The Rolex Day Date: Revisiting Rare Designs from the Sotheby's Archive

The Rolex Day Date: Revisiting Rare Designs from the Sotheby's Archive

One of the most recognizable designs in watchmaking, the Rolex Day Date offers collectors a range of rare and storied examples to choose from. Sotheby's global network of Rolex specialists have sold many such examples, and in this guide we explore five standout references.
One of the most recognizable designs in watchmaking, the Rolex Day Date offers collectors a range of rare and storied examples to choose from. Sotheby's global network of Rolex specialists have sold many such examples, and in this guide we explore five standout references.

I ntroduced in 1956, the Rolex Day Date, also known as the Rolex Presidential, has since become a core part of the Rolex line-up. While maintaining its iconic design cues, a variety of rare and highly-prized iterations have been created. From exclusive Stella dials to pieces with unique regional insignias, the Rolex Day Date continues to be a coveted collector’s item. This article explores five rare Rolex Day Date references from the Sotheby's archive, each distinguished by unique characteristics that were prized by collectors.

Rolex Day Date Stella Reference 18078, Circa 1979, 336,000 HKD

Rolex Day Date Stella Reference 18078, Circa 1979

This Rolex Day Date Stella Reference 18078 was sold for 336,000 HKD in October 2024 as part of Sotheby’s Important Watches I auction.

Crafted in 1979, this model represented one of the most vibrant and captivating versions within the Rolex Day Date family. The striking blue lacquered Stella dial was adorned with diamond-set hour markers, which combined with its 18k yellow gold construction offered a perfect blend of opulence and style. The Stella dials were introduced by Rolex between the 1970s and early 1990s. Such dials have since become rare treasures among the Rolex collectors. This particular example, with its exquisite condition and rare dial, saw a very strong reception at audience, reflected in the price achieved.

Rolex Day Date Reference 1803, Circa 1975, 406,400 HKD

Rolex Day Date Reference 1803, Circa 1975

This Rolex Day Date Reference 1803 was sold for 406,400 HKD in April 2023 as part of Sotheby’s Important Watches I sale.

Crafted in 1975, this Rolex watch showcased a bold green Stella dial with a stepped exterior minute track, commonly known as a pie-pan dial. The vivid green hue of the dial was paired with the 18k yellow gold case to create a daring aesthetic. The Spanish day and date display added to the uniqueness of this piece, making it even more intriguing to collectors who appreciate rare dials and regional variations of the Rolex Day Date.

The 36 mm case size was complemented by a black leather strap, both of which added a touch of conservatism to an otherwise audacious design among the universe of Rolex watches. The Rolex Presidential Reference 1803 holds a significant place in the Rolex catalog, remaining highly collectible.

Rolex Day Date Royal Khanjar Reference 18038, Circa 1983, 22,860 GBP

Rolex Day Date Royal Khanjar Reference 18038

This Rolex Day Date Royal Khanjar Reference 18038 was sold for 22,860 GBP in September 2023 as part of Sotheby’s Fine Watches sale in London.

Produced circa 1983, the above Rolex Day Date offered a striking example of the longstanding Rolex association with royalty. This version featured a champagne dial prominently displaying the Royal Khanjar insignia and signifying its connection to Oman’s royal family. Watches bearing this emblem were often commissioned as gifts or special editions, since making them highly sought after by collectors for both their rarity and historical significance.

Powered by the reliable Caliber 3055 automatic movement, the Rolex Presidential Reference 18038 was housed in the traditional Rolex Day Date pairing of a 36 mm 18k yellow gold case and matching bracelet. The watch also included accessories such as spare bracelet links, service correspondence, and a leather pouch, adding to its collectibility.

Rolex Day Date Reference 228206, Circa 2018, 214,200 CHF

Rolex Day Date Reference 228206, Circa 2018

This Rolex Day Date Reference 228206 was sold for 214,200 CHF in May 2022 as part of Sotheby’s Important Watches: Part I sale in Geneva.

This Rolex Day Date example stands out not only for its use of platinum, but also for its highly rare Eastern-Arabic dial that further enhanced its desirability among the most sophisticated of Rolex watch collectors.

This example was accompanied by a full set, including the original box, papers, and various accessories. The platinum case, coupled with the unique dial, made this Rolex Day Date a standout piece, offering a blend of cultural significance and opulence.

Rolex Day Date Reference 18388, Circa 1988, 57,150 CHF

Rolex Day Date Reference 18388, Circa 1988

The Rolex Day Date Reference 18388 was sold for 57,150 CHF in May 2023 as part of Sotheby’s Important Watches: Part I sale in Geneva.

Hailing from 1988, the above Rolex Day Date was daring in its use of yellow gold and diamond-set features. The watch featured a semi-skeletonized gilt diamond-set lace dial, showcasing the brand's meticulous attention to detail and craftsmanship. The 36 mm case was adorned with diamonds, which alongside the yellow gold Jubilee bracelet elevated the watch as a statement piece. This particular Rolex Day Date was a highly sought-after example among Day Date enthusiasts. with it serving as an illustration of Rolex's willingness to turn the dial up on extravagance and create a piece that blurs the lines between fine jewelry and high watchmaking.

Powered by the Caliber 3155 automatic movement, this model also included a screw-down case back to ensure its durability. The accompanying Rolex service warranty card from 2018 further emphasizes its well-maintained condition.

The Rolex Day Date continues to stand as a symbol of prestige, exclusivity, and craftsmanship. From vibrant Stella dials to royal insignias and rare Arabic scripts, these five examples from the Sotheby's archive showcase the diversity and rarity that have made the Rolex Day Date a coveted collector's item. Whether crafted in yellow gold or platinum, each model tells a story of cultural significance and technical mastery. As Rolex continues to innovate, the Rolex Presidential remains a testament to the brand’s enduring legacy and its place in horological history.


Source Your Next Rolex Day Date Watch

Sotheby's is on hand to support as a trusted partner for selling or purchasing both vintage and modern Rolex Day Date models. Our specialists have brought to market a diverse range of Rolex Presidential timepieces, including rare designs and those offering everyday wear-ability. Work with Sotheby's Rolex specialists and in doing so become part of our community of passionate watch enthusiasts and collectors.

Trust our worldwide network of leading Rolex specialists from a globally renowned auction house with a 280-year history.

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