Learn more about the Most Expensive Cartier Panthère Jewelry

Learn more about the Most Expensive Cartier Panthère Jewelry

Read on for the collectors guide to the timeless Cartier Panthère Jewelry collection.
Read on for the collectors guide to the timeless Cartier Panthère Jewelry collection.

History of Cartier Pantheré

Cartier's earliest connection to the panther was an advertisement in 1913 called Dame à la Panthère featuring an elegant model and a sleek black cat. According to some, Louis Cartier chose the panther in tribute to Jeanne Toussaint, who he called his ‘Petite Pantheré (she also famously wore a full-length coat made of panther fur). By the close of 1913, Toussaint had been hired by Cartier to be its director of bags, accessories and objects. The working relationship between Louis Cartier and Jeanne Toussaint flourished. Cartier shared his expertise in gemstones, diamonds, settings, and technique, while Toussaint contributed her joie de vivre, relentless creativity, and keen eye for contemporary fashions—especially the bold, geometric aesthetic of the Art Deco movement. In 1933, Toussaint was named director of Cartier’s luxury jewelry department, signaling one of the most recognizable and collectible eras in the house’s history.

Toussaint stepped away from Art Deco and entered the 1940s with a passion for sculptural and three-dimensional panther creations, typically set with white and yellow diamonds, emeralds and onyx. The first Cartier Pantheré jewel was crafted for the Duchess of Windsor, Wallace Simpson in 1948. The Cartier Pantheré brooch was gold and enamel set with a cabochon emerald. The success of the first Cartier Pantheré ring set off a chain reaction with the creation of Cartier Pantheré bracelets, drop earrings and pendants which became hugely desirable among European and American elite.

Three Cartier Panthere Rings

Most Expensive Cartier Pantheré

Take a closer look at four of the most expensive Cartier Pantheré jewelry set with diamonds and gemstones.

1. Cartier Panthère Necklace-Brooch $711,200

Cartier Panthère Necklace-Brooch Combination

This Cartier Panthère necklace and brooch combination with diamonds, sapphires and onyx sold for $711,200 in 2023. The Cartier Panthère necklace can be worn as a dramatic necklace and also as a brooch and necklace separately. The necklace is flexible and the panther's head turns and the paws move. The Cartier Panthère necklace features sapphires, diamonds, emeralds and onyx. The diamonds, stated to weigh a total of approximately 30.71 carats, are approximately F-G color, VVS-VS clarity. The sapphires, stated to weigh a total of approximately 16.57 carats, are medium blue and slightly included. The emeralds, stated to weigh a total of approximately 0.24 carat, are medium green and slightly included.

2. Cartier Panthère Necklace-Brooch, 1980s $710,00

Cartier Panthère Necklace - Brooch, 1980s

This iconic Cartier Panthère necklace sold in 2023 for 635,000 CHF or approximately $710,000. This is another spectacular Cartier Panthère necklace with a detachable panther pendant but featuring onyx and diamonds. The panther can be worn as a pendant or a brooch. The necklace is completed with pavé-set brilliant-cut diamonds and polished onyx. The front is designed as a panther with a polished onyx nose and pear-shaped emerald eyes. This necklace is a prime example of the creative spirit of the Cartier Panther motif.

3. Cartier Panthère Bangle $520,000

Cartier Panthère Bracelet

This spectacular Cartier 'Panthère' Diamond, Onyx and Emerald Bangle sold for over 4,000,000 HKD (or roughly $520,000) at Sotheby's in 2022. The diamond, onyx and emerald Cartier Pantheré bangle was designed with two contronting panthers. The Cartier bracelet has pavé-set brilliant-cut diamonds, highlighted with cabochon onyx spots and nose and pear-shaped emerald eyes and is mounted in platinum and 18 karat white gold.

4. Cartier Panthère Brooch $420,000

Cartier Panthère Brooch

This Cartier 'Panthère' Diamond, Sapphire, Emerald and Onyx Clip Brooch sold for for 3,300,000 HKD or approximately $420,000 in 2023. The signature panther is designed in pavé-set with brilliant-cut diamonds and highlighted with buff-top sapphires, with an onyx nose and pear-shaped emerald eyes. The brooch celebrates the panther's elegance, grace, power, and exquisite craftsmanship of the heritage house.

Advantages to Buying Cartier on the Secondary Market

1. Access

Sotheby’s provides exclusive access to a curated selection of Cartier jewelry from its long established global network of sellers. As a leading marketplace, Sotheby's offers pristine Cartier pieces in the most coveted designs and gemstones. Our jewelry specialists are dedicated to sourcing the most desirable Cartier pieces from collectors around the world.

2. Flexibility

Sotheby’s offers multiple ways to purchase Cartier jewelry, including online and in person at our locations in New York, Hong Kong, Zurich, Paris, and London. We also provide a concierge service to help source specific Cartier pieces not available online.

3. Value

While Cartier boutiques offer their iconic jewelry collections, finding specific designs, gemstones, or styles can sometimes be a challenge due to limited availability. Sotheby’s provides a curated selection of Cartier pieces, including rare and sought-after designs, available for purchase without the need to visit a physical store. Shopping with Sotheby’s allows you to discover exceptional Cartier jewelry, from vintage masterpieces to contemporary classics, all in one place. Whether you're searching for a timeless diamond engagement ring or a unique statement piece, Sotheby’s offers a seamless and efficient way to acquire the perfect Cartier treasure, saving you time while ensuring authenticity and quality.

4. Discovery

One of the greatest advantages of shopping in a global luxury marketplace is the chance to discover unique, one-of-a-kind Cartier pieces and rare, limited-edition jewelry no longer available at Cartier stores. Our curated selection of Cartier jewelry is continuously refreshed, ensuring that you’ll always find something new and exclusive.

Buy and Sell Cartier Panthère Jewelry at Sotheby's

Sotheby's often has rare and collectible Cartier Panthère Jewelry available at auction. Sotheby's also has a curated selection of Cartier Panthère available for immediate purchase on marketplace. If you would like to view a Cartier Panthère piece, a salon specialist would be happy to assist. Sotheby's is also able to source Cartier Panthère from its global supplier network.

The price of Cartier Panthère jewelry ranges from around $8,000 for gold and black enamel rings to over $200,000 for rare Cartier Panthère Fancy Colored Diamond necklaces. Rare vintage or custom designed Cartier jewelry is more expensive than a style that was made in larger quantities and is readily available on the secondary market.

Trust our worldwide network of leading jewelry specialists from a globally renowned auction house established in 1744.

Jewelry Buy Now

About the Author

More from Sotheby's

Stay informed with Sotheby’s top stories, videos, events & news.

Receive the best from Sotheby’s delivered to your inbox.

By subscribing you are agreeing to Sotheby’s Privacy Policy. You can unsubscribe from Sotheby’s emails at any time by clicking the “Manage your Subscriptions” link in any of your emails.

arrow Created with Sketch. Back To Top