The Design Techniques that Define & Differentiate Buccellati Jewelry

Buccellati is an Italian luxury jewelry brand known founded by Mario Buccellati in 1919 in Milan. Mario Buccellati was inspired by Renaissance-era goldsmithing techniques and aimed to revive these ancient methods to create unique and beautiful jewelry creations. Mario earned the title “Prince of Goldsmiths,” and his unique designs attracted aristocrats and even royalty, including the Italian nobility and the Vatican. Buccellati became known for its ability to blend Italian Renaissance and Baroque influences with contemporary style. In the 1950s, Mario's sons, Gianmaria and Lorenzo Buccellati, joined the business. Gianmaria was instrumental in growing Buccellati's global presence, establishing boutiques in cities like New York, Paris, and Hong Kong. Buccellati’s style is characterized by intricate engraving and texturing of gold and silver in ways that mimic delicate fabrics like lace and tulle.

Buccellati was acquired by Richemont in 2019 for an undisclosed amount but its jewelry remains true to its heritage. Richemont also owns Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels.

Buccellati is best known for the following specialized techniques including specialized engraving, openwork, enchaining and twisted thread. All of these design techniques executed by skilled artisans defines and differentiates Buccellati jewelry. The resulting Buccellati jewelry is transformed with patterns, texture and movement that is distinctly Buccellati. Read on to learn more about these distinct techniques that draw collectors to Buccellati jewelry.

The most famous Buccellati engraving technique is called Rigato. This engraving technique is one of the most famous and recognizable from Buccellati. Skilled artisans at Buccellati use fine engraving tools to engrave a series of very thin parallel lines by hand into the metal surface. The final result is a silky reflective effect that mimics luxurious textiles. Each line is meticulously carved by hand using a burin and a direction and depth of the limes are precisely controlled. The Rigato technique enhances the visual depth and softness of jewelry pieces, allowing the light to catch on the finely textured surface in a way that gives the metal a soft, matte glow. It is often used to depict natural elements in Buccellati's designs, such as petals, leaves, or other organic shapes, giving them an almost lifelike quality. The Regato technique requires extreme precision and patience leading to a beautifully textured surface that has depth, dimension and maintains refined elegance.

The Macri Collection was introduced in the 1980s by Gianmaria Buccelleti. Named after his daughter Maria Cristina, this iconic collection is known for its Rigato technique and diamond accents that are often set in star-shaped rosettes. Sotheby's often has Buccellati Macri Collection jewelry available at auction and marketplace. Prices range but the most desirable bold cuffs generally sell for between $30,000 to $70,000.

The Segrinato technique is another engraving technique created in the 1930s and 1940s and was initially used on silver objects but expanded to gold jewelry. This Buccellati technique is created by meticulously hand-engraving overlapping lines in various directions using a burin, resulting in a soft and organic appearance. The final effect is a delicate, velvet-like texture to precious metals. It proved ideal for rendering naturalistic elements such as leaves, flowers, and fruits, bringing a lifelike quality to bracelets and brooches. The Segrinato technique is another example of Buccellati's dedication to traditional goldsmithing methods, allowing artisans to transform metal surfaces into intricate works of art that capture the essence of natural forms.

Buccellati has two popular openwork techniques including Tulle and Lace. The Tulle or Traforato technique was developed in the 1920s by the founder Mario Buccellati. This technique involves meticulously hand-piercing precious metals to create a delicate, lace-like pattern similar to fine tulle fabric. Skilled artisans use fine blades to saw each tiny, polygonal hole individually, resulting in a mesh-like structure that is both lightweight and visually captivating. The Tulle technique not only showcases Buccellati's mastery in metalwork but also enhances the aesthetic appeal of their jewelry pieces, allowing light to pass through the intricate patterns and creating a sense of airiness and elegance.

The lace technique was also created in the 1920s by Mario Buccellati. Mario was inspired by Venetian embroideries that served as his inspiration for transposing their patterns using a complex piercing technique. This openwork design remains an iconic technique for the Buccellati today.

Some of the most expensive Buccellati bracelets sold at Sotheby's feature the Tulle technique with diamonds and gem stones. Prices for these bold yet delicate cuffs can start $20,000 but can exceed $100,000. In 2022, Sotheby's sold a Buccellati bracelet featuring both the Regato and Tulle technique with diamonds and rubies in 18 karat gold for almost $50,000.

The Buccellati Twisted Thread or Filo Ritorto is a design technique where fine gold thread is twisted back upon itself. The final Twisted Threads resemble weaved yarn. The most famous Buccellati jewelry collection highlighting this technique is the Hawaii collection first introduced in the 1930s. The design features Twisted Thread circles meticulously intertwined to create bracelets, necklaces and earrings.

Enchaining is another important Buccellati technique that connects jewelry elements together with small links on the back side of the jewelry. This Buccellati technique allows the jewelry piece to offer the maximum flexibility and comfort and creative freedom for Buccellati artisans. Enchaining is used in articulated bracelets and necklaces to create elegant final pieces that link sections together seamlessly and appear to almost flow like fabric. Consistent with Buccellati's other popular design techniques, enchaining is another way to create unique jewelry that resembles elegant fabrics and objects in nature that is hallmark of the brand.

Buccellati jewelry often combines multiple design techniques in a single jewelry piece. Engraving and openwork are often combined to create some of the most collectible and unique Buccellati bracelets and other jewelry creations. Collectors love Buccellati jewelry for its elegant hand engraving and openwork that is unmatched by another jewelry brand.

Sotheby's often has impressive Buccellati Jewelry creations available at auction, many featuring Buccellati's most popular design techniques. Sotheby's also has a curated selection of Buccellati jewelry available for immediate purchase on marketplace. If you would like to view a Buccellati jewelry creation, a salon specialist would be happy to assist. Sotheby's is also able to source Buccellati jewelry from its global supplier network. Prices for Buccellati jewelry start at around $5,000 for simple gold earrings and brooches but can exceed $100,000 for bold gem and diamond cuffs and collar necklaces. The most popular gem and diamond studded cuff bracelets range from around $30,000 to $70,000.

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