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The Collector’s Guide to Dior
Few names in the world of fashion evoke as much reverence as the house of Dior. Read on for everything you need to know about the eponymous fashion powerhouse.
F rom couture to contemporary fashion, the luxury fashion house of Dior boasts an influence that spans decades. Few names in the world of fashion evoke as much reverence as that of Christian Dior. The house of Dior’s evolution, from Christian Dior’s visionary beginnings to its successive modern-day reinventions, is marked by a series of extraordinary moments that have each left their indelible mark on the fashion world.
If you love fashion – or are just now falling in love with it – you need to know Dior. Here is the definitive guide.
Christian Dior’s Milestone Moments
Although now lauded as one of the industry’s most important couturiers, Christian Dior (1905-1957) was not initially drawn to fashion. Born in coastal Normandy in 1905 before moving to Paris at the age of five, Monsieur Dior studied political science and served in the military before discovering his passion for design. The designer even dabbled in fine art, running an art gallery in Paris prior to transitioning into fashion in 1942 working for couturier Lucien Long, and subsequently founding his own couture house in 1946. The following year, he introduced his first collection to the world, forever altering the course of fashion with a look that would become part of fashion history and catapult him to cult status on the global stage.
In his inaugural collection, the groundbreaking En Huit and Corolle lines spotlighted what was called “The New Look” – a term that was allegedly coined by Carmel Snow, the editor-in-chief for Harper’s Bazaar at the time. This distinct silhouette was defined by rounded, sloping shoulders, a nipped-in waist and voluminous, full skirting. Monsieur Dior has long-since spoken about his fascination with flowers, which many felt influenced this iconic silhouette. In his autobiography, Dior by Dior (1957) he wrote, “I designed clothes for flower-like women, with rounded shoulders, full feminine busts, and hand-span waists above enormous spreading skirts.” It was in this very same collection that Monsieur Dior launched the Bar jacket – a classic women's suit jacket with a darted waist that remains a key feature of Dior ready-to-wear collections to this day.
Monsieur Dior’s astronomical rise to global stardom proceeded at a rate previously unheard of in fashion at the time. But unlike the fleeting trends that seem to sweep the world in 2024, Monsieur Dior’s work has proved its ability to stand the test of time. Monsieur Dior’s designs fed bold, feminine desires in a post-war world hungry for glamour and romance. His success was immediate – just a year after his debut, Monsieur Dior opened his first New York City store on Fifth Avenue and 57th Street, bringing a Parisian savoir-faire to American shores.
His impeccable tailoring and innovative silhouettes soon earned him the admiration of royalty and fashion icons alike. In 1949, Monsieur Dior designed the off-the-shoulder silk organza gown that Princess Margaret wore for her 21st birthday, solidifying his status as the go-to designer for the world’s elite. Now in the collection of the London Museum (formerly known as Museum of London), this dress was immortalised in her birthday portrait, and became one of the most famous royal images of the 20th century.
Designers Who Shaped the Brand
After Monsieur Dior’s sudden passing in 1957, a series of illustrious designers took the helm, each leaving their own unique stamp on the house. The first was a young Yves Saint Laurent, who joined the brand at just 19 years old in 1955. When Monsieur Dior died unexpectedly aged 52, Saint Laurent was thrust into the spotlight, debuting his first collection at the tender age of 21. In 1958, he introduced a new silhouette that subverted Dior’s New Look, featuring lighter flowy dresses and shorter hemlines that captured a more youthful, rebellious spirit. Saint Laurent’s tenure was short-lived, however, as he was called to serve in the French army in 1960.
Discover Other Christian Dior by Marc Bohan Creations
Next came Marc Bohan, who brought a quieter elegance to the brand during his 30-year tenure. Among his notable contributions was the creation of the iconic Dior Oblique monogram, a symbol that remains central to the brand’s identity today. Under Bohan’s direction, Dior Haute Couture was formally established, and the brand began to expand further into accessories and ready-to-wear collections. In 1981, Bernard Arnault and his investment group acquired Dior after its previous parent company, the Willot Group, filed for bankruptcy, ushering in a new era of growth and modernisation.
