The Enduring Appeal of Vintage Cartier Watches

The Enduring Appeal of Vintage Cartier Watches

Our Sotheby's specialists frequently bring striking vintage Cartier watches to auction. In this article we explore a superb selection, ranging from a classic Cartier Tank to a highly rare Cartier Crash.
Our Sotheby's specialists frequently bring striking vintage Cartier watches to auction. In this article we explore a superb selection, ranging from a classic Cartier Tank to a highly rare Cartier Crash.

V intage Cartier watches hold a unique allure for collectors and enthusiasts, offering the chance to own a favoured Cartier model with its own history and patina. From the bold creativity of the Cartier Crash to the classic sophistication of the Cartier Tank, each watch tells a story of craftsmanship, innovation and cultural significance. Part of the joy of vintage Cartier watches is the wide range available, with the Cartier Tank Louis featured for example (produced in 1975) offering excellent value at an estimate of $10,000-15,000. Join us as we explore four classic Cartier models.

Cartier Crash Paris, Circa 1991, Estimate 100,000 - 300,000 USD

Cartier Crash Paris, Circa 1991

This Cartier Crash Paris watch is presented with an estimate of 100,000 - 300,000 USD in our upcoming Important Watches sale on December 6 2024.

As modern tastes shift towards eccentric and shaped watches, Cartier London’s designs have proven to be some of the most sought-after in the brand’s entire history. The Cartier Crash is perhaps Cartier London’s most famous creation. Several tales, all of dubious origin, speculate as to the genesis of the design. Some say that a Cartier Baignoire wristwatch became badly damaged in a car crash, and watchmakers found the mangled case shape to be so aesthetically interesting that instead of trying to fix it, they took a cast of it instead to create a new model line. Others claim that inspiration was directly drawn from Salvador Dalí’s landmark surrealist artworks containing melting clocks. Though none of these accounts can be verified, the widespread speculation and adoration speak to the enduring mystique behind the design, as well as its cultural relevance today.

Original Cartier Crash models were produced in incredibly small quantities, and it is estimated that only a dozen London Cartier Crash watches exist today, and by 1964 Cartier London had been sold outside the family. However, this did not mark the end of the model line. Two more series of the Crash would be produced by Cartier Paris, with the present example belonging to the latter made in 1991, in a very limited run of only 400 pieces. This is an unmissable opportunity for any serious collector to own a wonderfully preserved example of Cartier’s most coveted wristwatch. This watch does not only represent the best of Cartier, it is testament to the experimental and innovative spirit of the London workshop, cementing their legacy in watchmaking history.

Cartier Collection Privée Baignoire Allongée, Circa 1991, Estimate 30,000 - 90,000 USD

Cartier Collection Privée Baignoire Allongée, Circa 1991

This Cartier Collection Privée Baignoire Allongée is to be offered with an estimate of 30,000 - 90,000 USD in our upcoming Important Watches sale on December 6 2024.

In 1912, Louis Cartier created and gifted a bespoke wristwatch to the Russian Grand Duchess Pavlovna, one of the brand’s top clients. It was small, and featured an unusual oval case. Though he did not know it at the time, he had just laid the groundwork for a future Cartier classic.

The potential behind this unnamed design was identified in 1957, after the war and just before the ‘Swinging Sixties’ where new and artistic designs flourished. The original small oval wristlet was stretched and enlarged to a bold and masculine 47mm in length, now also drastically curved to help the watch wrap around the wrist and appear more approachable to the contemporary audience. This new shape was known as the Cartier Allongée. Though the size and shape may seem highly unusual and modern for the period, when noting that during this time Cartier also introduced other daring creations such as the Cartier Crash and Oblique, it becomes evident that this was the result of a wider renaissance period in creativity for Cartier.

After the creation of the Cartier Allongée, the Cartier Baignoire name and range was reintroduced sporadically and sparingly throughout the late twentieth century, much in the same way as the Cartier Crash. The present watch belongs to a very limited run of only 400 pieces, created by Cartier Paris in 1991 as part of the Collection Privée. This lot presents collectors with the rare opportunity to acquire a highly coveted and rare timepiece, belonging to one of Cartier’s most recognisable collections.

Cartier Tank, Circa 1929, Estimate 20,000 - 40,000 USD

Cartier Tank, Circa 1929

This Cartier Tank is presented with an estimate of 20,000 - 40,000 USD in our upcoming Important Watches sale on December 6 2024.

This Cartier Tank watch is an incredibly rare find with significant provenance, having once belonged to the historic Clarence Douglas Dillon, former United States Secretary of Treasury. Son of the successful businessman Clarence Dillon, Clarence Douglas Dillion has gone down in history books as the former United States Secetuary of Treasury under John F. Kennedy and former President of the Metropolitan Museum of Art. This Cartier Tank watch was engraved on its caseback with the address of his family’s townhouse, having been purchased 30 blocks north of the Cartier NY Flagship. This is an incomparable opportunity for collectors to own not only a piece of Cartier’s history, but a piece of the United States’ institutional history at large.

Cartier Tank, Circa 1929

Cartier Tank Louis, Circa 1975, Estimate 10,000 - 15,000 USD

Cartier Tank Louis, Circa 1975

This Cartier Tank Louis is offered with an estimate of 10,000 - 15,000 USD in our upcoming Important Watches sale on December 6 2024.

The Tank Louis is one of watchmaking's most notable designs. Named after the third generation family member of the Cartier family, Louis Cartier was instrumental in expanding Cartier’s design aesthetic to encompass Eastern inspirations, and is responsible for many of the characteristics which are still visible today. The Tank design worn by Louis Cartier himself ended up being named after him, and today stands as an icon of the industry. Featuring a movement signed by Audemars Piguet, this Cartier Tank Louis represents a rare opportunity to own a notable vintage Cartier Tank example.

The allure of vintage Cartier watches lies in their ability to encapsulate the spirit of their time while remaining timeless. Each piece, whether the surrealist-inspired Crash, the elongated elegance of the Baignoire Allongée, or the historically significant Tank, represents a blend of artistry, heritage, and innovation. The upcoming Sotheby’s Important Watches auction on December 6, 2024, offers collectors a rare opportunity to acquire these extraordinary pieces. Highlights like the 1991 Cartier Crash Paris and the historically rich Cartier Tank once owned by Clarence Douglas Dillon are set to captivate the hearts of enthusiasts, underscoring Cartier’s enduring legacy in the world of fine watchmaking.


Buy or Sell Vintage Cartier Watches at Sotheby's

At Sotheby’s our experts have brought a wide range of vintage Cartier watches to market, making us well placed to advise clients on the sale or acquisition of a Cartier watch. Work with Sotheby's specialists and in doing so be part of our community of passionate watch enthusiasts and collectors.

  • Explore upcoming watch auctions across the globe, frequently featuring Cartier examples with excellent provenance
  • Speak to our specialists about selling your Cartier watch, for advice on an auction lot, or to explore private sales opportunities
  • Research your Cartier investment using our extensive sale archive
  • Browse our range of carefully curated watches available for immediate delivery, all with assured provenance
  • Shop for complementary Cartier jewelry handpicked by our global network of jewelry specialists

Trust our worldwide network of leading Cartier specialists from a globally renowned auction house with a 280 year history.

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