The Enduring Allure of the Convertible Tiara
Learn more about the timeless appeal of High Jewelry Convertible Tiaras.
Brief History of the Tiara
The enduring allure of the tiara is due to its long and rich history, dating back thousands of years. The origins of the tiara can be traced to ancient civilizations of Greece, Egypt, and Rome. Rulers and deities wore simple diadems or headbands as symbols of power, divinity, and status. These early tiaras were crafted from metals like gold and adorned with precious stones, signifying rank and authority. The ancient Greeks often decorated statues of their gods, heroes and victorious athletes with wreaths of gold laurel leaves. Roman rulers and high-ranking officials would also wear these sacred symbols of honor at weddings and banquets.
In Europe, tiaras gained prominence during the Middle Ages and Renaissance as crowns or diadems worn by royalty. By the 18th and 19th centuries, the tiara evolved into a highly ornate and fashionable accessory for aristocratic women, often seen at court events and formal occasions. The 18th century painting by Jean-Baptiste Greuze depicts a Roman maiden kneeling under Cupid, the god of desire and affection. In return, she receives a floral diadem that symbolizes the crowning of love.
Since antiquity, adornments for the head has held special meanings across different cultures and civilizations. From humble materials such as flowers and leaves made into wreaths for loved ones, to precious metals and magnificent gems worn by kings and queens, the celebration of the diadem has been universal throughout history.
The Convertible Tiara
Convertible tiara's first started appearing in the mid 19th century. These versatile pieces became popular during the Victorian era, around the 1850s to 1860s. European royal families and aristocracy favored adaptable, multi functional jewelry to suit different occasions and styles. The concept of convertible jewelry began in the Victorian period, where practicality and versatility started to play a role in the design of luxury jewelry. Queen Victoria’s influence on fashion during this time helped spread the idea of transformable pieces, as jewelry was often designed to be multi functional. Tiaras during this period were commonly designed to be broken down into smaller pieces, such as brooches or necklaces, to allow for greater flexibility. This was especially useful for women attending various events where a tiara might be too formal, but a necklace or brooch would be appropriate.
Today convertible tiaras remain one of the most desired high jewelry pieces. Buyers are attracted to convertible tiaras with links to royal and noble provenance and to one of kind custom creations from the past. Clients also often turn to High Jewelry brands like Harry Winston, Van Cleef & Arpels and Cartier for a convertible tiara for a gala event, wedding or other milestone celebration but want the flexibility to wear the creation again for less formal functions, not dissimilar to the Victorian era.
Learn more about our favorite Convertible Tiaras.
Modern Convertible Diamond Tiara Necklace
Sotheby's often has a curated selection of modern High Jewelry convertible tiaras available for immediate shipment. These tiaras often feature diamonds in different cuts and varying sizes with total diamond weights exceeding 80 carats. The quality of the diamonds in High Jewelry convertible tiaras is generally H-I color and VS2-SI1 clarity. High Jewelry convertible tiaras start at $100,000 and can exceed $1 million depending on the design and gem stones.
Cartier Convertible Tiara Necklace Brooch
Sotheby's auctions often feature rare convertible tiaras from top brands including Cartier. In 2022, Sotheby's sold an impressive convertible Cartier tiara from the 1930s that sold for almost $500,000. The Cartier convertible tiara has diamonds weighing a total of 28-38 carats on average H-J colour with few K, SI clarity with few I. It can be worn as a tiara, necklace and brooch.
It was originally owned by the late Lady Smith, wife of Sir John Smith. He was a well-known banker and philanthropist who was prominent for many decades in heritage organisations which were dedicated to saving outstanding British architecture. Sir John became the Member of Parliament for Westminster in the 1970s. Inherited from her mother, Lady Smith wore this tiara as a form of a necklace on grand occasions held for the Queen at the Buckingham Palace, as well as several State Openings of Parliament and State Banquets.
Rana Dynasty Convertible Diamond Halo Tiara Necklace 1930s
Sotheby's sold a Rana Dynasty convertible diamond tiara in 2023 for almost $700,000 featuring over 90 carats in total diamond weight. Formerly in the Collection of H.H. Sri 3 Maharaja of Kaski and Lamjung, Sir Chandra Shumshere Jung Bahadur Rana of Nepal
Halo tiaras are worn at a steep angle, high on the crown of the head, encircling the wearer with a halo-like blaze of precious stones. The style was developed in the 1930s, serving as the perfect complement to the closely cropped, waved hairstyles that were in favor by fashionable women. Lacloche Frères was instrumental in popularizing the halo tiara, most famously with the creation of a Chinese-inspired design for Loelia, Duchess of Westminster, in 1930. The Westminster tiara originally featured the Hastings diamond and the pear-shaped Arcot diamonds, gifted to George III by the Nizam Ali Kahn and to Queen Charlotte by the Nawab of Arcot, respectively. Cartier London was particularly well-known for the halo style, often integrating Egyptian-inspired elements such as palmettes. The production of halo tiaras was concentrated around 1934-1936; most were transformable into necklaces with a central motif that could be worn as a brooch.
