The Chanel Flap Bag: Iconic Since 1955

Few accessories in the world of fashion are as universally recognized and celebrated as the Chanel Flap Bag. First introduced in 1955 by Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel, this iconic handbag revolutionized women’s fashion by combining elegance with practicality. Since its debut, the Chanel Flap Bag has evolved through innovative reinterpretations while staying true to its timeless heritage. From the original 2.55 to the modern-day variations like the Classic Double Flap and Chanel 19, this handbag represents an enduring symbol of sophistication and style.

In February 1955, Coco Chanel designed the 2.55 Flap Bag, a creation that redefined how women carried their essentials. Unlike the cumbersome clutches of the time, the 2.55 Flap introduced the first shoulder strap, liberating women’s hands and signaling a new era of functional fashion. This groundbreaking design featured an adjustable chain strap, a practical back slip pocket, and a deep burgundy leather lining—a detail inspired by Chanel’s childhood uniform at the Aubazine Abbey convent in France.

The bag’s signature diamond quilting, inspired by the jackets worn by jockeys at the racetrack, added a distinctive touch of elegance. These thoughtful design elements made the 2.55 Flap Bag an instant classic, embodying both innovation and timeless style. Decades later, it remains a cherished staple in fashion, celebrated for its practicality and luxurious craftsmanship.

When Karl Lagerfeld took the reins as Chanel’s creative director in 1983, he honored the legacy of the 2.55 while infusing it with his own artistic vision. He introduced the Classic Double Flap, which featured a leather-woven chain strap and the now-iconic interlocking Double C turn-lock closure.

The Classic Double Flap offered an array of customization options, including various quilting patterns (classic diamond or youthful chevron), leathers, sizes, and hardware finishes. Unlike its predecessor, the Double Flap design included an additional interior flap, adding structure and elegance while enhancing functionality. Rumor has it that Coco Chanel herself used the discreet zip pocket under the outer flap to store her love letters, adding an air of mystery and romance to the bag’s story.

Handcrafted at Chanel’s Metiers d’Art workshops, each Classic Double Flap requires over 15 hours and 180 meticulous steps to complete. Decades later, the Classic Double Flap, now known as the 11.12, continues to captivate collectors and fashion enthusiasts alike, solidifying its place as a timeless icon.

In 2010, Chanel introduced the Mini Flap, a compact yet functional variation of the Classic Flap Bag. Perfectly aligned with the modern mini bag trend, the Mini Flap became a favorite for its versatility as both a shoulder and crossbody bag. Despite its smaller size, it remains large enough to carry daily essentials, offering practicality without compromising style.

While retaining the signature elements of the Classic Flap—such as the interwoven leather chain and CC turn-lock closure—the Chanel Mini Flap omits the double flap, giving it a lighter, more streamlined design. Its smaller size and slightly lower price point make it an appealing option for Chanel enthusiasts, and its high demand ensures it remains a staple in boutiques worldwide.

Introduced in 2019, the Chanel 19 Flap Bag represents a bold and contemporary take on the classic Chanel aesthetic. Designed by Karl Lagerfeld and Virginie Viard for the Fall/Winter 2019 collection, it was Lagerfeld’s final contribution to Chanel’s legacy before his passing.

The Chanel 19 stands out with its slouchy construction, oversized diamond quilting, and three-tone chain hardware in silver, aged gold, and ruthenium. A top handle chain adds to its casual yet chic appeal, making it a versatile option for modern lifestyles. Although it embraces a more relaxed silhouette, the Chanel 19 pays homage to the original 2.55 and Classic Flap designs, blending tradition with innovation.

From its revolutionary debut in 1955 to its modern interpretations, the Chanel Flap Bag has remained a cornerstone of luxury and style. Each iteration—from the 2.55 and Classic Double Flap to the Mini Flap and Chanel 19—tells a story of innovation, craftsmanship, and timeless appeal. Whether carried on the red carpet or styled casually for everyday wear, the Chanel Flap Bag continues to be a beloved symbol of elegance and sophistication. Its enduring legacy proves that great design transcends time, making it not just a handbag but a piece of fashion history.

Sotheby’s provides exclusive access to a curated selection of Chanel bags from its long established global network of sellers. As a leading marketplace, Sotheby's offers pristine Chanel bags in the most coveted colors and sizes, as well as Limited Edition Chanel pieces. Our handbag specialists are dedicated to sourcing the most desirable Chanel bags from collectors around the world.

Sotheby’s offers multiple ways to purchase Chanel bags, including online and in person at our locations in New York, Hong Kong, Zurich, Paris, and London. We also provide a concierge service to help source specific Chanel bags not available online.

While Chanel bags in pristine condition often command a premium over retail, Sotheby’s offers a curated selection of these bags in a variety of the most sought-after colors and sizes through our marketplace. By shopping with Sotheby’s, you can purchase a store-fresh Chanel bag without the need to visit a physical store. While Chanel boutiques offer these coveted designs, their inventory is often limited, making it challenging to find a specific color, style, or size. Many buyers turn to Sotheby’s not only to discover the exact Chanel bag they’re seeking but also to avoid the lengthy wait and uncertainty associated with boutique availability. While we always recommend building a relationship with a Chanel Sales Associate, Sotheby’s can save you valuable time and streamline your Chanel acquisition process.

One of the greatest advantages of shopping in a global luxury marketplace is the chance to discover unique, one-of-a-kind Chanel pieces and rare, limited-edition bags no longer available at Chanel boutiques. Our curated selection of Chanel bags is continuously refreshed, ensuring that you’ll always find something new and exclusive.

Sotheby's always has a curated selection of the top Chanel bags available for immediate purchase. Sotheby's also sells Chanel bags at auction in New York, Paris, Zurich and Hong Kong. Expect to find rare and collectible Flap and Mini Flap bags in every sale in addition to other popular Chanel bags in pristine condition in the newest colors. Sotheby's handbag sales include rare Chanel bags in limited edition colorways.

Prices for Chanel bags start at $3,000, with the Micro Mini Flap bag representing the entry-level option. Prices for the most sought-after limited-edition and rare Chanel pieces range from $15,000 to $30,000.

• Explore upcoming handbag auctions in New York, London, Switzerland, Paris, and Hong Kong.
• Speak to a Salon Associate in New York, Zurich, London, Paris, or Hong Kong to schedule an appointment.
• Contact a Handbag Specialist about selling a Chanel bag.

Trust our worldwide network of leading handbag specialists from a globally renowned auction house established in 1744.