New Takes on Beloved Jewelry

Weekly visits to the Metropolitan Museum of Art inspired American jewelry designer David Webb to incorporate global themes into his work. This resulted in creations like the Osiris cuff, first made in 1970 as a hand-hammered gold piece with diamonds. This new version adds coral, lapis lazuli, turquoise and platinum. Price on request, davidwebb.com

Of the house’s many signature designs, Van Cleef & Arpels’ Snowflake motif stands out for its timeless wearability. A simple diamond cluster refined, perfected and rearranged in infinite iterations, including this 18-karat white gold necklace. $860,000, vancleefarpels.com

French jewelry designer Suzanne Belperron created sculptural jewels of striking modernity hat continue to inspire. She was first drawn to the form of the wave in her teens and revisited the motif after World War II. The Wave cuff here features yellow and green beryl, morganite and Belperron’s signature 22-karat “virgin gold.” $49,500, belperron.com

The serpent is one of jewelry’s most enduring subjects, from ancient times through the 19th century, art deco, the 1970s and beyond. Bulgari’s Serpenti line, which turned 75 last year, is a classic of the genre, featuring pieces such as this rose-gold ring with pavé diamonds and black onyx. $18,100, bulgari.com

French designer Jean Schlumberger was an artist whose medium happened to be precious metals and gemstones. He joined Tiffany & Co. in 1956 and changed high jewelry forever. The house has renewed focus on Schlumberger’s influence. This 18-karat yellow gold necklace, with platinum-diamond accents, traces its history back to Schlumberger’s debut year. Price on request, tiffany.com

Cartier’s Grain de Café theme, first envisioned by creative director Jeanne Toussaint in 1938, elevated the coffee bean with wit and elegance. Reintroduced in 2023, the design remains as charming as when Grace Kelly wore it in the ’50s. This new ring is made of 18-karat yellow gold, platinum and diamonds. Price on request, cartier.com