Luxury Watches 101: Collector’s Guides to Rolex, Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet and More | Watches | Sotheby's

In 1965, variants with a black acrylic insert were introduced, including the ref. 6240 Rolex Daytona, offering higher contrast.

How to Collect Watches

Guides to collecting Rolex, Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet and more.

Everything You Need to Know to Start Collecting Watches

Watch collecting is bigger today than its ever been before. Whether you’re a watch-collecting novice or well-established collector, Sotheby’s experts have you covered on the most important luxury watches – Rolex, Audemars Piguet, Patek Philippe and more – along with everything you need to know about buying their most coveted auctions online or at auction.

From the Rolex Daytona to the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, the Cartier Tank to Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendars – Sotheby’s comprehensive watch-collecting guides will help you navigate the luxury watch market, offering insight from industry-leading specialists into rare references and the history behind these coveted masterpieces of haute horlogerie.

Features

After being spotted on Timothée Chalamet’s wrist, Cartier’s Baignoire arguably leads the vogue for traditional women’s watches.

After being spotted on Timothée Chalamet’s wrist, Cartier’s Baignoire arguably leads the vogue for traditional women’s watches.

Who’s Afraid of Women’s Watches?

A pink Patek Philippe ref. 1518A chronograph watch from 1948, once belonging to the Prince of Egypt, sold at Sotheby’s for $9.6 million in 2021, igniting a crazy for salmon-dial watches that continues today.

A pink Patek Philippe ref. 1518A chronograph watch from 1948, once belonging to the Prince of Egypt, sold at Sotheby’s for $9.6 million in 2021, igniting a crazy for salmon-dial watches that continues today.

Aperture to Tourbillon: 23 Watch Terms to Know

Rolex

Rolex

Many collections begin and end with Rolex. A little knowledge goes a long way when it comes to collecting the world’s most legendary watches.

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The word Oyster on the dial of this ref. 6263 Rolex Daytona denotes the additional water resistance, made possible by the screw-down pushers at 2 and 4 o’clock.

Learn More about Rolex

The Rolex Daytona: The Complete Collector’s Guide

The Rolex Submariner: The Complete Collector’s Guide

A vintage Rolex GMT-Master Reference 1675 Pepsi

A vintage Rolex GMT-Master Reference 1675 Pepsi

The Rolex GMT-Master: The Complete Collector’s Guide

Rolex GMT Root Beer

Rolex GMT Root Beer

From Pandas to Pepsi: A Guide to Rolex Nicknames

The ref. 116610LV Rolex Submariner, known as the ‘Hulk,’ is one of several green-bezel Submariners – along with the ref. 16610LV ‘Kermit’ and ref. 126610LV ‘Starbucks,’ both of which have black dials.

The ref. 116610LV Rolex Submariner, known as the ‘Hulk,’ is one of several green-bezel Submariners – along with the ref. 16610LV ‘Kermit’ and ref. 126610LV ‘Starbucks,’ both of which have black dials.

The Six Most Expensive Rolex Submariner Watches Sold at Auction

The Complete Guide to the Rolex Datejust

The 5 Most Expensive Rolex Daytona Watches Sold at Auction

F. P. Journe Chronomètre Optimum

F. P. Journe Chronomètre Optimum

Specialist Picks: Shop the Best Luxury Watches to Buy Now

The Rolex Pepsi: Rugged Examples That Honour the DNA of the GMT Series

The Rolex Day Date: Revisiting Rare Designs from the Sotheby's Archive

F. P. Journe Chronomètre Optimum

F. P. Journe Chronomètre Optimum

The 5 Most Expensive Rolex Daytona Panda Watches Sold at Auction

The Rolex Daytona: Colourful Chronographs from the Sotheby's Archive

Shop Rolex Watches

Rolex Cosmograph Daytona (Reference 116520). A stainless steel automatic wristwatch with chronograph. 2009-2010

Rolex GMT-Master II Blue Red Pepsi (Reference 126710). A stainless steel automatic wristwatch with date.

