The Five Most Expensive Van Cleef Necklaces

Brief Background Van Cleef and Arpels

Van Cleef & Arpels, the epitome of French luxury jewelry, has captivated collectors and connoisseurs since its founding in 1895 and the opening of its first boutique in 1906. Now under the ownership of Richemont—an empire of 19 luxury brands including Cartier and Buccellati—Van Cleef continues to reign as one of the most sought-after names in fine jewelry, boasting nearly 1.5 million Google searches every month.

In 2023, Sotheby’s achieved over $20 million in Van Cleef sales, with pieces ranging from $5,000 to over $1 million. As Quig Bruning, Senior Vice President and Head of Jewelry for the Americas & EMEA, remarked, “Signed jewels by the legendary maisons (including Van Cleef) continued to dazzle, as connoisseurs hunted particularly for iconic, vintage jewels that represented the best the great houses had to offer.”

In this article, we explore five of the most breathtaking and expensive Van Cleef necklaces sold at Sotheby’s since 2023.

1. Van Cleef Diamond 'Tie' Necklace $3,600,000

The Van Cleef Rare Diamond 'Tie' Necklace, sold for a record-breaking $3,600,000 in June 2024, stands as the most expensive Van Cleef & Arpels necklace ever sold at auction. Crafted circa 1929, the necklace features graduated diamond-set links with elongated, partially rotating tassel motifs, offering versatility in wear. With an internal circumference of 19¼ inches, it is signed “Van Cleef Arpels,” numbered Paris 33025, and marked with French assay stamps. This design exemplifies Van Cleef & Arpels’ mastery of Art Deco aesthetics, perfectly complementing the sleek, bias-cut gowns of the era and showcasing the maison’s innovative artistry.

Tie-necklaces, introduced by Van Cleef & Arpels during the late 1920s and early 1930s, were designed to accentuate bold evening fashions. These intricate, fabric-like pieces could be draped over shoulders or worn as a cravat, blending elegance with geometric precision. Rarely produced, such necklaces became iconic symbols of Art Deco jewelry and were favored by celebrities and featured in fashion magazines. This necklace, a dazzling representation of the maison's creative legacy, is a testament to its unmatched craftsmanship and enduring allure.

2. Van Cleef Necklace $2,172,300

The second most expensive Van Cleef Necklace sold for just over $2 million in 2023. The necklace has two detachable pendent brooches with carved emeralds, ruby heads, ruby beads topped by single-cut diamonds, highlighted with brilliant and rose-cut diamonds. The necklace also has onyx beads. set in white gold. The translucent pear-shaped carved emerald measures approximately 38.9 x 31.0 x 14.8 mm and is medium green color with strong saturation.

3. Van Cleef Necklace Mystery-Set Ruby & Diamond $673,100

The third most expensive Van Cleef necklace sold at Sotheby's for $673,100. The Van Cleef necklace features the Van Cleef Mystery-Set with Rubies and Diamonds and is from 1995. It features a series of graduated scroll motifs set with calibré-cut rubies, on a pavé-set diamond ground. Van Cleef necklace has rubies of medium red with strong saturation and slightly included with no readily apparent abrasions. The diamonds, estimated to weigh a total of approximately 60.00 to 70.00 carats, are approximately F-G color, VVS-VS clarity. The Van Cleef Mystery Set was patented in 1933 and introduced a new way of setting precious stones that was designed to preserve their beauty. The stones are meticulously cut and individually inserted into gold rails. Van Cleef uses this setting for diamonds, rubies and also sapphires and emeralds. This Van Cleef necklace was part of the Wolf Family Collection sold in 2023.

Van Cleef Necklace and Pair of Earrings — Van Cleef Sapphire and Diamond Pendant-Necklace and Pair of Earrings

4. Van Cleef Sapphire and Diamond Pendant-Necklace and Pair of Earrings $456,000

The fourth most expensive Van Cleef & Arpels necklace sold for $456,000 in June 2024. Designed circa 1950, the necklace features a line of graduated cushion-cut sapphires accented with old European-cut diamonds and suspends seven detachable drops of similar design. With an internal circumference of 14 inches, it is signed "Van Cleef & Arpels" and numbered N.Y. 3187. The sapphires, totaling approximately 300.00–330.00 carats, range from light to medium slightly violetish blue to violet, with the largest sapphire weighing approximately 22.15 carats.

The necklace, accompanied by a pair of unsigned earclips, is mounted in platinum and exhibits scratches and scuffs consistent with wear, yet remains in good condition. The earclips, measuring 1⅜ inches in length, complement the necklace’s elegant design. Weighing approximately 132 dwts in total, the necklace exemplifies Van Cleef & Arpels' mid-20th-century craftsmanship and timeless aesthetic.

