The Essential Guide to the Cartier Tank
The Cartier Tank remains one of the most famous designs in watchmaking. In this guide we provide all you need to know on this enduring icon.
Introduction to the Cartier Tank Watch
The Cartier Tank watch was dreamt up by Louis Cartier himself in 1917. At the time its pared-back rectangular case shape and angular Roman numerals were considered daring at a time of pocket watches and Art Nouveau. Today its graphic lines and minimalist styling appeals to both men and women, cementing its place as one of horology’s most enduring designs. Its popularity is partly explained by the wide range of models available in a wide range of metal, strap and diamond-set combinations. Due to its multi-decade history we also see a number of Cartier Tanks come to auction with fascinating provenance.
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History of the Cartier Tank Watch
The Cartier Tank was developed in 1917, inspired by the shape of military tanks used during World War I, specifically the Renault FT-17. Its official release followed in 1919. Its distinctive rectangular case and clean lines set it apart from other watches of the era. The Tank Louis Cartier emerged in the early 1920s, establishing the general design DNA of the Cartier Tank, with a rounded outer edge creating a more delicate look. The Cartier Tank would turn out to be highly influential in the subsequent designs of rectangular dress watches, cementing its importance in watch history.
The watch steadily gained popularity in the following decades, with many famous wearers. In the world of film Elizabeth Taylor both owned and gifted multiple tanks, as part of her famous jewelry and watch collection. The artist Andy Warhol famously remarked “I don’t wear a Tank watch to tell the time. Actually I never even wind it. I wear a Tank because it is the watch to wear!”. The appeal of the Cartier Tank even extended to royalty, with Princess Diana owning both Tank Louis and later Francaise models. This certainly influenced a lasting affinity within Britain for Cartier's elegant watch designs that endures to this day.
Design and Features
The Cartier Tank watch is known for its minimalist yet elegant design. Key features include:
- Rectangular Case: The most recognizable feature, inspired by the tracks of a military tank.
- Roman Numerals: Classic Roman numeral hour markers, a common Cartier design element, add a touch of sophistication.
- Blue Steel Hands: The signature blue steel hands are again a hallmark of Cartier watches.
- Sapphire Cabochon: The crown is often set with a sapphire cabochon, adding a luxurious touch and flash of colour.
- Leather Strap or Metal Bracelet: The watch is most commonly seen with a metal bracelet, but leather strap options are also widely available, allowing for versatility in style.
Cartier Important Watches at Sotheby’s Luxury Sales
Look back at a range of stunning Cartier watches sold this year during our June Important Sale in New York.
Variations of the Cartier Tank
Over the 100+ year history of the Cartier Tank watch, Cartier has introduced a diverse range of Tank variations, each with distinctive design characteristics. Some of the notable models include:
Cartier Tank Francaise
First introduced in 1996, the Cartier Tank Francaise is the result of the quest of designing a curved square case. The dial is typical of the Tank and the case has the two "bancards", the strong vertical bezel prolonged by the lugs. The curved lines of the case create an harmonious integration of the bracelet or the strap around the wrist.
It is available in various sizes and materials, including stainless steel, yellow gold, and rose gold. Diamond-set examples are also commonly seen.
Cartier Tank Americaine
The Tank Americaine was first presented in 1989. Taking its inspiration from the Tank Cintrée, it featured a larger and more squared design. It responded to the needs and tastes of a new clientele and was the first "waterproof" curved case by Cartier.
At the time when most of the Cartier Tank watches were time only, the Tank Americaine design was perfectly suited to integrate complications such as the date, subsidiary seconds, moon-phases or chronograph. It will quickly become a core Cartier Tank model.
Cartier Tank Cintree
In the annals of horological history, few timepieces have captured the imagination and epitomised elegance quite like the Cartier Tank Cintrée. Born in 1921 from the crucible of innovation and design, this iconic watch stands as a testament to Cartier's relentless pursuit of excellence and its ability to redefine the boundaries of watchmaking.
The Tank Cintrée was a triumph of form and function, marrying the ergonomic curved case profile of the Tonneau with the sleek lines of the Tank's brancards. This fusion of design elements resulted in a watch that was both timeless and avant-garde, a symbol of Cartier's ability to seamlessly blend tradition with innovation.
Cartier Tank Chinoise
In 1922, Cartier introduced the original Tank Chinoise, drawing inspiration from its resemblance to Asian architectural elements. Specifically, the horizontal brancards mirrored the silhouette of entry gates found in many Asian temples.
As part of the Cartier Privé collection, dedicated to reissuing classic designs, 2022 saw the launch of limited edition Privé Tank Chinoise models. These paid homage to the original blueprint while offering a fresh and intriguing update for contemporary collectors, available in yellow gold, pink gold, and platinum.
Cartier Tank Solo
The Cartier Tank Solo is a more accessible version of the Tank, introduced in 2004. It retains the essential design elements of the original Cartier Tank but offers a simpler option. The Tank Solo is available in different sizes and materials, making it a versatile choice for both men and women. Casing options include stainless steel, yellow gold, and rose gold, with diamond-set variations available.
Cartier Tank Women's Watches
Cartier Tank watches have long been a favorite among women due to their elegant and timeless design, complementing well Cartier’s iconic jewelry offering. The Cartier Tank Française, in particular, is popular among women for its sleek and contemporary appearance. Women's Cartier Tank watches also often feature additional feminine touches, such as mother-of-pearl dials and diamond accents. These details make the Cartier Tank a beautiful accessory that complements both casual and formal attire.
Cartier Tank Diamond-Set Watches
For those seeking an extra touch of luxury and sophistication, Cartier offers diamond-set versions of the Cartier Tank watch. These watches feature meticulously set diamonds, enhancing the elegance and brilliance of the timepiece.
- Diamond-Set Bezel: One of the most striking features is the diamond-set bezel, which adds a radiant sparkle to the watch and frames the classic refined dial.
- Diamond Hour Markers: Some models include diamond hour markers on the dial, providing an additional touch of luxury.
- Full Pavé: For the ultimate in opulence, some Cartier Tank watches feature full pavé diamond settings, where the entire case and bracelet is encrusted with diamonds.
Key Cartier Tank models available with diamond-setting include:
- Cartier Tank Francaise Diamond: Available in various sizes and materials, including stainless steel, yellow gold, and rose gold, this model often features a diamond-set bezel and can include diamond hour markers or a full pavé setting.
- Cartier Tank Americaine Diamond: This elongated model looks stunning with a diamond-set bezel or a fully encrusted case and bracelet, and is available in stainless steel, yellow gold, and rose gold.
- Cartier Tank Louis Cartier Diamond: Named after the creator of the Tank watch, this model can be found with diamond accents that highlight its classic design, available in luxurious materials such as yellow gold and rose gold.
Buying and Selling Vintage Cartier Watches at Sotheby's
The Cartier Tank watch remains one of the most famous designs in watchmaking, popular with women and men alike for its timeless blend of style and sophistication. Whether you choose the classic Cartier Tank, the modern Cartier Tank Française, a diamond-set model, or any of its other variations, you are investing in a watch that will remain a cherished accessory for years to come. Sotheby's is on hand to support with your next Cartier Tank watch purchase. We have an extensive offering of carefully curated Cartier watches, covering everything from excellent value Cartier Tank Solo watches to extraordinary vintage pieces with fascinating provenance.
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