W hen it comes to Birkin bags on the secondary market, condition plays a huge role in determining value. While store-fresh bags in the most popular colors and sizes tend to command top-dollar, there are vintage Birkins so rare that condition issues have little bearing on value. The most desirable regular leather Birkin bags currently top-out around $35,000 on the secondary market, and the most worn, least popular examples bottom out around $5,000. Some Hermès lovers prefer to buy bags that have already been ‘broken in’ so they won’t worry about adding scratches or scuffs and can use their bags however they’d like. Generally, buyers are willing to pay more for better condition bags.
Jane Birkin herself is known for casually stomping on her namesake bag whenever she gets a new one. However, if you plan to resell your bag in the future, here are a few tips on how to use it while preserving its condition.
Birkin Bag Handles
The first area that is likely to show wear on a Birkin bag is the handles. Birkin bag handles are less structured than Kelly handles and can become misshapen if too much weight is carried in the bag. The handles are also where bags are touched the most. Moisturizer and other lotions can accelerate the oil transfer that happens when skin touches leather. These oils will darken the handles in time, so if your bag is not already a dark color, consider wrapping the handles with Twilly scarves, Hermès Silk Twillies are a popular choice but any thin length of fabric will do the trick. While Twillies are always a helpful accessory, others are not. Soft charms such as the Hermes Rodeo, Pegas or Buddy charms are perfect because they have no hard surfaces or sharp edges that could damage a bag. The Cadena lock that is often kept attached to the clochette, on the other hand, can easily damage a bag’s exterior. It's advised to keep it at home, or inside the bag in its own small dustbag.
Birkin Bag Hardware
When bags emerge from a Hermès boutique, their hardware is covered in protective plastic. Whether or not to remove this plastic at any point is an issue of debate among Hermès collectors. Though it's true that an otherwise store-fresh bag without plastic would be worth less than one with plastic, once a bag has acquired some wear, the presence of plastic on the hardware no longer affects the bag’s value. In instances of unused bags that will be stored for long periods, such as rare limited editions, it is sometimes said that leaving the plastic on long-term risks humidity getting trapped between the plastic and hardware and potentially causing the rivets to discolor faster than normal. Scratching the feet is not likely to affect an otherwise pristine bag’s value much, though some collectors opt to cover bag's feet with little rubber caps.
Birkin Bag Interior
The most common sign of use inside a Birkin bag is what’s known as ‘press marks.’ These are little dents in the lining from things like wallets, keys or glasses bouncing around. An easy way to prevent them is to use an insert. Hermès produces handbag inserts in cotton and silk as do many other companies, often in specific sizes and colors to perfectly match specific bags. Hermès’ spa service, which refurbishes the brand’s bags, infamously will not refurbish the interiors.
Birkin Bag Storage
Proper storage is essential to maintaining a bag’s condition long-term. A bag can become permanently misshapen if it’s stored in the wrong position. Ideally Birkin bags should be loosely stuffed with tissue paper or bubble wrap and kept in their boxes and dustbags, laid on their backs with a bolster under the handles. The felt should be properly set so the sangles are kept apart from the pontets. If all of the original accouterments are not available, bags can be stored upright with the proper interior stuffing for support (be careful not to overstuff unless you are trying to reshape a misshapen bag). It is advised to fasten the sangles around the spindle without threading them through the pontets, as this will cause dents with time. Be sure your bags are stored out of sunlight and in minimal heat humidity if any.
How Much is a Hermès Birkin Bag Worth?
The value of a Hermès Birkin bag depends on several factors, including size, material, color, hardware, condition, and rarity. Retail prices for new Birkin bags typically range from around $10,000 to $12,000 for standard leather models, but prices can increase substantially for exotic leathers like crocodile or ostrich, or special editions. On the secondary market, the most in-demand Birkins—especially in classic colors like black or gold with gold hardware—often sell for $30,000 to $75,000, with rare or pristine examples surpassing $100,000. Limited editions or exceptional pieces, such as the Himalaya Birkin, are among the most coveted and can achieve several hundred thousand dollars at auction.
Advantages to Buying an Hermès Bag on the Secondary Market
1. Access
Sotheby's is able to provide access to a curated selection of Hermès bags from its long established global network of sellers. Sotheby's is a leading global marketplace that offers pristine Hermès bags in the most popular colors, materials and sizes along with rare Himalayan and Limited Edition Hermès bags. Our handbag specialists are always sourcing the more desirable Hermès bags from collectors around the world. Sotheby's also sells incredible private collections that include one of a kind Hermès bags.
2. Flexibility
Sotheby's provides multiple ways to purchase bags including auction, online, and in person in New York, Hong Kong, Paris and London. Sotheby's also offers a concierge service if you need assistance sourcing a specific Hermès bag that isn't available at auction or online.
3. Value
While Hermès bags in pristine condition sell at a premium to retail, Sotheby's has bags for purchase at auction and marketplace in a range of the most desirable colors and materials. Secondary marketplaces like Sotheby's allow a buyer to purchase a store fresh pristine Hermès bag with the original box and all plastic still on the hardware without waiting for a call from an Hermès sales associate. While it is possible to purchase a Hermès Bag at a boutique, it is hard to predict how long it will take. Additionally if you don't have an existing relationship at the store, it is even harder to pick the exact bag including size, color and hardware. In many cases you may be offered a Hermès bag that may not be your desired color or size. Buyers also come to Sotheby's since they want to purchase more than two Hermès bags in a year. While we encourage you to build a relationship with an Hermès Sales Associate, Sotheby's can save you time when purchasing a Hermès.
4. Discovery
One of the best parts of a global luxury marketplace is discovering unique one of a kind Hermès or rare limited edition Hermès bags that are no longer available at Hermès. Sotheby's curated selection changes regularly and each auction has a unique selection of Hermès bags. You are likely to discover something new to you from Hermès.
Buy and Sell an Hermès Bag at Sotheby's
Sotheby's always has a curated selection of the top Hermès bags available for immediate shipping. Sotheby's also sells Hermès bags at auction in New York, Paris and Hong Kong. Expect to find rare and collectible Birkin and Kelly bags in every sale in addition to other popular Hermès bags in pristine condition in the newest colors and classic neutrals. Sotheby's handbag sales include rare and limited edition Hermès bags in exotic materials, custom color combinations and even diamond hardware.
Prices for entry level Hermès bags range from $3,000 to $5,000 for the Herbag, Garden Party and Evelyne TPM. Prices for the most sought after Birkin and Kelly bags start at around $20,000 and can exceed $100,000 for the rarest and most desirable limited edition Birkin or Kelly bags.
- Explore upcoming handbag auctions in New York, London, Switzerland, Paris, and Hong Kong.
- Speak to a Salon Associate in New York, London, Paris, or Hong Kong to schedule an appointment.
- Contact a Handbag Specialist about selling an Hermès bag or submit your item here for valuation.
Trust our worldwide network of leading handbag specialists from a globally renowned auction house established in 1744.