Insider's Guide to Special Order HSS Hermès Birkin and Kelly Bags
Learn everything about Hermès Special Order (HSS) Birkin and Kelly bags, from choosing colors and materials to navigating the exclusive process.
Special Order HSS Hermès Bags
For fashion enthusiasts and collectors, a Hermès Birkin or Kelly bag represents the pinnacle of luxury and exclusivity. Yet, within the realm of Hermès craftsmanship lies an even more rarefied category: Special Order bags. Recognizable by the discreet horseshoe stamp (HSS) placed beside the Hermès brand logo, these bags are the ultimate expression of personalization, creativity, and prestige.
Special Order Hermès bags are a testament to the brand’s dedication to individuality and excellence. With roots in bespoke equestrian goods, Hermès has extended its customization expertise to create one-of-a-kind handbags for its most loyal clients. From selecting colors and leathers to unique design elements, Special Order Birkin and Kelly bags offer an unparalleled opportunity to own a personalized masterpiece. This guide explores the fascinating world of HSS Hermès bags, their history, customization options, and their standing in the resale market.
The History of Hermes Special Order Bags
Special Order bags are deeply embedded in Hermès’ history. The company’s origins in crafting bespoke equestrian gear naturally extended to their iconic handbags. The practice of creating custom designs has long been part of the Hermès ethos, but it wasn’t until 2006 that the horseshoe stamp (HSS) was introduced as a symbol of Special Order pieces. Before this, custom bags could only be identified by their unique qualities.
In some cases, custom designs have served as inspiration for mainline collections. The iconic Birkin bag itself originated as a custom piece created in 1984 for actress Jane Birkin. Similarly, the Birkin 30 size was introduced in the mid-1990s after clients requested smaller versions of the standard 35 and 40 cm Birkins.
Ultimate Customization: The Horizon Service
For those seeking even greater levels of exclusivity, Hermès offers its Horizon Service. This bespoke department works with clients to create original, one-of-a-kind designs, including handbags, luggage, furniture, and even custom interiors for yachts, private planes, or helicopters. The Horizon Service epitomizes the brand’s commitment to collaboration, craftsmanship, and innovation, ensuring no challenge is too ambitious.
Some Horizon Service creations have inspired regular production pieces, such as the Osier Wicker Fishing Bag and the R.M.S. suitcase. Others, like the Susan bag, remain unique to their original clients unless produced with explicit permission. This service represents the ultimate expression of Hermès’ artistry and dedication to personalized luxury.
Evolving HSS Customization Options
Over the years, the customization process for HSS Birkin and HSS Kelly bags has evolved. While clients could previously select up to three colors, recent options are limited to two. Special Order bags often feature a combination of solid and contrasting tones, with some showcasing a contrast-colored interior or stitching.
Beyond colors, clients can customize the leather type, stitching, and hardware. Contrast stitching highlights Hermès’ signature double-saddle technique, while exclusive hardware finishes like Brushed Palladium and Brushed Gold are almost exclusive to Special Orders. These thoughtful details allow each bag to stand apart as a unique creation.
Exotic HSS Birkin and Kelly Bags
For Hermès clients with unparalleled spending power, exotic Special Order bags represent the zenith of luxury. These bespoke creations often feature rare leathers like alligator or crocodile and command jaw-dropping prices on the secondary market. A standout example is a HSS Mini Kelly 20 II in Matte Kraft and Gris Perle Alligator, which sold for over $192,000 at a Sotheby’s auction in Hong Kong.
Exotic Special Orders may also include additional customizations, such as repositioned interior pockets, extended shoulder strap lengths for Kelly bags, or the addition of monogramming. However, monogramming is discouraged for clients who may consider reselling their bags in the future.
Resale Value of HSS Hermès Bags
In the secondary market, HSS bags represent a small but highly coveted segment, accounting for less than 15% of Hermès Birkins and Kellys sold at auction. On average, these bags fetch 50% higher prices than their standard counterparts.
What makes these bags so valuable is their exclusivity and often unique color combinations. While some combinations appeal to personal or seasonal tastes—such as Halloween-inspired black and orange or patriotic red, white, and blue—neutral designs are becoming increasingly popular for their universal appeal. Ultimately, HSS bags with harmonious and timeless color schemes tend to hold the highest value.
Advantages to Buying Hermès on the Secondary Market
1. Access
Sotheby's is able to provide access to a curated selection of Hermès bags from its long established global network of sellers. Sotheby's is a leading global marketplace that offers pristine Hermès bags in the most popular colors, materials and sizes along with rare Himalayan and Limited Edition Hermès bags. Our handbag specialists are always sourcing the more desirable Hermès bags from collectors around the world. Sotheby's also sells incredible private collections that include one of a kind Hermès bags.
2. Flexibility
Sotheby's provides multiple ways to purchase bags including auction, online, and in person in New York, Hong Kong, Zurich, Paris and London. Sotheby's also offers a concierge service if you need assistance sourcing a specific Hermès bag that isn't available at auction or online.
3. Value
While Hermès bags in pristine condition sell at a premium to retail, Sotheby's has bags for purchase at auction and marketplace in a range of the most desirable colors and materials. Secondary marketplaces like Sotheby's allow a buyer to purchase a store fresh pristine Hermès bag with the original box and all plastic still on the hardware without waiting for a call from an Hermès sales associate. While it is possible to purchase a Hermès Bag at a boutique, it is hard to predict how long it will take. Additionally if you don't have an existing relationship at the store, it is even harder to pick the exact bag including size, color and hardware. In many cases you may be offered a Hermès bag that may not be your desired color or size. Buyers also come to Sotheby's since they want to purchase more than two Hermès bags in a year. While we encourage you to build a relationship with an Hermès Sales Associate, Sotheby's can save you time when purchasing a Hermès.
4. Discovery
One of the best parts of a global luxury marketplace is discovering unique one of a kind Hermès or rare limited edition Hermès bags that are no longer available at Hermès. Sotheby's curated selection changes regularly and each auction has a unique selection of Hermès bags. You are likely to discover something new to you from Hermès.
Buy and Sell Hermès Bags at Sotheby's
Sotheby's always has a curated selection of the top Hermès bags available for immediate shipping. Sotheby's also sells Hermès bags at auction in New York, Paris, Zurich and Hong Kong. Expect to find rare and collectible Birkin and Kelly bags in every sale in addition to other popular Hermès bags in pristine condition in the newest colors and classic neutrals. Sotheby's handbag sales include rare and limited edition Hermès bags in exotic materials, custom color combinations and even diamond hardware.
Prices for entry level Hermès bags range from $3,000 to $5,000 for the Herbag, Garden Party and Evelyne TPM. Prices for the most sought after Birkin and Kelly bags start at around $20,000 and can exceed $100,000 for the rarest and most desirable limited edition Birkin or Kelly bags.
- Explore upcoming handbag auctions in New York, London, Switzerland, Paris, and Hong Kong.
- Speak to a Salon Associate in New York, Zurich, London, Paris, or Hong Kong to schedule an appointment.
- Contact a Handbag Specialist about selling an Hermès bag or submit your item here for valuation.
Trust our worldwide network of leading handbag specialists from a globally renowned auction house established in 1744.
