The Evolution of the Cartier Crash Watch

T he Cartier Crash is a legend in the world of haute horology. Known for its surrealist, asymmetrical shape, this unique Cartier creation has evolved over the decades while maintaining its key design cues. Featuring a selection of pieces from the Sotheby’s archive, this article traces the evolution of a timepeice that holds a distinct place in watchmaking history. Sotheby's have also produced a full collector's guide on the Cartier Crash, available here.

The Cartier Crash was born in 1967 in Cartier’s London branch, at the height of the Swinging Sixties.

It is unknown exactly how many first edition crash pieces there are, but it is speculated that approximately a dozen were produced in the initial series. The bold form introduced the world to the now-iconic distorted design that resembled a watch that had been melted or crashed. Mystery surrounds its origins, including suggestions such as the design resulting from a Cartier Baignoire Allongée that was damaged during a car accident.

While the debate continues, uncontested is that the Cartier Crash design tapped into the avant-garde aesthetics of the era. Early Cartier Crash watches were rare and predominantly produced in 18k yellow gold. Impressively, the first series saw that no two creations were identical which further added to the appeal of each release.

These early examples of the Cartier Crash have skyrocketed in value with auction results of six figures not being uncommon. An excellent example is the above model - a Cartier Crash London watch hailing from 1970. This earlier model featured the makers mark JC throughout the model, exemplifying its significance as a unique piece.

The modern-day enthusiasm towards these Cartier Crash watches is heavily premised on the scarcity of these pieces and the significant labor underpinning their creation.

Accounts vary of when Cartier first produced the Cartier Crash in platinum, whether in the 1980s or 1990s. Timing aside its arrival illustrated how the Cartier Crash watch suited metals other than yellow gold. The model pictured, sold by Sotheby's, showcases how platinum construction suits the Cartier Crash aesthetic, offering a contrast from the more common gold models.

Over time, Sotheby’s has been entrusted with the care and auctioning of several platinum examples of the Cartier Crash. The above model is one such example - created in 1990 and sold by Sotheby's in 2018. This Cartier Crash platinum watch served as a revision to the Cartier Crash watch's early design codes. On account of their rarity, auction prices for platinum variants of the Cartier Crash watch have consistently outperformed the - still significant - prices of the models crafted in yellow gold.

Into the 1990s, Cartier London continued to experiment with the Cartier Crash through custom orders. It was here where we witnessed an uptick in the creation of platinum and white gold Cartier Crash watches. A significant variation with regards to the case size of the Cartier Crash also came in 1991 when the brand released a smaller-sized, limited-run series out of its Paris branch. With a reduced case-size, this iteration from Cartier Paris increased the accessibility of the model by opening up the line to those with a preference for more compact watches. Additionally, a secret Cartier signature could be found in the VII numeral on the dial, adding a touch of whimsy to the reinvented model. A classic example from the 1991 Cartier Paris Crash run was sold at Sotheby's in December 2022's Important Watches sale for 226,800 USD.

This version was exclusively made of 18-carat gold and had a limited run of only 400 numbered pieces. To this day, the 400-piece 1991 Paris Cartier Crash run is the largest number of pieces in any Cartier Crash run. For another 3 years, Cartier London and Cartier Paris produced Cartier Crash watches alongside each other until Cartier London retired the silhouette and passed the torch to Cartier Paris.

In the following years, a variety of smaller, and highly coveted, limited edition models were released. A significant example being the 1994 40-piece pink gold Cartier Crash watch with burgundy numerals. Numbered 383, this Cartier Crash model was sold by Sotheby’s in 2020 for 687,500 HKD in the Important Watches Hong Kong sale.

From 1999 and the Cartier Crash Reference 2462, Crash models incorporated the Maison's know-how in fine jewelry. For a special run in in 2005, Cartier produced a white gold model adorned with diamonds, providing a nod to Cartier's prowess in fine jewelry as well as high watchmaking. Predating the special run in 2000, Sotheby's sold a custom white gold and diamond-set Cartier Crash watch as part of April 2018's Important Watches auction for 325,000 HKD.

The Cartier Crash Diamond models from this period were particularly sought after, with the combination of diamonds and white gold elevating the watch into a new realm of elegance. These pieces were special-order items, often tailored to the client’s specifications. As expected, these models fetch a premium, often selling for several hundred thousand dollars at auction as a reflection of both their rarity and lavish construction.

In 2013 Cartier utilized the Cartier Crash to design to do what the Maison so effortlessly does, blurring the lines between the world's of horlogy and jewelry. This diamond-set version of the Cartier Crash watch was highly limited with only 67 pieces crafted. The model shown here was part of a larger 267 piece Cartier Crash run, with the remaining 200 pieces exclusively featuring white or pink gold bracelets and cases. During Sotheby's 2022 Important Watches auction, a Cartier Crash Reference 3618 with a metal bracelet and pave diamond bezel was sold for 119,700 USD.

Despite being a more modern incarnation of the Cartier Crash, on account of the rarity and opulence of these models, it is not surprising to see them reach significant sale prices on their infrequent occasion they appear at auction.

The 2015 release of the Cartier Crash Skeleton was a significant moment in the story of the Cartier Crash. The design incorporated a skeletonized dial, which revealed the inner mechanics of the watch. Available in materials such as pink gold and platinum, this model retained the iconic asymmetrical case but gave enthusiasts a peek inside the watch’s intricate workings.

The skeleton design was not only a technical marvel but also an aesthetic achievement. Today, the Cartier Crash Skeleton remains a prized possession among Cartier Crash collectors.

In 2018, Cartier once again revisited the Crash design with the release of the Cartier Crash Radieuse. Limited to a very exclusive run, the Cartier Crash Radieuse introduced a new layer of detail with radiating lines engraved on the case.

This limited production included models in platinum, white gold, and yellow gold, with some being diamond-set. The Cartier Crash Radieuse represented a fusion of tradition and modernity. It successfully kept the whimsical design of the Cartier Crash alive while incorporating elements that appealed to more contemporary tastes.