Take a Closer Look at Rare and Collectible Van Cleef & Arpels Rings
Learn more about what to look for when buying rare and collectible Van Cleef & Arpels rings.
Brief History Van Cleef and Arpels
Van Cleef & Arpels is a French luxury jewelry company founded in 1895 and opened its first boutique in 1906. The Van Cleef and Arpels signature style developed through the 20th century, shaped by diverse influences including nature, orientalism, couture, ballet and an imaginary world of fairytale and fantasy. Van Cleef is also known for technical ingenuity and the quest for the highest quality diamonds and gemstones.
In 1999, Richemont acquired 60% of Van Cleef & Arpels and then increased its ownership to 80% in 2001. Richemont owns 19 luxury brands including Cartier and Buccellati. In 2023, Sotheby's sold over $20 million in Van Cleef jewelry with prices ranging from over $1 million to $5,000. Van Cleef & Arpels is among the most sought after luxury jewelry with nearly 1.5 million google searches per month. While its most famous design is the Van Cleef Alhambra, Van Cleef & Arpels rich tradition in craftsmanship, innovation and gemstone selection is at the heart of its most collectible rings.
Rare & Collectible Van Cleef & Arpels Rings
Whether you are a seasoned collector or new admirer of Van Cleef & Arpels, we have highlighted four rare and collectible Van Cleef & Arpels rings. While some of these specific styles may be hard to source or no longer avaialable, these Van Cleef & Arpels rings provide a foundation of important Van Cleef ring styles worth seeking out in the secondary market. We chose these Van Cleef & Arpels rings since they are timeless in their design and exhibit the quality and innovation that is the heritage of the maison.
1. Van Cleef & Arpels Ring: Mystery Setting
Van Cleef & Arpels rings featuring Mystery Set gemstones in a nature inspired design are highly desirable by collectors. The Van Cleef & Arpels Mystery Set technique of virtuoso gem-cutting and setting was patented in 1933. Each stone is specially cut and calibrated, each with a side groove, and then inserted, one by one, onto a framework of gold rails to create a mosaic, with no metal visible from the front. Rubies were the first and most popular stones used in the Van Cleef Mystery Set. Sapphires and emeralds (notoriously difficult to cut) were then used for the Van Cleef & Arpels Mystery Set. The unique technique floods the surface of the jewel with intense, velvety color, which lent itself to floral and foliate designs.
Additionally one of a kind or vintage Van Cleef & Arpels featuring butterflies are also highly collectible since it is a recurring motif since the early 1900s. The name Van Cleef & Arpels Kallima butterfly ring is one of the most expensive Van Cleef rings to sell at Sotheby's. It featured a pear-shaped fancy vivid yellow diamond weighing 5.43 carats, the wings mystery-set with calibré-cut emeralds, accented by brilliant-cut and baguette diamonds. Kallima derives from a genus of butterflies native to South-East Asia. Kallima butterflies are notable for the brightly coloured top surface of their wings. The bottom surface of the wings display more muted colours, allowing the butterflies to ward of predators by closing their wings to masquerade as far less tempting oak leaves.
2. Van Cleef & Arpels Ring: Stunning Gem Stone Solitaires
Van Cleef & Arpels has a rich history of sourcing exceptional gemstones since its founding when Alfred Van Cleef married Estelle Arpels, the daughter of a precious stones dealer in 1895. Since 1906, colored stones have been core to Van Cleef & Arpels creative process with selected stones needing to pass the most demanding criteria for quality. Van Cleef & Arpels founders have traveled the world to source the most incredible stones. In 1956, the “Neela Ranee,” better known as the “Blue Princess” was sourced from Bombay. This 114.30-carat oval sapphire with its deep, velvety blue hue became the pendant of a necklace. Impressive sized solitaires from Van Cleef & Arpels are sought after by collectors and luxury buyers seeking a unique solitaire due the exceptional quality of the gem stones.
3. Van Cleef & Arpels Ring: Two Butterfly Between the Finger
Van Cleef & Arpels created the Between the Finger rings in the 1970s. These rings were both innovative and inventive allowing two distinct motifs to be held together in one ring. Butterflies and other whimsical nature motifs are consistently used in Van Cleef & Arpels rings along with technical ingenuity like the Between the Finger design. Butterflies have been in important motif for Van Cleef & Arpels since 1906 due to their ethereal and graceful nature.
4. Van Cleef & Arpels Ring: Diamond Lotus Flora
The lotus flower is a symbol of beauty, purity and fulfillment. The Van Cleef & Arpels diamond lotus flower ring is an important part of its Flora theme collection. Flowers have also been an important brand motif for Van Cleef & Arpels since 1907. Van Cleef is inspired to create jewelry that recreates the lightness and vitality of flowers. Van Cleef & Arpels ring collectors seek out the maison's floral designs due to the heritage of this motif and the beauty created from these unique pieces.
Buying and Selling Van Cleef & Arpels Rings At Sotheby's
Sotheby's often has impressive Van Cleef & Arpels rings available at auction. Sotheby's also has a curated selection of rare and collectible Van Cleef & Arpels rings available for immediate purchase on marketplace. If you would like to view a Van Cleef & Arpels ring, a salon specialist would be happy to assist. Sotheby's is also able to source rare and collectible Van Cleef & Arpels rings from its global supplier network.
- Explore upcoming jewelry at auctions in New York, London, Switzerland, Paris, and Hong Kong.
- Speak to a Salon Associate in New York, Zurich or Hong Kong to schedule an appointment.
- Speak to a Jewelry Specialist about selling a Van Cleef & Arpels ring.
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