The Complete Guide to the Patek Philippe Nautilus

Introduction to the Patek Philippe Nautilus

T he Patek Philippe Nautilus is a rare watch that incites admiration among novices and aficionados alike. Its allure is so powerful that even seasoned collectors, such as Kevin O’Leary of Shark Tank fame, have been visibly emotional upon acquiring one. This reaction underscores the profound impact and iconic status of the Nautilus, a watch that transcends typical timepiece appreciation.

The Patek Philippe Nautilus is celebrated for its complex complications or impressive movements. Additionally the Patek Nautilus is prized as an icon of design. Like a Jeanneret chair or a Ferrari 250 GTO, the Patek Philippe Nautilus is a touchstone of modern design, indelibly changing and continuing to influence its medium. The story behind its creation is legendary, marking a significant chapter in horological history.

History of the Patek Phillipe Nautilus

In the 1970s, a slumping economy and the rise of quartz battery powered timepieces created a perfect storm for traditional mechanical watchmakers. Until then, serious timepieces were primarily fine gold dress watches. However, the introduction of steel and quartz provided more affordable, accessible alternatives, polarizing the market and threatening the relevance of heritage brands like Patek Philippe.

Audemars Piguet faced a similar fate when it commissioned Gérald Genta in 1972 to design a watch that combined mechanical finesse with economical steel. Genta responded with the Royal Oak, a model that introduced the luxury sport watch category. This concept bridged the gap between traditional dress watches and utilitarian tool watches, featuring elements of old world luxury in a material suited to everyday life.

While Audemars Piguet enjoyed the Royal Oak’s success, Patek Philippe sought its own breakthrough. Legend has it that during the Basel watch fair in 1974, Genta spontaneously designed the Patek Philippe Nautilus while observing Patek executives. Inspired by transatlantic ocean liner portholes, the Patek Philippe Nautilus featured a graphic cushion shaped bezel with ears mimicking cruise ship window hinges. Despite its spontaneous creation, the Patek Philippe Nautilus watch’s design was artfully considered, making steel stylish whilst achieving superior water resistance of 120 meters.

Notable Patek Philippe Nautilus References

Sotheby’s has had the privilege of auctioning several notable references of the Patek Philippe Nautilus, each contributing to the model's storied legacy.

Patek Philippe Nautilus Reference 5711/1A-010

One of the most coveted versions of the Patek Philippe Nautilus, the Reference 5711/1A-010 features a sleek steel case and is often known for its striking blue dial. This model’s timeless design and versatility cements it as a top choice for collectors.

Patek Philippe Nautilus Reference 3700/1

The original Jumbo Patek Philippe Nautilus Reference 3700/1 is an icon of horological design. Introduced in 1976, this 42mm masterpiece with its distinctive porthole inspired bezel and integrated bracelet set the standard for luxury sports watches. Its rarity and historical significance make it a prized possession for any serious collector.

Patek Philippe Nautilus Reference 3800/1

Introduced in 1980, the reference 3800/1 offered a smaller, 37mm alternative to the original Jumbo Patek Philippe Nautilus. This model maintained the Patek Philippe Nautilus’s signature design elements while appealing to those seeking a more understated wrist presence. Its introduction marked an important expansion of the Nautilus line, contributing to its widespread popularity.

Nautilus Patek Philippe — Patek Philippe Nautilus Reference 3800/1

Patek Philippe Nautilus Reference 5712/1A-001

The reference 5712/1A-001 stands out with its asymmetrical dial featuring a power reserve indicator, moon phase display, and date subdial. This model showcases the ability of Patek Philippe to blend complex functions with elegant design, making it a standout piece in the Patek Philippe Nautilus collection. Its unique aesthetic and functional sophistication have made it a favorite.

Patek Philippe Nautilus Reference 5990/1A-001

Combining the dual time zone feature with a chronograph, the reference 5990/1A-001 is a testament to Patek Philippe’s innovation within the Patek Philippe Nautilus line. This reference caters to the modern traveler, offering practicality without compromising on style.

Material Evolution

The Patek Philippe Nautilus has been crafted in various materials, each adding a unique dimension to its character and appeal. The original models were made from nickel-chrome-molybdenum, a robust steel alloy known for its durability. It was previously used extensively for military tanks during World War II. This choice of material not only ensured the watch's longevity but also positioned it as a versatile timepiece suitable for both rugged and refined settings.

Over the years, the Patek Philippe Nautilus watch has been offered in different metals, including stainless steel, gold, and platinum. Stainless steel remains the quintessential choice for its timeless appeal and practical durability, embodying the Nautilus's spirit of luxury sportiness. Gold and platinum versions, on the other hand, elevate the watch's status, offering a more opulent alternative for those seeking an extra touch of luxury. The use of these precious metals enhances the watch's aesthetic and showcases Patek Philippe's commitment to exceptional craftsmanship and design.

Complications Available for the Patek Philippe Nautilus

Time and Date: The simplest and most common complication, providing basic timekeeping and date display.
Moon Phase: Adds a romantic and visually appealing element, tracking the lunar cycle.
Chronograph: A practical feature for measuring short time intervals, often used in sports and other timing activities.
Multi Time Zone: Allows the wearer to keep track of multiple time zones, ideal for frequent travelers.
Annual Calendar: Automatically adjusts the date for months with varying lengths, requiring manual correction only once a year.
Perpetual Calendar: A highly complex complication that accounts for leap years and displays the correct date perpetually.
Minute Repeater: A sophisticated feature that chimes the time on demand, showcasing Patek Philippe’s mastery in horological craftsmanship.

Patek Philippe Nautilus Women's Models

In 1980, Patek Philippe expanded the Nautilus line by introducing a women’s model characterized by gently waving lines on the dial, contrasting with the men’s tailored stripes. This addition broadened the appeal of the Nautilus, offering a sophisticated and elegant option for female collectors. The same year also saw the introduction of a smaller 37mm men’s model, reference 3800, catering to those who preferred a more understated wrist presence.

Straps Available for the Patek Philippe Nautilus

Stainless Steel Bracelet: The classic and most recognizable strap option, offering durability and a sporty yet elegant look.
Leather Strap: Available in various colors, the leather strap adds a touch of sophistication and can be more comfortable for some wearers.
Rubber Strap: Designed for those with an active lifestyle, the rubber strap provides flexibility and resistance to water and sweat.
Gold Bracelet: For those seeking an opulent appearance, the gold bracelet enhances the luxurious appeal of the Nautilus.
Textile Strap: A less common option, the textile strap offers a unique look and is often chosen for its lightweight and comfortable feel.

The Patek Nautilus remains an unrivaled icon in the world of luxury watches. Its journey from a revolutionary design in the 1970s to a modern day grail watch exemplifies the enduring appeal and innovation of Patek Philippe. Each reference, from the original Jumbo to the latest iterations, contributes to the rich tapestry of the Nautilus legacy. Sotheby’s watch auctions continue to highlight the significance of these timepieces, celebrating their historical importance and the timeless allure they hold for collectors worldwide. Whether for its groundbreaking design, storied history, or the prestige of the Patek Philippe name, the Nautilus is a watch that transcends trends, solidifying its place as a true masterpiece in horology.

Source Your Next Patek Philippe Nautilus Luxury Watch

At Sotheby’s, our experienced specialists have helped build a robust collection of Patek Philippe Nautilus watches available for sale and auction. Whether you are curious about the value of a modern or vintage Patek Philippe Nautilus, Sotheby's is on hand to support as a trusted partner for selling or purchasing your next Patek Philippe watch.