The Most Iconic and Collectible Hermès Bag: The Birkin Bag
Learn everything about collecting the Birkin Bag.
The Most Iconic and Collectible Hermès Bag: The Birkin Bag
While the Hermès Kelly bag has a longer history, the Hermès Birkin bag is the most iconic and collectible. It remains the most sought-after by celebrities and the luxury handbag-obsessed collector. The Hermès bag’s design is a collaboration between Jane Birkin and Hermès CEO Jean-Louis Dumas. The two met on a flight from Paris to London in 1984. Birkin confided in Dumas that she lacked a purse with appropriate functionality for her fast-paced lifestyle. Out of this conversation, the Birkin 40 in chic calfbox leather was born. The Birkin bag's practical design featuring two rolled handles, a flap top, clou “feet,” and a lock closure continues to resonate today.
The Birkin bag remains the most coveted Hermès bag thanks to its signature Hermès craftsmanship and exclusivity. The Birkin bag takes expert artisans a minimum of 18 hours to create and is marked with a code that identifies its year of creation, the workshop it was crafted in, and the artisan who made it. To buy a Birkin directly from Hermès, customers must have a purchase history with the brand. Hermès only allows boutiques to purchase a select number of Birkins on a bi-annual basis and the style of Birkin bag delivered to boutiques is rarely known ahead of time. As a result, customers must either make do with the available Birkin bag or patiently wait for the style they want to become available. Alternatively buyers can buy a Birkin Bag on a reputable marketplace like Sotheby's. Sotheby's has a selection of the most desirable Birkin Bags in leather and exotic materials. Additionally a Sotheby's Handbag Specialist is able to source a Birkin Bag in a desired color, size and material.
Birkin bags range in price from $9,000 for a Birkin 25 in Togo leather to over $200,000 for a crocodile and diamond Birkin from Hermès. On the secondary market, a pristine Birkin in leather generally sells for multiples of the boutique price depending on the condition, size, material and color. The Birkin is the most searched for bag of all Hermès bags by a factor of over 6x.
Birkin Collecting Guide
While every Birkin collection is personal and no two collections will look exactly the same, our specialists have provided suggestions on must haves and how to build your ultimate Birkin collection.
Basic Black Birkin
Almost every collection starts with a black Togo leather Birkin bag with either gold or palladium hardware. The most popular size globally is the Birkin 30 but the most searched for bag is the Birkin 25. When building a Birkin collection, most buyers have a size that is their primary preference and makes up most of their collection and a size used less frequently. Togo leather is the most popular leather due to its durability but Epsom is also popular. Hermès also created a more structured Sellier Birkin with the stitching on the outside of the bag versus the more traditional Retourne or more relaxed Birkin. Many collectors that have the classic Retourne Birkin in Black Togo are also adding a Sellier Black Birkin to their collection in either Epsom, Box or Madame leather.
While the Birkin 35 isn't as popular as the smaller Birkin 25 and 30, it is large enough to hold a lap top. A black Birkin 35 in Togo leather is a durable enough to be a daily commuter or work bag. A black Birkin 40 is generally too large for most collectors as a daily bag but it is a good weekend travel bag. Some men also prefer a black Birkin 35 or black Birkin 40 as an everyday bag. A basic black Birkin in leather is a must have for any Hermès Birkin collector and many collectors have multiple black Birkin bags for different purposes.
Pink Birkin
Collectors love pastel pinks from Hermès and often seek out the newest pale pink hue released by the brand. Hermès Pinks are among the brand’s most popular colors, though there can be material disparities between the popularity and value of various shades of pink. The lighter shades of pink continue to be the most popular with buyers and collectors. Bright pinks are generally less desirable with collectors. The secondary market value of the most popular light pink shades sell at faster velocity and at a higher premium relative to retail. The most popular pastel pink colors from Hermès are 5P Bubblegum, Rose Sakura and Mauve Sylvestre. In 2020, Sotheby's sold a 5P Bubblegum Pink Birkin 30 for $47,500. Another shade of pink that has held its popularity is Rose Sakura. In 2022, Sotheby’s sold a Rose Sakura Bikin 25 in Swift leather with a 2021 date stamp for about $65,000. Rose Confetti, a pink introduced in 2014, has also proven popular over the years. The latest light pink from Hermès is Mauve Sylvestre, and is already popular with buyers. Resale prices for this newest light pink are exceeding all other shades. Mauve Pale introduced in 2022 and Rose Darling introduced in 2024 are the latest pale pinks from Hermès that are likely to join the list of must have pink Birkin bags. Prices for the newest Hermès pinks tend to peak on the secondary market within 12 months of being released and then stabilize but still sell at a premium to less popular colors.
Classic Neutral Birkin
Another collector must have is a leather Birkin in one of Hermès classic neutral hues. The must have neutrals are Etoupe, Gold and an Hermès white like Beton, Nata or Craie. While Hermès releases new colors every season, variations on its neutrals are the most sought after by collectors. After black, gold is the second most popular color. Gold in the world of Hermès does not have any metallic aspects like the Gold used to plate Hermès hardware, rather this Gold is meant to evoke the warmth and color of its namesake metal.