The 1990s saw the arrival of the Italian designer Gianfranco Ferré, whose tenure introduced the Lady Dior bag, initially named Chouchou (“favourite” in French) and later renamed in honour of Princess Diana. This iconic handbag featured Dior’s distinctive cannage pattern – a tribute to Napoleon III’s cane chairs, which were popularised in Dior’s boutiques – and the lucky charms spelling out “D.I.O.R.” nodded to the ones that Monsieur Dior himself had carried as good luck talismans.
John Galliano’s arrival at Dior in 1996 precipitated a bold new era for the brand. Galliano was the maison’s first British creative director and transformed its aesthetic with daring theatrics and opulent designs. His tenure was a masterclass in honouring Dior's rich heritage while introducing bold, provocative elements that captured the rebellious spirit of the times. The now-iconic Saddle Bag was launched in 1999 and grew to global acclaim after appearing in the crook of Sarah Jessica Parker’s arm in Sex and the City. By 2001, Dior’s accessories sales had reportedly increased by 60 percent, according to WWD.
Discover Other Christian Dior by John Galliano Creations
Following Galliano’s departure, Raf Simons took over the reins at the maison, bringing a minimalist yet futuristic edge to Dior. Though his time at the house was brief, Simons’ impact was significant, notably securing Rihanna as the first Black ambassador for the brand and introducing the timeless asymmetric double-pearl Tribales earrings.
Maria Grazia Chiuri, the maison’s current creative director, made history as the first woman to lead Dior. She has infused the house with a bold, feminist ideology, often referencing Galliano’s fantastical collections with her own feminine twist. Chiuri has also overseen the reinvention of classic designs such as the Lady Dior bag, with the introduction of the Lady D-Lite and the Lady 95.22 both featuring the iconic cannage stitching.
Bags With Lasting Legacy
Dior’s legacy does not just comprise its couture gowns – its accessories have become symbols of luxury and status. The Lady Dior bag, with its cannage pattern and “D.I.O.R.” charms, is an icon in its own right, carried by royalty and celebrities alike. Princess Diana received the bag as a diplomatic gift from the First Lady of France in 1995, and its allure has only grown since. Other celebrities and royals known to own this iconic bag include Paris Hilton, Rihanna, Angelina Jolie, Marion Cotillard and Camilla, Queen consort of the United Kingdom.
The Saddle Bag, launched by Galliano in 1999, cemented its status as a must-have It-girl accessory after its appearance on Sex and the City. While Galliano has never officially confirmed his source of inspiration, many believe the Saddle Bag derives from Helmut Newton’s 1976 photograph Saddle I, Paris. The provocative image features a jodhpur-clad model on her hands and knees wearing a riding saddle across her back. The stirrups, hanging in the shape of a “D”, are reminiscent of the bag's distinct design. The Saddle Bag made on-and-off appearances on runways in the early aughts before being reintroduced more permanently by Chiuri in 2018.
A more recent addition to Dior’s lineup of iconic bags is the Book Tote, introduced by Chiuri in 2018. Originally crafted from canvas and often adorned with the Dior Oblique motif first introduced in 1967 by Bohan, the Book Tote was designed as a functional day bag. Each of the original designs is hand-finished by Dior artisans and takes more than 37 hours and at least 1.5 million stitches to complete. The Book Tote’s spacious, boxy structure and customisable designs make it both a statement piece and a versatile addition to the modern wardrobe, embodying Dior’s blend of heritage and innovation.
The 30 Montaigne bag, launched in 2019, fuses Dior's legacy with contemporary elegance. Named after the legendary Parisian address where Monsieur Dior's fashion house began, the bag embodies timelessness with its sleek silhouette and metal clasp. Its refined details, like the “CD” closure inspired by Dior perfumes, and the embossed “30 Montaigne” signature on the back, evoke Dior’s heritage while offering functional luxury. With multiple compartments and versatile styling options, this minimal, structured design is a modern classic that encapsulates the brand’s timeless elegance while nodding to its historic roots.
Dior at Sotheby’s
Ready to start? Catch up on some of the incredible pieces Sotheby’s has sold in the past and discover coveted creations in Fashion Icons closing 17 December 2024.
