The 5 Most Expensive Rolex Day Date Watches Sold at Auction

T he Rolex Day-Date was introduced in 1956, combining both technical innovation with a design that still remains striking over six decades later. In this guide we recap the history and legacy of this iconic watch before summarizing the five most examples sold by our global network of Rolex specialists.

The History and Legacy of the Rolex Day Date

The Rolex Day-Date was introduced in 1956, twelve years after Rolex pioneered the first self-winding wristwatch with a date display (the Rolex Datejust). The Rolex Day Date upped the ante by becoming the world's first watch to display both the calendar date and the day of the week.

While that may seem rather simple today, when grand complications are a fixture of many watchmakers’ collections, this was a significant luxury for an everyday watch. In the 1950s, the serially-produced options were either time-only or the relatively new (and relatively uncommon) date models or utilitarian tool watches. The Day-Date was took the best of all of three and combined them into one, refined design that’s greater than the sum of its parts.

From a functional standpoint, the complication was suited to people with hectic schedules, those at the top of their field. This C-suite association was emphasized by the choice to exclusively produce the Rolex Day-Date in precious metals, originally either 18 carat yellow gold or platinum. Stylistically, the Rolex Day Date spoke the same design language as the Rolex Datejust: a cyclops crystal magnifying the date display, a quintessentially mid-century “pie pan” dial, a smooth or fluted bezel.

The Origin of the Rolex President Nickname

The one significant detail introduced by the Rolex Day Date was what is now known as the “President” bracelet: comprised of three-part, semicircle links with alternating brushed and polished finishes. The new bracelet design essentially split the difference between the “Jubilee” and “Oyster” styles that existed in Rolex’s collection, achieving a balance of eye-catching shine and clean-lined decorum. But, for all the visual similarities between the Rolex Day Date and previous models, the new watch was unmistakably in a league of its own. The Rolex Datejust, more widely available in steel, was an elevated workhorse watch for the everyman whereas the Day-Date was an unabashedly luxurious timepiece for an elite few.

Rolex had already begun establishing itself as a purveyor to the world’s most powerful players, having gifted Rolex Datejust watches to Winston Churchill and Dwight D. Eisenhower for their pivotal roles in winning World War II. At the time, Eisenhower was still a 5-star general in the U.S. military but he would continue to don his Datejust after ascending to the Presidency—one unfounded theory as to where the Day-Date got its moniker. Eisenhower’s successor, John F. Kennedy, actually was bestowed a Rolex Day Date, though it never graced his wrist.

Rolex Day Date Reference 18059 Rainbow Khanjar Circa 1984, 983,000 GBP

This Rolex Day Date Reference 18059 Rainbow Khanjar was sold for 983,000 GBP in February 2022. This remarkable Rolex President was notable for both the craftsmanship on display and its fascinating history. Commissioned by Sultan Qaboos bin Said Al Said of Oman, this rare timepiece was one of only five produced in 1984. The watch was crafted in 18k white gold and featured a stunning pavé diamond dial, accented by a bezel set with an array of colored sapphires that matched the hour markers. What truly sets this piece apart is the engraved Khanjar - the national symbol of Oman - on the case back. This historically significant mark has made Omani-signed Rolex watches highly coveted by collectors.

This particular watch holds a special place in the annals of Rolex history, as it was presented directly by Sultan Qaboos to its original owner. It remained in new old stock condition and was previously stored unworn in a safe. Its rarity is further emphasized by the fact that it was the first of its kind to be publicly offered at auction. The combination of its immaculate condition, historical significance, and the exotic allure of the Khanjar engraving makes it an unparalleled find for collectors.

Rolex Day Date Reference 1803 Custom Circa 1969, 3,906,000 HKD

Day Date Rolex — Rolex Day Date Reference 1803 Custom

This Rolex Day Date Reference 1803 was sold for 3,906,000 HKD in October 2021. This intriguing Rolex is a testament to the vision of its original owner, who sought a Rolex Day Date with the robust aesthetic of a Rolex Submariner or Rolex Sea-Dweller. This watch was delivered in 1969, entirely crafted in white gold and featuring a custom dial with a black matte finish. The piece was accented by luminous dots and baton numerals - elements typically found on Professional sports models rather than on a Rolex Day Date. Its luminous Mercedes hands and the Rolex Submariner-style dial gave the watch a rugged yet refined appearance and set it apart from traditional Day Date Rolex designs.

This watch first surfaced on the auction market in 2017, creating a buzz among collectors and scholars due to its unique customization. The original owner's bold customization choices have left a lasting legacy that transformed this Rolex President into a rare and intriguing piece of Rolex watch history celebrated for its unconventional blend of elegance and sportiness.

Rolex Day Date Reference 18008 Circa 1986, 252,000 USD

This Rolex Day Date Reference 18008 was sold for 252,000 USD in June 2022. This Day Date Rolex is an exquisite example of the brand’s ability to blend luxury with artistry. This 1986 model is one of the few Reference 18008 watches known to exist, each distinguished by a unique dial configuration. The present example features a hand-engraved textured yellow gold dial, accented with ruby hour markers and diamond minute markers, creating a visually striking contrast. The bezel is equally remarkable, with a gradient effect achieved by setting baguette-cut rubies on the upper half and sapphires on the lower half.

The brilliance of this timepiece is not just in its gemstones but in the subtle transitions of color that can only be truly appreciated in person. Offered by its original owner, this Rolex President has been preserved in exceptional condition, making it a rare find for collectors who value both the beauty and the historical significance of Rolex's rare gem-set creations.

Rolex Day Date Reference 228206 Circa 2018, 214,200 CHF

This Rolex Day Date Reference 228206 was sold for 214,200 CHF in May 2022. This Rolex Day Date example stands out not only for its luxurious materials but also for its rare and highly collectible Eastern-Arabic dial. Introduced in 1956, the Rolex Day Date has been synonymous with exclusivity, epitomized in the platinum offerings. This particular watch features a silvered blue dial with Eastern-Arabic numerals, a detail that significantly enhances its desirability among collectors.

This example was accompanied by a full set, including the original box, papers, and various accessories. The platinum case, coupled with the unique dial, made this a standout piece, offering a blend of cultural significance and luxury that few other watches could match. This made this rare Rolex President highly sought-after by Rolex collectors.

Rolex Day Date Reference 18206 Circa 1989, 190,500 USD

This Rolex Day Date Reference 18206 was sold for 190,500 USD in December 2023. The platinum construction coupled with an Onyx dial was a perfect blend of understated luxury and rarity. The platinum Rolex Day Date models often appear similar to steel or white gold to the untrained eye, but the smooth bezel and distinctive weight give away their prestigious nature. This particular reference features a rare Onyx dial with silver printing and matching aperture frames, elements that are hallmarks of a platinum Rolex Day Date with an Onyx dial.

The no-lume handset and the monochromatic effect created by the Onyx dial gave this watch a modern and sophisticated appearance. In collector-grade condition, its elegance and rarity made it an exceptional piece for collectors who appreciate the subtle nuances of Rolex's design and craftsmanship.

Summary

The Rolex President remains one of the most iconic models in the world of horology, a symbol of prestige and timeless elegance. The top five selling Rolex Day Date watches at Sotheby’s each tell a unique story, showcasing the diversity and artistry that Rolex has brought to this line over the decades. From rare commissions for royalty to custom designs that blend luxury with sportiness, these watches are more than just timepieces. They act as pieces of history that continue to captivate collectors and enthusiasts alike. Whether it is the exotic allure of the Khanjar engraving or the understated luxury of a platinum Onyx dial, each of these watches represent the history and prestige of the Rolex brand.