Intro to the Rolex GMT Master
T he Rolex GMT Master model is a legendary design that has long captivated collectors and enthusiasts alike, incorporating both the vintage Rolex GMT Master introduced in 1952 and the later Rolex GMT Master II released in 1982. Originally designed for pilots to display two time zones simultaneously, hence the distinctive bi-colour 24-hour bezel, the Rolex GMT Master has become an icon in the world of luxury watches. This article explores the top six selling Rolex GMT Master watches at Sotheby's, highlighting their unique features, provenance, and why they achieved such strong results at auction.
1. Rolex GMT Master Captain Warren Reference 6542 Circa 1958, 177,800 CHF
This Rolex GMT Master Reference 6542 was curated for auction in May 2023 and sold for 177,800 CHF. The model was created in 1958, belonged to Captain Clarence “Jooj” Warren Jr. and was sold by his family. Warren, recruited by Pan Am straight out of the military, became a Captain at 25. Known for his jet-setting lifestyle, Warren wore a Rolex GMT Master and drove a Porsche 356. The White House often requested him to transport the President and other officials. Notably, he flew President Eisenhower to Hawaii and Vice-President Nixon to Moscow in 1959.
This watch, seen in the iconic 1959 "Pan Am Flies on Rolex time" advert, was given to Warren by Rolex before his Moscow flight. It featured a luminous Bakelite bezel, black gloss dial with luminous hour markers, and a red Rolex GMT Master hand. Preserved in original condition, it became a top-tier collector's dream. Of the 605 pieces imported to the US, few exist in noteworthy condition. The combination of rarity, provenance, and condition made this watch a highly attractive Rolex GMT Master example for collectors.
2. Rolex GMT Master Bakelite Reference 6542 Circa 1956, 1,500,000 HKD
This Rolex GMT Master Bakelite Reference 6542 sold for 1,500,000 HKD October 2018. The model intrigued collectors with its unique attributes. Its dial featured the red signature of the Rolex GMT Master, a longer Mercedes hour hand known as the 'swan neck,' and a matte finish possibly resulting from radiation burn due to the luminous indexes and bezel. The Bakelite insert was in excellent condition with minor cracks, and the aging of the calibrated bezel matched the lume and hands, which turned golden brown.
The case was crisp with strong bevels, and the original guarantee and presentation box were intact. Considered a prototype Rolex GMT with a Bakelite bezel from 1955 to 1956, this watch was in incredible condition. Indeed, there is an almost identical watch highlighted in the "100 Superlative Rolex Watches" mobile app by John Goldberger. The rarity and exceptional condition of this timepiece made it a significant find for collectors.
3. Rolex GMT Master II Reference 116759SA Circa 2014, 138,600 CHF
This Rolex GMT Master II Reference 116759SA achieved 138,600 CHF in November 2021 during Sotheby’s Important Watches sale in Geneva. Rolex launched the exceptional white gold and gemstone-set versions of the Rolex GMT-Master II in 2007. The Rolex GMT Master II Reference 116759SA, adorned with diamonds and blue sapphires, was entirely made of 18k white gold. It featured a diamond and sapphire-set rotating bezel and a fully pavé diamond-set dial. Offered for the first time at auction by its original owner, it came in attractive condition with a Rolex guarantee and presentation case.
The watch was powered by the cal. 3186 automatic movement with 31 jewels and had a 40 mm case. The diamond-set Rolex Oyster bracelet and folding clasp added to its luxurious appeal. The combination of white gold, diamonds, and sapphires made this Rolex GMT-Master II a standout piece in any collection.
4. Rolex GMT Master II Reference 116758SARU Circa 2018, 1,071,000 HKD
During Sotheby’s Fine Watches sale in Hong Kong, this Rolex GMT Master II Reference 116758SARU sold for 1,071,000 HKD, exceeding its high estimate of 500,000 HKD. One year after introducing the new style Rolex GMT-Master II Reference 116718, Rolex expanded the collection with three gem-set variations: the 116718 SA, SANR, and the present SARU. The Reference 116758SARU Rolex GMT-Master II, made of 18k yellow gold, featured a black dial and was powered by the cal. 3186 automatic movement with 31 jewels. The 40 mm case had a screw-down case back, and the watch came with an 18k yellow gold Rolex Oyster bracelet and folding clasp. This model, circa 2008, included a Rolex Certificate, instruction manual, and presentation box.
The 24-hour revolving bezel has been enhanced with baguette-cut sapphires, rubies, and diamonds. The luxurious combination of gemstones and yellow gold made this Rolex GMT-Master II a highly desirable piece. The overall condition and the exclusive design added to its value and appeal.
5. Rolex GMT Master II Reference 116758SANR Circa 2014,1,008,000 HKD
This Rolex GMT Master II Reference 116758SANR achieved 1,008,000 HKD in July 2022. This model was similarly made of 18k yellow gold, featured a black dial and was powered by the cal. 3186 automatic movement with 31 jewels. The 40 mm case completed the watch piece via the 18k yellow gold Rolex Oyster bracelet and folding clasp. This model, circa 2014, included a Rolex Garantie International, instruction manual, and presentation box.
The watch is distinguished from the aforementioned model by its diamond and black sapphire-set bezel. The luxurious materials and the sophisticated design made this Rolex GMT-Master II a sought-after piece for collectors.
6. Rolex GMT Master II Reference 116758SARU Circa 2007, 126,000 CHF
The Rolex GMT Master II Reference 116758SARU was curated for auction in May 2022 and sold for 126,000 CHF. Similar to the previous lot, it featured a 40 mm case made of 18k yellow gold and was adorned with diamonds, sapphires, and rubies. It was powered by the cal. 3186 automatic movement with 31 jewels. The distinction between both lots exists in their respective years of creation, with the present lot manufactured c. 2007.
The watch included a black dial, diamond-set case, and a 24-hour revolving bezel with baguette-cut sapphires, rubies, and diamonds. It came with an 18k yellow gold Rolex Oyster bracelet and folding clasp, and was offered in attractive condition alongside a Rolex warranty card. The luxurious combination of gemstones and yellow gold made this GMT-Master II a striking watch that saw a strong reception at auction.
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