Exotic Birkin
Once an Hermès collector has started to add the key leather bags to their collection, the next Birkin to consider is a bag in an exotic material. Hermès makes Birkins in Ostrich, Lizard, Crocodile and Alligator. The most popular and desirable exotic Birkins for collectors is either Alligator or Crocodile. Starting with a Black Crocodile or Alligator Birkin is the most popular first exotic Birkin. The options for a black Alligator or Crocodile Birkin include Shiny or Matte finish and either Retourne or Sellier with hardware being a personal style preference or a variation for a second exotic black Birkin if you like both metals.
Himalayan Birkin
Once a Birkin collector has added a few exotic bags to their collection, the Hermès Himalayan Birkin often gets added to their wishlist. Only the most dedicated collectors even knew about the Himalayan Birkin before Jean-Paul Gaultier sent a Himalayan Birkin down the Hermès’ spring runway in 2010. From that moment on the Himalayan Birkin was the bag to have. While the Himalayan Birkin is available in 35, 30 and 25, most collectors want the 30 or 25 size. The Himalayan Birkin retails for about $65,000 while resale prices generally exceed $150,000 depending on the condition and date stamp.
Faubourg Birkin "House Birkin"
The Hermès Faubourg Birkin or "House Birkin" is one of the most sought-after limited edition Birkin bags for the most dedicated Birkin collector. This Birkin Bag was released in 2019 as an homage to the Hermès storefront on Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré in Paris. Hermès CEO Charles-Émile Hermès relocated the brand’s flagship store to the iconic street in 1880, where it has remained ever since. The Hermès handbag features three windows with orange awnings, a shopping bag clochette, a matte alligator skin top flap, and alligator skin handles. This tiny 20 centimeter Birkin was first introduced in 2019 and now comes in five variations in leather and alligator and one variation in all leather called the Faubourg Birkin Disco.
Why are Birkins So Expensive?
1. Craftsmanship: Every Birkin bag is hand crafted by a single trained artisan and requires a minimum of 18 hours to complete. Artisans are trained for five years so they can master every element of making the bag including leather cutting, stitching and assembly.
2. Limited Supply: Even the best Hermès customers can not walk into a boutique and pick from a selection of Birkin bags. The available supply is limited due to number of trained artisans and the time required to train new artisans.
3. Quota System: Hermès has a quota limit in place for its most popular bags including the Birkin, Kelly and Constance. Clients can only purchase two quota bags per year.
4. Market Demand: There are over 1.3 million monthly searches for the Birkin every month. The Birkin remains an icon in the fashion world, highly sought-after by celebrities, top luxury buyers and the bag-obsessed.
5. Secondary Market Premium: While the retail price of the most popular Birkin 30 in Togo leather of $12,500 is at the high end of luxury bags, the secondary market premium is the highest of any brand. A pristine Togo leather Birkin 30 sells for between $25,000 to $30,000 at Sotheby's.
Advantages to Collecting Birkins on the Secondary Market
1. Access
Sotheby's is able to provide access to a curated selection of Birkin bags from its long established global network of sellers. Sotheby's is a leading global marketplace that offers pristine Birkin bags in the most popular colors, materials and sizes along with rare Himalayan and Limited Edition Birkin bags. Our handbag specialists are always sourcing the most desirable Birkin bags from collectors around the world. Sotheby's also sells incredible private collections that include one of a kind HSS Birkins.
2. Flexibility
Sotheby's provides multiple ways to purchase Birkin bags including auction, online and in person in New York, Hong Kong, Zurich, Paris and London. Sotheby's also offers a concierge service if you need assistance sourcing a specific Birkin bag that isn't available at auction or online.
3. Value
While Birkin bags in pristine condition sell at a premium to retail, Sotheby's has bags for purchase at auction and marketplace in a range of the most desirable colors and materials. Unfortunately the available bags at Hermès is extremely limited. It could be months and even years before you can purchase a Birkin in your preferred color, size and material. While we encourage you to build a relationship with an Hermès Sales Associate, it could time to be offered your preferred Birkin bags. Sotheby's has a curated assortment available at auction and online so you can get your next wish list Birkin faster.
4. Discovery
One of the best parts of a global luxury marketplace is discovering unique one of a kind Birkins or rare limited edition bags that are no longer available at Hermès. Sotheby's curated selection changes regularly and each auction has a unique selection of Birkin bags. You are likely to discover something new to you from Hermès.
Buying and Selling an Hermès Birkin at Sotheby's
Sotheby's can assist with buying or selling your next Hermès Birkin. Sotheby's handbag auctions always feature rare and collectible Birkin bags. We also have a carefully curated selection of Birkin bags in pristine and excellent condition, available for immediate shipping. Expect to find the most popular Hermès Birkins in leather and exotic materials, new colors with 2024 date stamps, classic neutrals in all sizes and rare limited edition bags. We accept Birkin bags for consignment at auction and marketplace. Prices for Birkin bags range from $20,000 to $35,000 for leather while exotic Birkin bags are generally priced at $40,000 plus with Himalaya Birkin bags priced over $100,000.
- Browse Hermès Birkin available for immediate delivery.
- Explore upcoming handbag auctions across the globe.
- Speak to a Salon Associate in New York, Zurich, London, Paris, or Hong Kong to schedule an appointment.
- Contact a Handbag Specialist about selling an Hermès Birkin bag.
Trust our worldwide network of leading handbag specialists from a globally renowned auction house established in 1744.
