The Complete Guide to the Rolex Datejust
Rolex Datejust

The Complete Guide to the Rolex Datejust

Learn more about Rolex's most popular watch, the elegant and innovative Rolex Datejust.
Learn more about Rolex's most popular watch, the elegant and innovative Rolex Datejust.

T he Rolex Datejust, often hailed as an icon of luxury and precision, has a storied legacy that combines timeless elegance with cutting-edge innovation. Known for its distinctive design and unparalleled craftsmanship, the Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust remains one of the most sought-after timepieces in the world.

Complete with a punched Official Chronometer Certification dated December 27th, 1995, booklets, leather document holder, and polishing cloth sits an 18k yellow gold Rolex Datejust reference 69178 in a Rolex Presentation Box. Sold for 9,000 USD in June 2024.

Introduction to the Rolex Datejust

The Rolex Datejust was first introduced in 1945, a milestone that marked the Rolex brand’s 40th anniversary. This release was a groundbreaking moment in the history of watchmaking, as the Rolex Datejust was the world's first self-winding chronometer watch to display the date in a window at the 3 o'clock position on the dial. Prior to this innovation, watches did not automatically adjust the date, requiring manual adjustment. The Rolex Datejust watch’s automatic date change at midnight set a new standard and established a feature that has since become ubiquitous in watches.

The inception of the Rolex Datejust was not just about functionality; it also emphasized aesthetic refinement. The original Rolex Datejust, launched with the Jubilee bracelet, featured a design that balanced elegance with robustness. Introduced by Rolex in 1926, the watch's Oyster case was the world's first waterproof watch case. This made the Rolex Datejust not only stylish but also durable and reliable under various conditions.

The Rolex Datejust watch's appeal has been timeless by maintaining its classic design while integrating modern advancements over the decades. It has undergone numerous updates and iterations, including the introduction of the Cyclops lens in 1953 which magnifies the date for easy readability. This blend of tradition and innovation has kept the Rolex Datejust at the forefront of watchmaking, making it a favorite among collectors and enthusiasts.

Rolex Datejust Reference 16018 Circa 1982

Key Features of the Rolex Datejust

The Oyster Case

The Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust features the robust and waterproof Oyster case, which is a cornerstone of the Rolex brand’s reputation for durability and precision. The Rolex Oyster case ensures that the watch is water-resistant up to 100 meters to protect the intricate movement within.

The Jubilee Bracelet

Introduced simultaneously with the Rolex Datejust, the Jubilee bracelet is known for its comfort and refined appearance. It features a five-piece link construction that provides both flexibility and a sophisticated look that complements the watch's overall design.

The Cyclops Lens

One of the most recognizable features of the Datejust Rolex is the Cyclops lens, introduced in 1953. Positioned over the date window the Cyclops lens magnifies the date by two and a half times. This made the watch easier to read and added a distinctive character to the piece. 

Rolex Datejust Wimbledon Reference 126300 Circa 2019

Rolex Datejust Available Sizes

The Rolex Datejust is available in a variety of sizes to suit different wrist sizes and preferences. The most common sizes include:

  • 28mm: Typically referred to as the Rolex Lady Datejust, this size is perfect for those who prefer a smaller, more delicate timepiece.
  • 31mm: Known as the midsize Rolex Datejust, it offers a balance between the classic ladies' and larger men's sizes, making it a versatile option for both genders.
  • 36mm: This size is considered the classic Rolex Datejust size, suitable for both men and women who prefer a moderate-sized watch.
  • 41mm: The Rolex Datejust II or Rolex Datejust 41 are known as the largest options, designed for those who prefer a more substantial presence on the wrist.
Rolex Datejust 31 Circa 2018

Diamond Set Rolex Datejust Watches

For those seeking additional luxury and elegance, Rolex offers diamond set Rolex Datejust watches. These timepieces feature meticulously selected and expertly set diamonds, adding an extra layer of sophistication and sparkle.

Rolex Datejust Diamonds and Rubies

Diamond-Set Bezels and Dials

Diamond-set Rolex Datejust models often feature diamonds on the bezel to enhance the watch's allure and glamour. Additionally, some models have diamond hour markers on the dial, adding a touch of brilliance to the timepiece.

Customization Options

Rolex provides various customization options for diamond set Rolex Datejust watches. Customers can choose from different diamond patterns and placements for a personalized and unique expression of luxury.

Rolex Datejust Reference 69159 Circa 1986

Popular Models

Some of the popular diamond-set Rolex Datejust models include:

  • Rolex Datejust 36 with Diamond Dial: This model features a 36mm case with a diamond-set dial, combining classic size with luxurious detailing.
  • Rolex Lady Datejust 28 with Diamond Bezel: The 28mm case adorned with a diamond bezel makes this model a perfect blend of elegance and brilliance.
Rolex Datejust 35 Circa 1977

Famous Wearers of the Rolex Datejust

The Rolex Datejust has adorned the wrists of many prominent figures across various fields, further cementing its status as a symbol of success and sophistication. Some of the notable wearers include:

  • Winston Churchill: The legendary British Prime Minister received a Rolex Datejust as a gift from Rolex, reflecting the watch’s status and prestige.
  • Dwight D. Eisenhower: The 34th President of the United States was known to wear a Rolex Datejust, showcasing its appeal among world leaders.
  • Martin Luther King Jr.: The civil rights leader’s choice of a Rolex Datejust highlights the watch’s association with influential figures who have made significant contributions to society.
  • Paul Newman: The celebrated actor and race car driver was often seen wearing a Rolex Datejust, underscoring its versatility and timeless charm.
Rolex Datejust Reference 16018 Made for the Royal Saudi Arabian Police Force Circa 1980

The Rolex Datejust stands as a testament to the brand's dedication to luxury, precision, and innovation. From its groundbreaking introduction in 1945 to the numerous updates and iconic features like the Cyclops lens and Jubilee bracelet, the Rolex Datejust has seamlessly blended tradition with modern advancements. The variety in sizes, the option for diamond-set models, and the rich history of famous wearers further highlight its timeless appeal. The Rolex Datejust watch's enduring elegance and unparalleled craftsmanship continue to captivate collectors and enthusiasts, solidifying its status as one of the most sought-after timepieces in the world.

Source Your Next Rolex Datejust

The Rolex Datejust, including the affectionately nicknamed Rolex Datejust Ovettone model or the luxurious Rolex Datejust Rainbow women’s model, remains one of the most sought after watches globally. Sotheby's is on hand to support as a trusted partner for selling or purchasing a vintage or modern Rolex Datejust.

Research your Rolex Datejust investment using our extensive Rolex sale archive.

Watches Watches Buy Now

About the Author

More from Sotheby's

Stay informed with Sotheby’s top stories, videos, events & news.

Receive the best from Sotheby’s delivered to your inbox.

By subscribing you are agreeing to Sotheby’s Privacy Policy. You can unsubscribe from Sotheby’s emails at any time by clicking the “Manage your Subscriptions” link in any of your emails.

arrow Created with Sketch. Back To Top