The Five Most Expensive Rolex Submariner Watches Sold at Auction in 2024

Brief History of Rolex Submariner

The Rolex Submariner was first introduced in 1953 as part of a trio of new black-dialed, stainless-steel sport watches released by the Crown. Its siblings were the Turn-o-Graph (short-lived) and the widely popular Explorer, but the Submariner dive watch is clearly the most impactful of the lot. Since day one, the Rolex Submariner Reference 6204, its core elements have included a Tonneau-shaped case, black rotating bezel with 60-minute gradations for dive timing. The Rolex Submariner also featured a bold dial with luminous hour markers and hands (including a running seconds hand with a luminous dot near or at the tip), a screw-down crown for water resistance and, importantly, those 10 characters printed at six o’clock: SUBMARINER.

For the last seven decades, Rolex has continuously made some version of this watch, with almost all these original elements intact throughout incremental improvements. Crown guards were eventually added to the case, while the crown itself has varied in size over the years. The bezel has changed design and material (from aluminum to ceramic). And the dials have gone through multiple generational changes, including moving from radioactive radium- and tritium-based luminous material to safer synthetic lume. But at the end of the day, every one of these Rolex watches looks quintessentially and undeniably like a Rolex Submariner.

This article explores the top five most expensive Rolex Submariner watches sold in 2024, each celebrated for its unique features, exceptional craftsmanship, and desirability among collectors.

Rolex 'Nipple Dial' Submariner, Reference 1680/8, 264,000 USD

The Rolex ‘Nipple Dial’ Submariner Reference 1680/8 was sold for $264,000 in December 2024 and debuted in 1969 as the first all-gold Submariner. This particular watch was gifted by Rolex employee T. Walker Lloyd to underwater cinematographer Al Giddings as thanks for his work documenting Dr. Sylvia Earle’s pioneering oceanic research. Giddings’ photographs were integral to Rolex’s campaigns promoting Earle’s work, and the gold Submariner became a symbol of their shared dedication to exploration and excellence.

The watch’s journey extended beyond the ocean, taking center stage in James Cameron’s Titanic (1997), where it adorned Brock Lovett's wrist in his role as Dive Director Bill Paxton. Loaned by Giddings, who served as the film’s Co-Producer and Director of Underwater Photography, the Submariner embodied the blend of luxury and adventure. After filming, the watch returned to Giddings with a note of gratitude from Fox Studios. Having been to Titanic’s depths with both Al Giddings and Bill Paxton, the Reference 1680/8 stands as a golden trophy, rich in history and resilience.

Rolex Submariner, Reference 116659SABR, 960,000 HKD

The Rolex Submariner Reference 116659SABR was sold for 960,000 HKD in October 2024, a testament to its allure among collectors. Introduced in 2018, this watch is crafted from 18k white gold and adorned with approximately 3.9 carats of baguette-cut sapphires and 1.7 carats of diamonds. Its meticulously set diamond bezel radiates sophistication, elevating the Submariner’s classic design to a masterpiece of elegance. This particular example remains in pristine condition, complete with its original factory stickers and accompanied by all the original accessories.

The Rolex Submariner Reference 116659SABR is considered one of the most exclusive gem-set timepieces in the brand's lineup, released discreetly without official marketing. Its rarity and understated unveiling have cemented its status as a coveted treasure among discerning collectors. The subtle yet opulent design and the craftsmanship behind this watch make it a standout example of Rolex’s ability to combine technical excellence with luxurious artistry.

Rolex Submariner 'James Bond Big Crown 4 Lines', Reference 6538, 90,000 EUR

The Rolex Submariner 'James Bond Big Crown 4 Lines,' Reference 6538 was sold for 90,000 EUR in October 2024. Introduced in 1955, this Submariner featured the Caliber 1030 movement, a slimmer case, beveled lugs, and the signature 8mm "Big Crown." Its nickname as the "James Bond Submariner" comes from Sean Connery wearing it in the 1962 film, Dr. No. This particular example stands out for its rare four-line dial, the first to feature chronometer certification, with gilt and silvered text providing exceptional visual appeal. The radium lume has aged into a rich patina adding character and history to this timepiece. The baton index at 6 o'clock has a lighter patina, as it should, verifying the originality of this piece.

Retaining its original “Red Triangle” bezel insert, this Reference 6538 is a rare find. Rolex ceased production in 1959, making this reference an exceptional collectible item. Recently rediscovered in a private family collection after 50 years, it represents a true trophy for vintage Rolex enthusiasts.

Rolex Submariner 'Asprey', Reference 116618, 90,000 USD

The Rolex Submariner 'Asprey' Reference 116618 was sold for 90,000 USD in December 2024. This extraordinary example is believed to have been created by special request for the Sultan of Oman. Accompanying this unique timepiece is a Rolex International Guarantee Card stamped by Khimji Ramdas, the official Rolex retailer for the Sultan. Its exclusivity and provenance make it a highly sought-after collector's piece.

The collaboration between Asprey and Rolex has been highly coveted since the 1970s, during which the Omani government ordered customized “Omani” dial timepieces as gifts for British SAS soldiers involved in the Dhofar Rebellion (1970–1976). Asprey, a renowned official Rolex retailer, is celebrated for selling customized pieces, and this Rolex Submariner featuring a rare Lapis Lazuli stone dial is no exception.

Rolex Submariner 'Comex', Reference 16800, 72,000 EUR

Rolex Submariner Watch — Rolex Submariner Comex Reference 16800

The Rolex Submariner 'Comex' Reference 16800 sold for 72,000 EUR in October 2024. Produced from 1979 to 1988, the Submariner Reference 16800 succeeded the iconic reference 1680 and marked a significant evolution in the Submariner lineage. This model featured several key upgrades, including a sapphire crystal replacing the traditional Plexiglas, the robust Caliber 3035 movement, and an improved depth rating of 300 meters. Safety enhancements included a unidirectional rotating bezel, ensuring more precise timing for divers' decompression. Early examples of the reference 16800 were equipped with matte dials featuring tritium indexes, while later models introduced in 1984 featured glossy dials with circled indexes, reflecting Rolex's continual innovation.

Rolex delivered approximately 300 examples of the Submariner Reference 16800 to the renowned French diving company COMEX (Compagnie d’Expertise Maritime) between 1982 and 1986. This particular watch, manufactured in 1982, features an early matte dial and showcases exceptional attention to detail. Its case back is engraved with the internal COMEX reference 6047, and the inside case back bears the matching full case number, corresponding to the serial number between the lugs. Preserved in remarkably attractive condition and accompanied by its original accessories, including its punched guarantee, this piece stands as a testament to Rolex's dedication to meeting the extreme demands of professional divers.

Buy and Sell Your Next Rolex Submariner with Sotheby's

Sotheby’s offers a curated selection of the finest Rolex watches available for immediate purchase, as well as through auctions held in New York, Paris, Zurich, and Hong Kong. Expect to find rare and collectible Rolex models in every sale, including iconic pieces like the Daytona, GMT-Master, Submariner, and more in exceptional condition. Sotheby’s auctions feature an array of Rolex timepieces, ranging from elegant vintage models to contemporary masterpieces, showcasing the brand’s unmatched craftsmanship and innovation.

Prices for Rolex watches start around $10,000 for simpler models like the Datejust and rise significantly for highly sought-after pieces. Iconic models such as the Day-Date and Daytona often command starting prices of $50,000, while rare collectible editions can exceed $200,000.