![](data:image/svg+xml;utf8,<svg xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" version="1.1" height="911px" width="1890px"></svg>)
I ndependent watchmaking represents innovation, creativity, and the pursuit of individuality, with De Bethune among the standout names in this segment of haute horlogerie.
The brand has redefined horological boundaries, embracing futuristic aesthetics while preserving traditional craftsmanship. Founded in 2002, De Bethune watches have consistently demonstrated a relentless pursuit of pushing technical and artistic boundaries.
From the celestial allure of their patented blue titanium creations to groundbreaking engineering like the floating lug system, De Bethune is a true innovator in contemporary watchmaking. Join us as we explore a selection of exceptional De Bethune watches from the Sotheby's archive.
This De Bethune Reference DB28TBMW DB28 Kind of Blue Tourbillon sold for 190,500 USD in December 2023, exceeding its high estimate of 160,000 USD.
The iconic DB28 stood as a cornerstone of De Bethune watches, with its marvel earning it the prestigious Aiguille d’Or award at the 2011 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG).
De Bethune has frequently tapped into a futuristic aesthetic, evoking celestial and space-inspired themes. This inclination culminated in the release of the De Bethune DB28T "Kind of Blue" timepiece, a homage to the profound and cosmic hue. This blue holds symbolic significance to the brand, representing concepts of infinity, harmony, and a sense of being both within and beyond itself.
The distinctive De Bethune blue was serendipitously discovered by fourth-generation watchmaker Denis Flageollet, during his experiments to thermally treat titanium balance wheels in an endeavour to reduce instability. Surpassing 700º Celsius, titanium unexpectedly transformed into this mesmerizing cosmic hue. The distinctive shade has since become a hallmark of De Bethune's creations, notably showcased in the brand's "Kind of Blue" series.
In person, these timepieces radiated an unparalleled depth of blue, captivating from every angle. The thermal treatment for "Kind of Blue" extends not only to the case elements but also to the majority of the dial and movement. Consequently, each piece was meticulously studied, as the process must be tailored to its unique form and mass.
This De Bethune watch was crafted with a grade 5 titanium 43 mm case that was ingeniously affixed with floating lugs for supreme comfort. The dial showcased a distinctive bridge shape and evoked instant parallels with the communicator badge from Star Trek, complemented by a mesmerizing Milky Way pattern at its center.
Offered with its complete set of accessories, this De Bethune creation was a truly exceptional opportunity to acquire one of only five pieces produced in this limited edition series.
This De Bethune Reference DB28TIS8C3PN No. 1 sold for 698,500 HKD in April 2024, exceeding its high estimate of 600,000 HKD.
In 2010, the De Bethune Reference DB28TIS8 was launched. The following year, this De Bethune watch won the esteemed Aiguille d'Or award at the Grand Prix Horlogerie de Genève, earning the title of the best watch of the year.
This De Bethune model showcased the brand's distinctive spring-loaded floating lug system, enabling the watch to adapt seamlessly to the wearer's wrist for enhanced comfort.
Crafted in titanium, the design of the DB28 exuded a resolutely contemporary aesthetic. Rather than a conventional dial, the top movement plate took the spotlight, having featured a ruthenium plating adorned with Geneva stripes. This exposed the balance, triple pare-chute shock absorber, and a portion of the mainsprings.
Another notable De Bethune signature element was the three-dimensional moon phases, positioned at the lower part of the dial. Additionally, there was a discreet wind performance indicator located between 2 and 3 o'clock, along with a 6-day power reserve indicator on the case back.
This De Bethune "Imperial Fountain" Reference DB25CWYL10 sold for 456,000 HKD in October 2024 during Sotheby's Important Watches sale.
De Bethune launched the DB25 collection in 2007, originally featuring timepieces distinguished by traditional appearances and subtle designs. De Bethune used this series as an opportunity to implement various watchmaking technical abilities with moonphase or perpetual calendar complications, including their rendition of the tourbillon.
Like other models in the series, this De Bethune DB25 model featured a 44mm dial, but notably excluded the common themes from the series' design. Rather than downplay dial appearances like other DB25 watches, De Bethune boldly integrated elements of traditional Chinese horology to construct a celebratory timepiece.
This De Bethune “Imperial Fountain Dragon” DB25 watch was inspired by the Yuan Ming Yuan, the famous Chinese Zodiac clepsydra fountain at the Old Summer Palace in Beijing. A tribute to the Chinese clock fountain, the solid gold dial exhibited an exceptional engraving of a dragon’s head in the centre. Orbiting the dragon engraving were blue steel peripheral hands moving under the dial centre, a design which gave more attention to the dragon's head.
The peripheral hands pointed towards hour markers engraved in Chinese. They also moved above twelve Zodiac heads and were placed in respective order of the original Zodiac sequence in the Yuan Ming Yuan fountain, representing the hour indexes next to the Chinese characters on the dial.
The watch was operated by a balance wheel, which was an in-house design of silicon, platinum, and gold, and operated with a manual movement, part of which was visible through the skeletonised caseback.
This De Bethune Reference DB27S1 Titan Hawk sold for 48,260 USD in December 2023.
The De Bethune DB27 Titan Hawk presented a captivating blend of the brand’s timeless and modern design elements. This De Bethune watch belonged to the "V1" series, launched in 2012 to celebrate the brand's 10-year anniversary.
The V1 model featured a rotating “arrow head” for the date indicator and positioned the crown at 12 o'clock. Staying true to the brand's distinctive style, this De Bethune creation incorporated the distinctive "floating lugs" and a rounded, multi-dimensional appearance achieved through alternating raised and recessed dial sections.
Notably, the dial featured a more conventional three-hand display, which allowed the avant-garde case and unique features to take center stage. Additionally, the V1's caseback was partially enclosed. This offered a subtle glimpse of the meticulously hand-finished movement and intricate technical details. A true representation of De Bethune's mystifying character.
Encased in a 43 mm titanium case this De Bethune watch embodies the essence of maison's craftsmanship.
This De Bethune Reference DBS-W sold for 38,100 CHF in May 2024 during Sotheby's Important Watches sale in Geneva.
The De Bethune Reference DBS-W was a remarkable example of avant-garde independent watchmaking.
Crafted in 18k white gold, its 42.5mm x 45mm case featured a semi-skeletonized silver dial that showcased the intricate craftsmanship and technical prowess of its manual-winding movement, the DB2014-166.
Notable design elements included a distinctive convex chapter ring with blued steel accents and a moon phase indicator. The De Bethune DBS-W also boasted a unique rear power reserve display visible through a sapphire crystal on its case back, secured with seven screws.
Its first-generation movement demonstrated De Bethune's commitment to creating timepieces that are as functional as they are artistic. Accompanied by its original De Bethune Certificate of Authenticity, presentation case, setting pin, and papers, this watch was a highly collectible piece, embodying the visionary spirit of the De Bethune brand.
De Bethune’s design ethos is defined by a relentless pursuit of harmony between tradition and modernity. De Bethune watches such as the DB28 Kind of Blue Tourbillon, with its celestial symbolism, or the DB25 Imperial Fountain, paying homage to ancient Chinese horology, illustrate the brand's unique narrative-driven approach. The maison remains a beacon of innovation in contemporary haute horlogerie.
At Sotheby’s our global network of watch experts have brought a wide selection of extraordinary De Bethune watches to market, making us perfectly placed to advise clients on the sale or acquisition of a De Bethune timepiece. Work with Sotheby's specialists and in doing so be part of our community of passionate watch enthusiasts and collectors.
Trust our worldwide network of leading De Bethune specialists from a globally renowned auction house with a 280 year history.