Maharaja Chandra Shumsher was the fifth Prime Minister of the Rana Dynasty of Nepal from 8th July 1863 – 26th November 1929. During his time in office Chandra Shumshere abolished slavery and the act of Sati, and established Nepal’s first college and hospitals throughout the country. He provided monetary and military assistance to Britain during the First World War, and maintained the independence of the Kingdom of Nepal throughout the Colonial era which culminated in the Anglo-Nepalese Treaty of Friendship in Katmandu on 11th December in 1923, with Britain recognising the independence of Nepal. He travelled to Britain where he was entertained by His Majesty King Edward VII and also toured Europe meeting the French President. He attended the Coronation Durbar at Delhi in 1903 and again in 1911 when he was granted a 19-gun salute. He received King-Emperor George V in Nepal December 1911 and King Edward VIII as Prince of Wales in December 1921. Part of his legacy is his donation of the largest collection of ancient Sanskrit Manuscripts to the University of Oxford, known as the Chandra Shumshere Collection.
The Rana family amassed great wealth, including property and jewellery. According to family tradition, this exceptional diamond tiara was mounted by Cartier in the 1930s and has thence passed down by descent.
Köchert Convertible Tiara, circa 1893
Sotheby's sold a Köchert convertible tiara from 1893 for just over $600,000 in 2023. The convertible tiara is designed as a naturalistic spray of wild roses, the stamen and rose-buds set with cushion-shaped and oval Burmese rubies, the leaves pavé-set with cushion-shaped and rose diamonds. Köchert was the Imperial Jewellers in Vienna and this tiara is from the Collection of Archduchess Margarete Sophie of Austria, Duchess of Württemberg (1870-1902). It can be worn as a tiara, necklace, brooch and hair pins.
The convertible tiara was a wedding gift which Emperor Franz Joseph purchased at Köchert for his niece Archduchess Margarete Sophie of Austria when she married Albrecht, Duke and Crown Prince of Württemberg in 1893. When Archduchess Margarete Sophie passed away in 1902, ruby and diamond tiara was part of her estate. In 1913, her husband Albrecht, Duke and Crown Prince of Württemberg bequeathed it their son Albrecht Eugen, Duke of Württemberg (1895-1954).
Musy Convertible Tiara, Second Half 19th Century
IN 2021, Sotheby's sold a Musy convertible diamond and natural pearl tiara for $1.7 million that dates back to the second half of the 19th century. This tiara was likely to have been presented to Maria Vittoria dal Pozzo in 1867 as a wedding gift on the occasion of her marriage to Amedeo of Savoy, Duke of Aosta, later elected King of Spain as Amadeo I (1870- 1873), the tiara, which has remained with the family for over 150 years, is believed to have been created by Musy Padre e Figli – Court Jeweller of Turin, and one of the oldest goldsmiths in Europe.
Composed of graduated scroll motifs set with cushion-shaped, circular- and single-cut diamonds, framing eleven slightly baroque drop-shaped natural pearls, the jewel has more recently been seen worn as an elegant necklace. The surmount rests on a detachable band composed of cluster and bar motifs set with cushion-shaped diamonds. The scroll motifs are detachable and may be adapted and worn as a necklace. The tiara, which was created by Musy, belonged to Maria Vittoria Carlotta Enrichetta Giovanna dal Pozzo della Cisterna (1847-1876), Duchess of Aosta and Queen of Spain.
According to a drawing in the archives of Maison Musy in Turin, one of the options for the base of the tiara was to set it with pearls. At the time, jewelry was designed to be worn in several ways, and this was arguably a variation or a project that went unchecked. The jeweller, very early on, forged close links with the House of Savoy, receiving his first royal patent in 1765 from Prince Luigi of Savoy (1721-1778), Prince of Carignan, and becoming a goldsmith and the court clockmaker. The relationship continued, and Musy provided many jewels for: Queen Margherita (1851-1926), wife of King Umberto I; Queen Elena (1873- 1952), wife of King Vittorio Emanuele III, and Queen Marie-Josée (1906-2001), wife of King Umberto II. There is an engraving showing Maria Vittoria wearing the adornment but set with emeralds. Whether this is the creator’s fantasy, or the jewel’s versatility, is a mystery that remains unsolved.
Buying and Selling Tiaras at Sotheby's
Sotheby's often has convertible tiaras available at auction including tiaras with royal and noble provenance especially in the Royal and Noble Jewels sales. Expect to find tiaras with exceptional provenance, high quality craftsmanship and often convertible into other jewelry pieces. The most established design styles within the tiara genre, including Napoleonic Empire, Romantic Naturalism, Belle Epoque and Art Deco along with Modern and Contemporary designs. Tiaras are perfect for your wedding, next gala or other important formal event. Sotheby's can also source tiaras from our global supplier network. Sotheby's often also has a curated selection of tiaras available for immediate purchase. A salon specialist would be happy to assist if you would like to arrange to view a tiara in person.
- Explore upcoming jewelry at auctions in New York, London, Switzerland, Paris, and Hong Kong.
- Speak to a Salon Associate in New York, Zurich or Hong Kong to schedule an appointment.
- Speak to a Jewelry Specialist about selling a jeweled tiara.
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