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P erpetual calendar watches represent the pinnacle of mechanical watchmaking in their ability to demonstrate both technical mastery and aesthetic harmony.
With the functionality to automatically adjust for the varying lengths of months and leap years, the perpetual calendar complication is among the most coveted by collectors of high horology.
A number of brands at the forefront of fine watchmaking have drawn upon the perpetual calendar for their high complication models. Here we explore five standout perpetual calendar watches from the Sotheby’s archives.
This remarkable Patek Philippe Reference 1518 sold for 9,570,900 USD in December 2021, significantly exceeding its high estimate of 2,200,000 USD.
Patek Philippe holds a prominent place in the history of the perpetual calendar watch, having been the first brand to serially produce them. The Patek Philippe Reference 1518 was launched in 1941 as a groundbreaking model, not only for Patek Philippe but for the entire fine watchmaking industry. It was the world’s first perpetual calendar chronograph to be produced in series, setting a new standard for complicated watches. This model has become a symbol of the brand’s technical excellence and timeless design aesthetic.
This particular example of the Patek Philippe Reference 1518 was one of the rarest configurations, with only 58 known examples. Even more extraordinary, it featured a matching pink dial to its pink gold case, a combination seen in just 14 examples to date.
This perpetual calendar watch was originally owned by Prince Tewfik Adil Toussoun of Egypt, a descendant of Egyptian royalty. Purchased in 1951, the watch remained in the Prince’s possession until his passing.
Remarkably preserved, the watch had seen very little wear, having spent most of its life in a safety deposit box. Adding to its historical significance, the watch arrived at auction complete with its original Certificate of Origin, operating instructions, and Patek Philippe presentation case.
This Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Quantième Perpetuel sold for 330,200 CHF in November 2023.
The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak has become one of the most recognizable and sought-after models in fine watchmaking. In 1984, the brand added a new dimension to the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak collection by introducing the perpetual calendar complication.
The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Quantième Perpetuel, was a testament to the brand’s innovation, featuring an ultra-thin case that housed one of the thinnest perpetual calendar movements ever produced.
This perpetual calendar reference, produced between 1984 and 1992, was an especially rare and highly coveted piece as one of only 223 examples made in yellow gold. The black dial version added a striking contrast to the gold case and bracelet, which when punctuated with the moonphase wheel made it one of the most desirable configurations.
The absence of a leap year indicator further emphasized the watch’s rarity, with the feature only introduced in later models.
This A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Reference 740.056FE sold for 2,540,000 HKD in April 2024, exceeding its high estimate of 2,000,000 HKD.
A. Lange & Söhne has long been renowned for its precision and craftsmanship, and its approach to the perpetual calendar is no exception. Introduced in 2016, the Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon combined some of the most complex watchmaking feats: a perpetual calendar, flyback chronograph, and tourbillon. The movement, visible through the sapphire crystal case back, showcased the brand’s expertise in creating intricate mechanisms that are as beautiful as they are functional.
This 2021 limited edition perpetual calendar watch, with only 100 pieces produced, featured a white gold case paired with a salmon-colored dial—a first for the brand. The warm hue of the dial contrasted elegantly with the cool white gold case, offering both technical mastery and modern aesthetic appeal. The addition of a tourbillon set this watch apart from other perpetual calendars, making it a remarkable blend of traditional craftsmanship and cutting-edge watchmaking.
This Audemars Piguet Reference 26585CE.OO.1225CE.01 sold for 302,400 USD in December 2022.
Audemars Piguet's innovation in perpetual calendars was exemplified once again in this 2019 Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Openworked. This model combined the avant-garde aesthetic of skeletonization with the technical prowess of perpetual calendar functionality. The open-worked dial revealed the intricate workings of the 374-component Caliber 5135 movement.
The case and bracelet of this perpetual calendar watch were crafted entirely in black ceramic, a material known for its durability, lightness, and scratch resistance. This contemporary material choice, combined with the traditional perpetual calendar complication, made this Audemars Piguet watch a perfect fusion of past and present.
The skeletonized version quickly became one of the most coveted Audemars Piguet Royal Oak perpetual calendar models, underscoring the brand’s continued leadership in both fine watchmaking design and technical innovation.
This Vianney Halter Antiqua Pink Gold Perpetual Calendar watch sold for 277,200 USD in December 2022 during Sotheby's Important Watches sale in New York.
The Vianney Halter Antiqua represented a radical departure from traditional watch design. Introduced in 1998 as the brand’s first watch, this creation was part of the Futur Antérieur collection, which combined a retro-futuristic aesthetic with advanced horological complications.
Halter, a member of the independent watchmaking scene, was known for challenging conventional design. The Vianney Halter Antiqua watch’s asymmetrical case and porthole-style subdials certainly reflected that ethos.
The perpetual calendar complication was displayed across multiple subdials, each with their own distinctive layout. The intricate details of the dial, which were hand-engraved and filled with black resin, highlight the craftsmanship involved in each watch. With only a handful of pieces produced each year, the Vianney Halter Antiqua Perpetual Calendar watch was a rare and highly collectible model. This pink gold example was in pristine condition and came complete with all original accessories, making it a true collector’s piece.
At Sotheby’s our watch experts have brought a wide range of extraordinary perpetual calendar watches to market, making us well placed to advise on the sale or acquisition of a watch. Work with Sotheby's specialists and in doing so be part of our community of passionate watch enthusiasts and collectors.
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