The Rich History and Glamour of the Tiara
Discover how the crowns of ancient civilizations evolved into modern day jeweled masterpieces.
Brief History of Tiaras
Tiaras have a long and rich history, dating back thousands of years. Their origins trace to ancient civilizations of Greece, Egypt, and Rome. Rulers and deities wore simple diadems or headbands as symbols of power, divinity, and status. These early forms of tiaras were crafted from metals like gold and adorned with precious stones, signifying the wearer’s rank and authority. The ancient Greeks decorated statues of their gods, heroes and victorious athletes with wreaths of laurel leaves, either in plant form or transformed into gold. Roman rulers and high-ranking officials would also wear these sacred symbols of honor at weddings and banquets just as those in lofty positions do today, and their forms borrowed from nature still endure, such as the laurel leaf and wheat sheaf, the honeysuckle, the rose, and the lily.
In Europe, tiaras gained prominence during the Middle Ages and Renaissance as crowns or diadems worn by royalty. By the 18th and 19th centuries, the tiara evolved into a highly ornate and fashionable accessory for aristocratic women, often seen at court events and formal occasions. The 18th century painting by Jean-Baptiste Greuze depicts a Roman maiden kneeling under Cupid, the god of desire and affection. In return, she receives a floral diadem that symbolizes the crowning of love.
The rise of jewelers like Cartier and Fabergé in the 19th and early 20th centuries transformed tiaras into masterpieces of craftsmanship, combining diamonds, pearls, and other gemstones in intricate designs. In 2022, Sotheby's sold a Cartier Tiara from the 1930s for almost $500,000. This Cartier diamond tiara from the 1930s was originally owned by the late Lady Smith, wife of Sir John Smith. He was a well-known banker and philanthropist who was prominent for many decades in heritage organisations which were dedicated to saving outstanding British architecture.
Today, tiaras are still closely associated with royalty and nobility, often worn by queens, princesses, and brides during significant ceremonies and weddings. They symbolize elegance, heritage and a link to tradition and royal splendor.
The most established design styles within the tiara genre, including Napoleonic Empire, Romantic Naturalism, Belle Epoque, Art Deco, Modern and Contemporary designs.
The Spencer Tiara
The Spencer Tiara is one of the most famous tiaras in modern history since it was worn by Diana, Princess of Wales, on her wedding day in 1981. The tiara is reported to have been created originally in 1767 for Viscountess Montagu and remodelled by Garrard in the 1930s. The central motif was purportedly gifted by Lady Sarah Spencer to Viscountess Althorp, the grandmother of Princess Diana. In 1919, more motifs were added to result in the current design. In the mid-1970s, John Spencer, the 8th Earl Spencer, inherited the tiara. It was subsequently worn by all three of his daughters at their wedding: Lady Jane in 1978; Lady Sarah in 1980; and finally Lady Diana the following year, in 1981. The tiara was most recently worn by Celia McCorquodale - niece of the 9th Earl Spencer Charles - at her wedding in the Spring of 2018. The Spencer Tiara remains in the possession of the Spencer family.
As with so many precious pieces of jewelry, the Spencer Tiara is a combination of earlier jewels brought together into a delicate and harmonious series of running scrolls, interspersed with star and trumpet-shaped flowers. The tiara’s symbolism speaks for itself with the heart-shaped scrolls and flowers can only mean love. The flowing garland design is utterly timeless, making this a piece that transcends its famous outings.
Favorite Tiaras of 2024 So Far
As we head into the final few months of 2024, we wanted to highlight a few of our favorite tiaras sold at auction this year. During the Geneva Magnificent and Noble Jewels sale, we sold a Chaument diamond tiara from 1960 for 241,300 CHF. The tiara has a graduated fringe design, set with circular-cut diamonds, embellished with a line of channel-set baguette and old cushion-shaped diamonds, accented by square diamonds.
The tiara was formerly in the Collection of Anne Gunning Parker, Lady Nutting (1929-1990). Anne Gunning Parker (1929-1990) was a renowned British-Irish fashion model of the 1950s. She was born in Southern Rhodesia to parents related to the Dukes of Hamilton. In the early 1950s, she became a house model for the Irish designer Sybil Connolly and, in August 1953, modelled a Connolly ensemble on the cover of Life Magazine. She frequently collaborated with photographer Norman Parkinson for Vogue, most notably for a series of fashion photographs shot on location in India.
In 1961, Anne Gunning married the British diplomat and Member of Parliament Sir Harold Anthony Nutting, third Baronet Tiverton (1920-1999). He had served in the cabinets of Winston Churchill and Anthony Eden. The Nutting family furthermore owned estates in Scotland and England. After retiring from politics, Sir Nutting was active as an author and lecturer.
This elegant diamond tiara was created by Chaumet in 1960, later it became part of the collection of Sir and Lady Nutting. In fact, Lady Nutting had modelled a Chaumet tiara of similar design in a photo by Henry Clarke published in the May 1953 edition of Vogue France which focused on the upcoming coronation of Queen Elizabeth II later that year.
Our other favorite diamond tiara sold for 192,000 GBP and is from the 19th century. The diamond tiara is designed as an openwork series of scrolling trefoil motifs, slightly graudating in size from the center, decorated with stylized floral clusters and seven strawberry leaves, set throughout with cushion-shaped, circular- and rose-cut diamonds. This impressive tiara was assembled to resemble the renowned Poltimore Tiara which was famously owned by HRH, The Princess Margaret (1930 - 2002).
Upcoming Tiaras
There are two tiaras available for auction in the Hong Kong Magnificent Jewels sale that opens for bidding Oct 2.
A pearl and diamond tiara is being offered no reserve with an estimate of 150,000 to 300,000 HKD or about $20,000 to $40,000. The graduated scroll motifs set with brilliant-cut diamonds, framing fourteen baroque pearls is both bridal and an elegant addition to a gala gown.
A more dramatic diamond tiara available in the Hong Kong sale is a garland design, set with old European- and single-cut diamonds, suspending eleven pear-shaped diamonds. The estimate is 450,000 to 600,000 HKD or about $60,000 to $80,000.
Don't miss the Royal and Noble Jewels sale in Geneva on November 11th for more rare and elegant jewelry creations including more tiaras. Learn more about the most expensive tiaras sold in 2023 here.
Buying and Selling Tiaras at Sotheby's
Sotheby's often has rare and exceptional tiaras available at auction especially in its Royal and Noble Jewels sales. You can expect to find tiaras with exceptional provenance and high quality craftsmanship. Tiaras are perfect for your wedding, next gala or other important event. Sotheby's can also source tiaras from our global supplier network. A salon specialist would be happy to assist if you would like to arrange to have a tiara sourced to view in person.
- Explore upcoming jewelry at auctions in New York, London, Switzerland, Paris, and Hong Kong.
- Speak to a Salon Associate in New York, Zurich or Hong Kong to schedule an appointment.
- Speak to a Jewelry Specialist about selling a jeweled tiara.
Trust our worldwide network of leading jewelry specialists from a globally renowned auction house with a 280-year history.
