Jewelry

The Five Most Expensive Van Cleef Rings

By Lydia Dokko
Shop Van Cleef Rings , Available for Immediate Purchase
Van Cleef Ring Kallima

Brief Background Van Cleef and Arpels

Van Cleef and Arpels is a French luxury jewelry company founded in 1895 and opened its first boutique in 1906. In 1999, Richemont acquired 60% of Van Cleef and increased its ownership to 80% in 2001. Richemont also owns 19 luxury brands including Cartier and Buccellati. Van Cleef is one of the most popular luxury jewelry designer brands with nearly 1.5M google searches per month. In 2023, Sotheby's sold over $20 million in Van Cleef jewelry with prices ranging from over $1 million to $5,000. "Signed jewels by the legendary maisons (including Van Cleef) continued to dazzle, as connoisseurs hunted particularly for iconic, vintage jewels that represented the best the great houses had to offer." Quig Bruning, SVP Head of Jewelry, Americas & EMEA.

Below we take a closer look at five of the most expensive Van Cleef rings sold in 2023 at Sotheby's.

Most Expensive Van Cleef Ring of 2023

1. Van Cleef Diamond Ring $2 million

The most expensive Van Cleef ring sold for $2 million in 2023 at Sotheby's. The Van Cleef ring set with a marquise-shaped diamond weighing 21.03 carats, flanked by two triangular-shaped diamonds, mounted in platinum. The Van Cleef ring's center stone is D Colour and Flawless. The center stone is further accompanied by a diamond type classification letter stating that the diamond is determined to be a Type IIa diamond. Type IIa diamonds are the most chemically pure type of diamond and often have exceptional optical transparency. The triangular-shaped diamonds on either side of the center stone are estimated to weigh approximately 3.5-4.0 carats, E-F colour, VVS-VS clarity.

Van Cleef Ring Emerald

2. Van Cleef Ring $990,600

The second most expensive Van Cleef ring sold for $990,600 in 2023 by Sotheby's. The Van Cleef ring has a center emerald cut emerald weighing 10.51 carats framed by round diamonds. The Van Cleef ring is platinum and 19 karat gold and from 1972. The emerald is medium tone, richly saturated slightly bluish green color, slightly included with inclusions clustered near the edges of the stone. The diamonds, stated to weigh a total of 3.16 carats, are approximately F-G color, VS clarity. Fitted with an inner sizing band. The emerald is of Classic Colombian origin, clarity enhancement: none and has an appendix letter attesting to the rarity and importance of the emerald.

Van Cleef Ring Yellow Diamond Mystery Set

3. Van Cleef Ring $975,000

The third most expensive Van Cleef ring sold for $975,000 in 2023 at Sotheby's. The unique and exquisite Van Cleef ring is named Kallima. The name 'Kallima' derives from a genus of butterflies native to South-East Asia. Kallima butterflies are notable for the brightly coloured top surface of their wings. The bottom surface of the wings display more muted colours, allowing the butterflies to ward of predators by closing their wings to masquerade as far less tempting oak leaves. The Van Cleef ring features a fancy vivid yellow diamond weighing 5.43 carats, the wings mystery-set with calibré-cut emeralds, accented by brilliant-cut and baguette diamonds. The Van Cleef Mystery Set was patented in 1933 and introduced a new way of setting precious stones that was designed to preserve their beauty. The stones are meticulously cut and individually inserted into gold rails. Van Cleef uses this setting for diamonds, rubies and also sapphires and emeralds. The yellow pear brilliant-cut diamond weighs 5.43 carats, measuring 14.52 x 10.27 x 5.63mm, is Fancy Vivid Yellow, Natural Colour, SI1 Clarity. Emeralds stated to weigh a total of 7.09 carats, vibrant green of strong saturation and of particularly fine clarity permitting for the mystery-set technique, no apparent chips which is especially noteworthy for emeralds. Remaining diamonds stated to weigh a total of 1.14 carats, on average F-G colour, VVS-VS clarity, as gauged and graded in the mount.

Van Cleef Diamond Ring

4. Van Cleef Ring Diamond $789,000

The fourth most expensive Van Cleef ring sold for $789,000 in 2023 at Sotheby's. The elegant Van Cleef diamond ring is set with a marquise-shaped diamond weighing 13.76 carats, between tapered baguette diamond shoulders. The center diamond is D Colour, VVS2 Clarity; together with a type IIa classification letter and a working diagram stating that the diamond might be internally flawless after minor repolishing.

Van Cleef Ring Diamond

5. Van Cleef Ring Diamond $406,400

The fifth most expensive Van Cleef ring sold for $406,400 in 2023 at Sotheby's. The Van Cleef diamond ring features a cut-cornered rectangular modified brilliant-cut diamond, set between two trapeze-cut diamonds. The center diamond 10.03 carats that is F color, VS2 clarity. The trapeze-cut accenting diamonds weigh a total of approximately 1.40 carats.

Buying and Selling Van Cleef & Arpels Rings At Sotheby's

While none of these incredible Van Cleef rings are available, Sotheby's often has impressive Van Cleef & Arpels rings available at auction. Sotheby's also has a curated selection of rare and collectible Van Cleef & Arpels rings available for immediate purchase on marketplace. If you would like to view a Van Cleef & Arpels ring, a salon specialist would be happy to assist. Sotheby's is also able to source rare and collectible Van Cleef & Arpels rings from its global supplier network.

  • Explore upcoming jewelry at auctions in New York, London, Switzerland, Paris, and Hong Kong.
  • Speak to a Salon Associate in New YorkZurich or Hong Kong to schedule an appointment.
  • Speak to a Jewelry Specialist about selling a Van Cleef & Arpels ring.

Trust our worldwide network of leading jewelry specialists from a globally renowned auction house with a 280-year history.

Stay informed with Sotheby’s top stories, videos, events & news.

Receive the best from Sotheby’s delivered to your inbox.

By subscribing you are agreeing to Sotheby’s Privacy Policy. You can unsubscribe from Sotheby’s emails at any time by clicking the “Manage your Subscriptions” link in any of your emails.

More from Sotheby's