The Art and Craftsmanship of Buccellati High Jewelry

Buccellati is an Italian luxury jewelry brand known for its exquisite craftsmanship and timeless designs. The brand's history in high jewelry is rooted in strong Italian tradition and artistry dating back to the early 20th century. Mario Buccellati founded Buccellati. He opened the first Buccellati store in 1919 in Milan. Mario Buccellati was inspired by Renaissance-era goldsmithing techniques and aimed to revive these ancient methods by creating jewelry that felt like wearable art. Buccellati’s style is characterized by intricate engraving, texturing, and gold and silver in ways that mimic delicate fabrics like lace and tulle. Buccellati became known for its ability to blend Italian Renaissance and Baroque influences with contemporary style. Buccellati's high jewelry is prized for its unparalleled craftsmanship, with each piece requiring hundreds of hours of skilled work. The brand's high jewlery legacy is defined by a blend of tradition and innovation, with its iconic designs continuing to be celebrated by collectors and jewelry connoisseurs.

The brand's high jewelry pieces featured meticulously hand-engraved designs, ornate metalwork, and the generous use of precious gems such as diamonds, rubies, and sapphires. Buccellati also became famous for their unique ways of working with gold, creating pieces with a soft, velvety appearance known as the "rigato" or "millerighe" texture. When creating the jewels he looked to achieve a naturalistic quality and used different styles of engraving: Rigato, which is the process of engraving parallel lines which gives the metal a silky appearance. The second design technique is Telato, where cross-hatched lines are used to add more of a texture. Both techniques have been employed in this demi-parure along with pearls and diamonds. Another technique Buccellati embraced was segrinato which was the engraving of small, overlapping lines, which gave an almost velvet-like texture.

The Macri Collection highlights Buccellati's highlights the jewelry house’ signature engraving technique called the “rigato effect”. Skilled artisans at Buccellati use fine engraving tools to apply these parallel lines by hand. The process requires extreme precision and patience leading to a beautifully textured surface that has depth, and dimension, and maintains refined elegance. What makes the rigato effect so impressive in the Macri Collection is how it transforms a solid piece of gold into something that appears light and soft - almost as if it were a delicate fabric rather than metal. The hand-engraving allows the jewelry to shimmer subtly in the light, without the need for excessive ornamentation. The "rigato" effect is one of Buccellati's most iconic and distinctive techniques, representing the pinnacle of their handmade craftsmanship. This Emerald and Diamond Buccellati Cuff sold at Sotheby’s auction in 2024 for 889,000 HKD approximately $115,000. This cuff displays the iconic rigato effect and beautifully combines it with fine diamonds and gemstones.

Within the Buccellati high jewelry world, the Tulle collection is one of the more intricate and sought-after designs. The design was inspired by the delicate texture of tulle fabric. Sometimes it is also referred to as the honeycomb design. It was invented by the son of Mario Buccellati: Gianmaria Buccellati. The type of fabric this design pattern is inspired by is usually seen in haute couture clothing, wedding gowns, and ballet costumes. All jewlery within this collection is made using 18 karet gold, diamonds, and gemstones. The result of the tulle is a “honeycomb design” that is a signature of the house. The handcrafted lace designs have become synonymous with the brand and are popular collector items. When items from Buccellati’s high jewlery Tulle collection have come to the secondary market they have fetched high prices. This Buccellati Diamond Bangle was sold at a Sothebys auction in 2023 for 889,000 HKD approximately $115,000. The Tulle collection is one of the brand's more modern collections within the century-old company however, it is a standout design loved by many high jewelry collectors.

Gianmaria Buccellati was a renowned Italian jeweler and the son of Mario Buccellati, who founded the Buccellati jewelry house in 1919. Born in 1929, Gianmaria took over the family business and expanded it internationally, helping to cement Buccellati's reputation as one of the world's leading luxury jewelry brands. Gianmaria was known for his dedication to traditional craftsmanship and his artistic approach to jewelry design, often drawing inspiration from the Renaissance and Baroque eras. Under his leadership, Buccellati became famous for its signature engraving techniques, such as the honeycomb or tulle pattern, and its unique combinations of gold, silver, and precious stones. His high jewelry creations are some of the most intricate and iconic pieces ever created by the house. His necklaces and demi-parure sets have sold for record-breaking prices at auction. This Gianmaria Buccellati Diamond Demi-Parure is a stunning example of his mastery of high jewelry craftsmanship. It sold at Sothebys auction for 572,000 HKD, approximately $73,000. The pieces are known to stand out and are highly prized by collectors. Today, Buccellati remains one of the most prestigious names in luxury jewelry, renowned for its artistic approach and the exceptional quality of its hand-engraved masterpieces.

Sotheby's often has impressive Buccellati High Jewelry creations available at auction. Sotheby's also has a curated selection of Buccellati jewelry available for immediate purchase on marketplace. If you would like to view a Buccellati jewelry creation, a salon specialist would be happy to assist. Sotheby's is also able to source Buccellati jewelry from its global supplier network.

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