5. Van Cleef Necklace and Pendant Earclips $444,500

The fifth most expensive Van Cleef necklace sold for $444,500 at Sotheby's in 2023. This Van Cleef necklace is composed of emerald bead links with foliate round diamond-set caps and flowerhead links set with ruby cabochons and round diamonds alternating with ruby cabochons. The Van Cleef earclips have round tops set with ruby and emerald beads and round diamonds suspending a pair of detachable drops with emerald and ruby beads, round emeralds and rubies and round diamonds. This Van Cleef jewelry set from 1965 represents the pinnacle of Van Cleef creative high notes from the 1960s. Van Cleef seized the opportunity to introduce a collection combining an ancient aesthetic with modern wearability. The emeralds and rubies represent powerful symbolism of good fortune, wisdom (green) and the essence of life itself (red). Drawing direct inspiration from the Mughal period and its predilection for gems cut en cabochon or as drilled beads, these sophisticated jewels featured authentic motifs and subtle details in common with those famed 16th-19th century works. The impressive scale and saturated color of the emerald beads in the necklace marries beautifully with the rich ruby cabochons set in classic floral motifs. The earrings continue the floral theme with a stylized pattern of intricate beadwork suspending modern pavé work centers atop classical bead drops, a seamless marriage of the old and the new.

Why is Van Cleef So Expensive?

Van Cleef & Arpels is renowned for its exceptional craftsmanship, rare materials, and timeless designs, making it one of the most prestigious jewelry houses in the world. Established in 1906, the brand has built a legacy of innovation, introducing signature techniques like the Mystery Set, which allows gemstones to be set without visible prongs. Each piece undergoes meticulous handcrafting, often requiring hundreds of hours of labor to achieve the maison’s signature level of artistry. Van Cleef’s use of the finest diamonds, emeralds, and sapphires further contributes to its exclusivity, with many pieces featuring gemstones of unparalleled quality and rarity. The brand’s association with royalty, celebrities, and collectors—along with limited production—drives immense demand, resulting in high prices and increasing value over time. Vintage and high-jewelry creations regularly achieve record-breaking auction results, reinforcing Van Cleef & Arpels’ status as a symbol of luxury and refinement.

Advantages to Buying Van Cleef & Arpels on the Secondary Market

1. Access

Sotheby’s provides exclusive access to a curated selection of Van Cleef & Arpels jewelry from its long established global network of sellers. As a leading marketplace, Sotheby's offers pristine Van Cleef & Arpels pieces in the most coveted designs and gemstones. Our jewelry specialists are dedicated to sourcing the most desirable Van Cleef & Arpels pieces from collectors around the world.

2. Flexibility

Sotheby’s offers multiple ways to purchase Van Cleef & Arpels jewelry, including online and in person at our locations in New York, Hong Kong, Zurich, Paris, and London. We also provide a concierge service to help source specific Van Cleef & Arpels pieces not available online.

3. Value

While Van Cleef & Arpels boutiques offer their iconic jewelry collections, finding specific designs, gemstones, or styles can sometimes be a challenge due to limited availability. Sotheby’s provides a curated selection of Van Cleef & Arpels pieces, including rare and sought-after designs, available for purchase without the need to visit a physical store. Shopping with Sotheby’s allows you to discover exceptional Van Cleef & Arpels jewelry, from vintage masterpieces to contemporary classics, all in one place. Whether you're searching for a timeless diamond engagement ring or a unique statement piece, Sotheby’s offers a seamless and efficient way to acquire the perfect Van Cleef & Arpelstreasure, saving you time while ensuring authenticity and quality.

4. Discovery

One of the greatest advantages of shopping in a global luxury marketplace is the chance to discover unique, one-of-a-kind Van Cleef & Arpels pieces and rare, limited-edition jewels no longer available at Van Cleef & Arpels stores. Our curated selection of Van Cleef & Arpels jewelry is continuously refreshed, ensuring that you’ll always find something new and exclusive.

Buy and Sell Van Cleef & Arpels Necklaces at Sotheby's

Sotheby's often has rare and collectible Van Cleef & Arpels necklaces available at auction. Sotheby's also has a curated selection of Van Cleef & Arpels necklaces available for immediate purchase on marketplace. If you would like to view a Van Cleef necklace, a salon specialist would be happy to assist. Sotheby's is also able to source Van Cleef & Arpels necklaces from its global supplier network.

The price of a Van Cleef & Arpels necklace ranges from around $7,000 for a basic Alhambra pendant necklace to over $250,000 for a gold and diamond Van Cleef & Arpels necklace. Most Van Cleef & Arpels necklaces range from $20,000 - $100,000 if the necklace has diamonds and other gemstones. The size, quality and quantity of the diamonds and gemstones in addition to the craftsmanship of the design all factor into the price of a Van Cleef & Arpels necklace. Additionally rare vintage or custom designed Van Cleef & Arpels necklaces are more expensive than a style that was made in larger quantities and is readily available on the secondary market.