The Independent Watchmaker in the Modern Market

I n the world of haute horlogerie, where the crafting of timepieces is elevated to an art form, independent watchmakers have steadily emerged as the torchbearers of horological tradition and innovation. These artisans, encompassing a wide range of brands from those in modest workshops to full manufactures, have long kindled the soul of watchmaking, embodying centuries-long traditions through their craft.

In recent years, collectors and enthusiasts have grown an increasing affinity towards independent watchmakers, resulting in significant bidder activity at auction. Through utilising the Sotheby's archive, here we explore a select number of brands that form the 'independents', namely Philippe Dufour, FP Journe, Greubel Forsey, Kari Voutilainen, H. Moser & Cie., Laurent Ferrier, and Vianney Halter.

Philippe Dufour: The Revival of Independent Watchmaking

Philippe Dufour | Simplicity | A platinum wristwatch, Circa 2017 | 4,826,000 HKD

In a world dominated by mass-produced watches, the resurgence of independent watchmaking is akin to a renaissance. These master watchmakers often operate beyond the constraints of typical corporate influence or commercial pressures, allowing them to pour their passion, creativity, and expertise into crafting extraordinary timepieces that reflect their unique visions of mechanical art.

Among the luminaries of independent watchmaking stands Philippe Dufour, an understated legend in horology. Born into a lineage of watchmakers and working for renowned watch manufactures like Jaeger-LeCoultre and Audemars Piguet, Dufour's independent journey began with the meticulous restoration of antique timepieces, where he fostered a deep fascination for the intricate mechanisms concealed beneath their dials. This fascination evolved into a vocation, leading him to become one of the first true, modern independent watchmakers with the presentation of his first timepiece under his own name in 1992 via the Grande Sonnerie Wristwatch No. 1.

Among the numerous Philippe Dufour watches brought to market by Sotheby's is this particular Philippe Dufour Simplicity. This watch was sold during Important Watches sale in Hong Kong for 4,826,000 HKD.

The Philippe Dufour Simplicity represents a more recent creation from the master watchmaker. The timepiece’s original design was introduced in 2000, with the name of the watch and its aesthetic form following a principle of straightforwardness, while its mechanical complexity and master level of finishing provided for incredible depth and intrigue. This circa 2017 iteration was crafted in platinum with a white lacquer dial, blue Breguet hands, and a subtly recessed subsidiary dial for the running seconds. The watch represented a symphony of understated elegance and mechanical complexity, and chiefly, a piece of work by one of the most important living watchmakers of the modern era.

FP Journe: Pioneering Advancements in Materials

FP Journe, another luminary in the realm of independent watchmaking, consistently pushes the boundaries of innovation. After founding his own manufacturer in 1999 with the debut of the first generation of Tourbillon Souverain d'Egalité via the ‘Souscription’ watches, Journe quickly made a name for himself as a haute horlogerie innovator. Through these watches and the three other generations to follow, he heralded the introduction of a constant force remontoir within the wristwatch, presenting a timekeeping mechanism that could regulate the uneven force delivered by the mainspring. Journe's technical and creative brilliance in creating aesthetically interesting watches containing both a tourbillon and constant force remontoir shines through in his work.

Among the most iconic of FP Journe watches is the FP Journe Chronomètre Bleu. During Sotheby's Fine Watches in May 2024, this FP Journe Chronomètre Bleu sold for 57,600 GBP.

Meticulously crafted in tantalum, a material comparable in weight to platinum yet notoriously challenging to work with, this FP Journe watch showcases the maison's unwavering dedication to pushing boundaries. Tantalum is seldom used in watchmaking, but its employment brings forth exceptional hardness, remarkable wear-resistance, and a distinctively captivating blue hue. The case itself was a testament to FP Journe's pursuit of perfection, striking a harmonious balance between an extreme build quality and a sleek size suitable for a modern dress watch, boasting a 39 mm diameter and a slender case thickness ideal for everyday wear.

Greubel Forsey: Defying Gravity

Since the early dawn of timekeeping, gravity has posed an enduring challenge to watchmakers, with its effects on the changing physical position of a watch making consistent timekeeping a notably difficult barrier to overcome. Greubel Forsey, known for their innovative spirit, has boldly confronted this challenge since the dawn of their first wristwatches in 2004, then with the original Double Tourbillon 30°. That watch featured a namesake 30° inclined tourbillon cage that rotated once per minute within an additional tourbillon cage rotating every four minutes. The effort was not only visually stunning, but was produced with the intense aim of minimising gravitationally induced errors on the movement.

As part of Sotheby's Important Watches sale, this striking Greubel Forsey GMT sold for 2,159,000 HKD.

This Greubel Forsey watch continued on the founding history of the brand, featuring a 25° inclined tourbillon alongside a GMT complication, with the watch once more defying the relentless pull of gravity in a mesmerising display. The three-dimensional globe on the dial mimicked the Earth's rotation, while the world time display on the reverse added a layer of practicality. Encased in platinum with a pink gold dial, this limited edition Greubel Forsey watch was the epitome of the maison's meticulous craftsmanship and attention to detail.

