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T he Cartier Santos watch is an iconic design within the world of watchmaking, having been a core Cartier model for decades. Known for its distinctive square case emblematic of its historical significance, the Cartier Santos offers the trademark Cartier blend of functionality and quality coupled with elegance and refinement. The Santos' popularity is also rooted in the range of sizes and metal/dial variants available, including more elaborate diamond-set and skeletonized models. The popularity of the Cartier Santos means there is an extensive secondary market available, with many models attractively priced. Sotheby's specialists handpick each Cartier Santos we offer, whether that's through one of our auctions or buy-now offering, meaning you can trust us when investing in an iconic Santos watch.
The Cartier Santos was created in 1904 by Louis Cartier for his friend, the pioneering aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont. Brazilian Santos-Dumont needed a reliable and easily readable watch whilst piloting. Fiddling with a pocket watch was out of the question, resulting in Cartier's innovation in the form of the first commercially-sold wristwatch. The design was defined by its square shape with gently curved lugs. Officially launched in 1911, this innovative watch marked a significant departure from the pocket watches of the era and would significantly influence the evolution of the modern wristwatch.
The Cartier Santos is renowned for its bold and recognizable design. Key features include:
Over its 100+ year history, Cartier has introduced many variations of the Santos, evolving to meet a range of design needs. This offers first-time buyers and collectors alike a huge range of buying options, most of which Sotheby's has sold at one of our watch auctions globally. Below we summarize some of the key models.
The Cartier Santos Dumont is the original 1904 Cartier design. This model is known for its thin case and elegant simplicity, often featuring a manual-wind movement. It is available in various materials such as stainless steel, yellow gold, rose gold, and even platinum. The Cartier Santos Dumont is perfect for those who appreciate a classic and refined timepiece. It frequently comes with luxurious leather straps, enhancing its elegant appeal and providing excellent comfort.
The Cartier Santos de Cartier pays homage to the original Santos, designed in 1978 to combine contemporary style with traditional elegance in response to the rise of contemporary “luxury sport” watches. It is available in various sizes and materials, including stainless steel, two-tone (stainless steel and gold), and full gold versions. The modern Santos de Cartier features an automatic movement and the innovative Cartier QuickSwitch system for easy strap changes, enhancing its versatility. As such this model often comes with both a metal bracelet and a leather strap, allowing the wearer to personalize their Santos for the occasion.
For those who prefer additional functionality, the Cartier Santos de Cartier Chronograph offers a sporty yet elegant option. This model includes chronograph functionality while retaining the iconic design elements of the Santos. The roman numeral time markers are distorted across the watch face, creating an interesting visual effect. It is available in stainless steel, two-tone, and gold versions. Like other models, the chronograph version also supports the QuickSwitch interchangeable straps, including leather options, providing versatility in style and function.
The Cartier Santos de Cartier Skeleton is a stunning display of horological artistry. This model features a skeletonized dial, exposing the intricate mechanics of the watch’s movement. The Roman numerals are cleverly integrated into the skeleton design, enhancing the visual appeal while maintaining legibility. The Santos Skeleton is available in precious metals such as stainless steel, rose gold, and palladium, often adorned with diamond accents for an added touch of luxury. It typically comes with a leather strap, which contrasts nicely against the bold dial design.
Cartier has a long tradition of creating visually stunning and technically complex pieces, with Sotheby's selling many examples over the decades across both our jewelry and watch departments. The Cartier Santos is one such example of Cartier taking a highly popular model and elevating it with striking designs, using techniques like intricate enamel dials and diamond-setting.
The Cartier Santos collection offers a range of materials to suit different preferences and occasions:
Leather straps are a key feature in many Cartier Santos models. These high-quality straps offer a combination of elegance, comfort, and versatility:
The Cartier Santos collection includes many models designed specifically for women. These watches often feature a range of case sizes, intricate details, and additional feminine touches such as mother-of-pearl dials and diamond accents. The blue sapphire cabochon crown and the distinctive design make them a timeless accessory that complements both casual and formal attire.
The Cartier Santos is more than just a watch; it is a symbol of innovation, elegance, and timeless style. Whether you choose the classic Cartier Santos Dumont, the versatile Santos de Cartier, the sporty Santos de Cartier Chronograph, or the visually stunning Santos de Cartier Skeleton, you are investing in a piece of horological history. The Cartier Santos collection offers beautiful options for both men and women, ensuring that everyone can find their perfect match. With its distinctive design, luxurious details, and advanced features, including the comfort and elegance of leather straps, the Cartier Santos is truly an icon in the world of luxury watches.
Sotheby's is on hand to support with your next Cartier Santos watch purchase or sale of an existing watch. We have an extensive offering of carefully curated Cartier watches, covering everything from excellent value Cartier Santos watches to extraordinary pieces with advanced complications.
Trust our worldwide network of leading Cartier specialists from a globally renowned auction house with a 280 year history.
