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Jacques Selosse: The Estate Revolutionizing Champagne
Pioneers of Grower Champagnes and biodynamic wines, Jacques Selosse has a reputation as one of Champagne’s most innovative winemakers.
P art scientists and part philosophers, the Selosse family has reimagined what it means to be a Champagne producer by interpreting the expression of the vines and terroir into something transcendental. Selosse’s philosophy centers on minimal intervention, allowing the vines to reveal the true character of each plot. When you source from such exceptional vineyard sites, there is no need for heavy-handed manipulation.
The story began in the 1950s, back when Jacques Selosse was selling his fruit to other Champagne houses, with most going to Lanson. In 1964 Jacques created his first wine under his own label. This marked a new chapter, but it wasn’t until 1980 when Anselme took over, that the family started producing wines of true finesse and quality. Anselme’s vision transformed the estate: he reduced yields and shifted the focus to improving grape quality through advanced viticulture practices. Simultaneously, he pioneered biodynamic farming in the region, becoming the first in Champagne to adopt these methods. Today, the estate spans over 8.3 hectares, located primarily in the Cote des Blancs, including the renowned villages of Avize, Cramant, Oger, Le-Mesnil-sur-Oger, as well as Ay, Mareuil-sur-Aÿ and Ambonnay.
Selosse helped pioneer what we know as Grower Champagne or Récoltant-Manipulant (RM) in French. These are wines where the estate directly owns and cultivates the vineyards, in contrast to the larger Champagne houses that often source fruit from third-party growers.
Anselme cut his teeth in Burgundy in the 1970s, working at iconic domaines such as Coche-Dury, Domaine Leflaive and Domaine Comte Lafon. It was there that he discovered a critical truth: at the base of every great champagne lies a great wine. His Burgundy beginnings influenced him to take on Burgundian practices where terroir is so much of the conversation and focus and terroir-driven wines were somewhat unique at this point in Champagne.
Anselme redefined what Champagne could be, making wines of character and expression in a region where the prevailing style was clean and refreshing, but often lacking in nuance and complexity. He pushed boundaries, experimenting with fractional solera systems and meticulous bâtonnage to create wines with a distinctive identity.
Layers of complexity and character, enhanced by flor and extended oak aging, make these wines truly distinctive. This revolutionary method for Champagne fits perfectly and provides a wine that is stylish and evolved. They offer meditative experiences that provoke your thoughts and test your understanding of what Champagne should and could be. The contrasting elements of fresh fruits and pungent oxidative notes, all balanced out by fresh, lively acidity are one of the reasons why Selosse is such an inquisitive and interesting wine. Further, dosage is kept to a minimum, allowing purity and fruit to shine through. The style can be somewhat of an acquired taste, possessing a certain funk and gusto that typically isn’t found in large Champagne houses.
Guillaume Selosse took over in 2018, and by all accounts, he is every bit his father’s heir. Yet, rumors and lineage aside, how are his wines? Recently, I had the privilege of tasting Guillaume’s Largillier. The aromas of apple tart, Bartlett pear and a hint of amaretto, paired with soft, silky bubbles and crisp acidity, prove that Guillaume is not merely continuing the legacy – he is refining it.
Jacques Selosse has five primary Cuvees: Initial, Version Originale, Millesime, Substance and Rosé. Since 2010, they have introduced six single-vineyard bottlings, each representing their respective villages, and crafted using their solera-like system to maintain consistency while showcasing their unique identities.
The Selosse family has carved out a revered place in Champagne, garnering a devoted cult following. It’s rare to see their bottles at auction, especially in quantities larger than a few bottles. When they do appear, they command high prices, with their Millesime fetching over $2,500 per bottle in the best vintages. This scarcity and high demand have solidified their status as one of the most coveted producers in Champagne.
Two years ago, I tried the Rosé, and the experience is still vivid in my memory: sherry-esque, oxidative, nutty, with hints of gunpowder, roses and strawberries. It’s a contemplative wine that evolves with time, and to fully appreciate it, you’ll need more than one bottle. The color alone is seductive and sumptuous. If I close my eyes, I can almost taste it again. Rarely do wines leave such a lasting impression. It’s a feeling I chase, and I urge anyone who has the opportunity to try it at least once.