Kari Voutilainen: Meticulous Craftsmanship in an Automated Age

In an age marked by mass production, Kari Voutilainen's workshop stands as a bastion of meticulous craftsmanship. Founded in 2002, the Finnish watchmaker has long been known for his handmade timekeepers, each visually and mechanically interesting, and all produced in extremely limited quantities.

Sotheby's sold this understated Kari Voutilainen Vingt-8 in 2023 through our Hong Kong Important Watches sale.

In the Vingt-8, one of Voutilainen’s most cherished creations is on display. Featuring a fully in-house construction, including a unique double escapement wheel architecture for heightened efficiency, the timepiece is a testament to tradition and artistry of the craft. The watch's blue dial showcases three distinct patterns, serving as a canvas for Voutilainen's unparalleled finishing skills. And with its platinum casing and signature tear-shaped lugs, the timepiece weaves together artistry and refinement in an understated dance of horological excellence.

H. Moser & Cie.: The Balance of Minimalism

H. Moser & Cie. has etched its legacy in horology since 1828, but it wasn’t until 2005 after being dormant for much of the 20th century when the founder’s great-grandson helped revive the brand that its modern place as an important independent watchmaker began. From its 21st century re-establishment onward, the brand has developed a reputation for highly limited timepieces that pair clean, richly coloured dials with simple straightforward design. In-turn their watches represent a balance of tasteful restraint that stands in contrast to what the brand might viewed as excessively complex timepieces which were particularly popular in the mid-2000s.

This superlative Venturer Tourbillon reference 2802-0205 achieved 1,524,000 HKD at Sotheby's Important Watches sale in October 2023.

The watch represented a true piece of art in wristwatch form, and continues the straightforward design legacy of the modern independent with a gem-set twist. The dial was meticulously adorned with pave-set gems, creating a captivating radial gradient reminiscent of a glistening sea. Around it, baguette-cut diamonds embellished the white gold case, fashioning a mesmerising spectacle on the wrist. An intricate tourbillon was positioned at six o'clock and served as a testament to H. Moser & Cie.'s technical ability, while a simple hour and minute timekeeping feature spoke to the modern legacy of the maker.

Laurent Ferrier: Crafting Excellence from the Inception

Laurent Ferrier's foray into watchmaking began in 2010 when he launched his eponymous brand. His inaugural creation, the Galet Classic Tourbillon Double Spiral, garnered accolades across the industry and set the stage for his brand's enduring success for the next decade and now more, with the watchmaker quickly having established a reputation for mechanical and aesthetic excellence.

As part of Sotheby's Important Watches sale , a piece unique edition of the Galet Classic Tourbillon Double Spiral sold for 762,000 HKD.

This circa 2013 model was originally produced for the famed Only Watch event of that year – a biennial charitable watch auction benefiting research on Duchenne muscular dystrophy. Making use of a steel case and salmon-tone enamel dial produced via a grand feu technique, the ultra-rare Laurent Ferrier watch was adorned with a dove on its dial, which serves as the motif for Only Watch. More delicate details, such as the painted coat of arms of Monaco on the sub-seconds dial, exemplify unwavering dedication of Laurent Ferrier to excellence and artistic flair.

Vianney Halter: A Steampunk Visionary in Creative Horology

Vianney Halter, a luminary in the realm of independent watchmaking, introduced the Antiqua in 1998 as the brand’s first wristwatch. Inspired by steampunk and a vision of the “future's past,” the watch incorporated themes from science fiction and fantasy, being both mechanically avant-garde and incredibly visually creative – themes which have continued to define the notable independent in the years to come.

Sotheby's sold this Vianney Halter Atiqua for 1,778,000 HKD in 2023, a notable outperformance versus the high estimate of 1,500,000 HKD.

Debuted at Basel Fair in 1998, the Antiqua was Vianney Halter's first wristwatch, inspired by the themes of steampunk and the "future's past". Designed with his former partner Jeff Barnes, it captivated the spirit of Jules Verne's vision and H. G. Wells' time machine.

The shape of this Vianney Halter watch took on an asymmetrical form unseen before, with the design using four portholes for the time, day, month, leap year and the date. The case itself was extraordinary, built out of almost 130 hand-finished parts including 104 rivets. While the Vianney Halter Antiqua is offered in various metals, this watch was encased in platinum. The dials of these remarkable watches are exclusively forged in rare metals, with this particular reference exhibiting a rare pink gold salmon dial.

Each of the independent watchmakers discussed, merge horological tradition, mechanical innovation, and in-the-know collectability for a symphony of craftsmanship and artistry. The creations from these brands continue to increasingly captivate collectors with their exceptional artistry and scarcity, marking an important era in contemporary watchmaking.

Buying and Selling Independent Watches at Sotheby's

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