Rare and Collectible Van Cleef & Arpels Earrings
Learn more about the most collectible Van Cleef & Arpels earrings.
Brief History of Van Cleef & Arpels
Van Cleef & Arpels is a French luxury jewelry company that opened its first boutique in 1906. The first boutique was located at 22 Place Vendome in Paris, across the street from the Ritz Hotel. This location was and still is the center of luxury goods in Paris. Van Cleef & Arpels has always been known for its exclusive clientele including Grace Kelly, Elizabeth Taylor, the Duchess of Windsor, Marlene Dietrich, Barbara Hutton, and Princess Fawzia of Egypt. The Van Cleef and Arpels signature style developed through the 20th century was shaped by diverse influences including nature, orientalism, couture, ballet and an imaginary world of fairytale and fantasy. Van Cleef & Arpels is also known for technical innovation and the quest for the highest quality diamonds and gemstones.
In 1999, Richemont acquired 60% of Van Cleef and increased its ownership to 80% in 2001. Richemont also owns 19 other luxury brands including Cartier and Buccellati. In 2023, Sotheby's sold over $20 million in Van Cleef & Arpels jewelry with prices ranging from $5,000 to over $1 million. Van Cleef & Arpels is one of the most popular luxury jewelry designer brands with nearly 1.5 million google searches per month. If you are looking to add rare and collectible Van Cleef & Arpels earrings to your collection, read on to learn more about four distinct styles to consider.
Rare & Collectible Van Cleef & Arpels Earrings
Whether you are a seasoned collector or new admirer of Van Cleef & Arpels, we have highlighted four rare and collectible Van Cleef & Arpels earrings. While some of these specific styles may be hard to source, these provide a foundation for Van Cleef & Arpels earrings styles you should seek out in the secondary market. We chose these Van Cleef & Arpels earrings since they are timeless in their design and exhibit the quality, craftsmanship and innovation that has been a hallmark of Van Cleef & Arpels since its founding.
Van Cleef & Arpels Earrings: Mystery Set
The Van Cleef & Arpels Mystery Set or Serti Invisible technique of virtuoso gem-cutting and setting was patented in 1933. Iconic and instantly recognizable, Van Cleef & Arpels’ mystery-set jewels are prized the world over for their exemplary design and craftsmanship. The renowned maison was granted the French patent for its “serti mystérieux” in 1933, a technique originally limited to flat, inflexible surfaces using square and rectangular-cut stones. The process was further developed to incorporate a variety of cuts to fill in spaces and create curved areas with graceful transitions. In addition to the implied movement of these undulating surfaces, the technique has also been employed to produce nacklaces of extraordinary fluidity. Rubies were the first and most popular stones used in the Van Cleef Mystery Set. Sapphires and emeralds (notoriously difficult to cut) were then used for the Van Cleef & Arpels Mystery Set.
It takes hundreds of hours by a crew of artisanal craftsmen to produce a single mystery-set jewel. The stones, typically sapphires and rubies, are selected for their uniformity of color with many falling victim to the cutting wheel, making it a particularly costly process. The secret to the “mystery setting” technique is the precision with which the stones are cut so they may be slotted into a wire framework that is visible only from the underside. The result is a monochromatic mosaic of pure color, held together without any noticeable metal.
Van Cleef & Arpels Earrings: Snowflake
Van Cleef & Arpels Snowflake High jewelry collection was first introduced in the 1940s. The collection features round diamonds in winter motifs in various sizes with different diamond weights. This collection from Van Cleef & Arpels is highly desired by collectors due its long history as part of the core High Jewelry collection. While there are many variations of the Van Cleef & Arpels Snowflake earrings, they are all timeless and meticulously crafted by master artisans. As is the case for all Van Cleef & Arpels High Jewelry earrings, the choice of each gem stone and diamond is carefully considered to create a final piece of beauty and innovation.
Van Cleef & Arpels Earrings: Transformable
Van Cleef & Arpels earrings that are transformable or passe-partout are another important category for collectors. Many of the most dramatic Van Cleef & Arpels high jewelry diamond earrings were designed to be seamlessly worn both as dramatic drop earrings and stunning studs. The flexibility of these designs were partly a result of customer demand but also a way for Van Cleef & Arpels to further exhibit its skill and technical innovation in jewelry design. Van Cleef & Arpels transformable earrings from the early to mid 1900s are among the most collectible since many of these designs were custom pieces.
Van Cleef & Arpels Earrings: High Jewelry Gem Stones & Diamonds
Van Cleef & Arpels High Jewelry earrings featuring exceptional colored gem stones is a reflection of its early heritage. Earrings featuring over 11 carat Colombian emeralds counted in platinum with diamond baguettes and pear shaped brilliant diamonds are a masterpiece in design and craftsmanship. Van Cleef & Arpels is one of the most renowned maisons of High jewelry since it built its reputation by creating dramatic jewelry to wear with formal evening attire for royalty and the wealthy elite. The selection of the diamonds and gem stones to create these timeless pieces are a marriage of art and craft. Van Cleef & Arpels high jewelry earrings remain popular with royalty for formal galas and celebrities for red carpet events.
Buying and Selling Van Cleef & Arpels Earrings at Sotheby's
Sotheby's often has rare and collectible Van Cleef & Arpels earrings available at auction. Sotheby's also has a curated selection of Van Cleef & Arpels earrings available for immediate purchase on marketplace. If you would like to view a pair of Van Cleef earrings, a salon specialist would be happy to assist. Sotheby's is also able to source Van Cleef & Arpels earrings from its global supplier network.
- Explore upcoming jewelry at auctions in New York, London, Switzerland, Paris, and Hong Kong.
- Speak to a Salon Associate in New York, Zurich or Hong Kong to schedule an appointment.
- Speak to a Jewelry Specialist about selling Van Cleef & Arpels earrings.
Trust our worldwide network of leading jewelry specialists from a globally renowned auction house with a 280-year history.