Rolex GMT-Master II "Bruce Wayne" (Reference 126710GRNR). A stainless steel automatic wristwatch with date and dual time. 2025

Rolex Submariner Kermit Green Bezel (Reference 16610LV). A stainless steel, green-dial automatic wristwatch with date. 2003-2004

Rolex GMT-Master II (Reference 16713). A yellow gold stainless steel automatic wristwatch with date. 1990-1991

Rolex Cosmograph Daytona (Reference 116500LN). A stainless steel automatic wristwatch with chronograph. 2021

Rolex Date (Reference 15037). A 14k yellow gold automatic wristwatch. 1986-1987

Rolex President Day-Date (Reference 118138). A yellow gold automatic wristwatch with day and date.

Rolex Cosmograph Daytona "John Mayer" (Reference 116508). A yellow gold automatic wristwatch with chronograph. 2017

Rolex Cosmograph Daytona (Reference 116519). A white gold automatic wristwatch with chronograph.

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Patek Philippe

Patek Philippe

The vaunted watch brand can easily keep a collector busy for a lifetime – but with just a little history and guidance, getting started doesn’t have to be hard.

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Learn More about Patek Philippe

Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Chronograph reference 1518. Sold by Sotheby’s New York in 2022 for $1.6 million

Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Chronograph reference 1518. Sold by Sotheby’s New York in 2022 for $1.6 million

Collecting Patek Philippe’s Perpetual Calendar Chronograph

The Complete Guide to the Patek Philippe Nautilus

5 Entry-Level Patek Philippe Watches to Start Your Collection

Gérald Genta (1931-2011) became known as “The Picasso of Watches” after designing the iconic Audemars Piguet Royal Oak and Patek Philippe Nautilus.

Gérald Genta (1931-2011) became known as “The Picasso of Watches” after designing the iconic Audemars Piguet Royal Oak and Patek Philippe Nautilus.

Gérald Genta: The Most Visionary Watch Designer of the 20th Century

The Five Most Expensive Patek Philippe Watches Sold at Auction

Most Expensive Patek Phillipe Nautilus

Most Expensive Patek Phillipe Nautilus

The 5 Most Expensive Patek Philippe Nautilus Watches Sold At Auction

most expensive patek philippe aquant

most expensive patek philippe aquant

The 7 Most Expensive Patek Philippe Aquanaut Watches Sold At Auction

Patek Philippe’s ref. 5196 Calatrava is a modern platinum interpretation of one of the world’s most timeless wristwatches.

Patek Philippe’s ref. 5196 Calatrava is a modern platinum interpretation of one of the world’s most timeless wristwatches.

Five Rare Patek Philippe Calatrava Models from the Sotheby's Archive

A blue error-dial Patek Philippe Aquanaut Advanced Research Reference 56050G

A blue error-dial Patek Philippe Aquanaut Advanced Research Reference 56050G

Exploring the Patek Philippe Aquanaut

most expensive patek philippe aquant

most expensive patek philippe aquant

The Five Most Expensive Patek Philippe Aquanaut Watches Sold at Auction in 2024

The most expensive Patek Philippe watches sold at auction in 2024

The most expensive Patek Philippe watches sold at auction in 2024

The Five Most Expensive Patek Philippe Watches Sold at Auction in 2024

Most Expensive Patek Phillipe Nautilus

Most Expensive Patek Phillipe Nautilus

The Five Most Expensive Patek Phillipe Nautilus Watches Sold at Auction in 2024

Shop Patek Philippe Watches

Patek Philippe Nautilus (Reference 5990/1A-001). A stainless steel dual time zone flyback chronograph wristwatch with date, dual day/night indication and bracelet, Circa 2016

Patek Philippe Gondolo (Reference 5111R-001). A rose gold manual wind wristwatch. 2005

Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Reference 5970G-001

Patek Philippe Gondolo (Reference 4868/001). A white gold diamond set quartz wristwatch.

Patek Philippe Calatrava (Reference 5196J). A yellow gold manual wind wristwatch.

Patek Philippe Complications (Reference 5396R-014). A rose gold diamond set automatic wristwatch with day, date, month, moon phase, and annual calendar. 2020

Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Chronograph Reference 5905P

Patek Philippe Aquanaut Travel Time Reference 5164A-001

Patek Philippe Complications (Reference 5905P-001). A platinum automatic wristwatch with date, day, month, flyback chronograph, and annual calendar. 2021

Patek Philippe Calatrava (Reference 7122/200R). A rose gold diamond-set manual wind wristwatch.

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Audemars Piguet

Audemars Piguet

With a mix of classic complications and industry-shaking icons, few brands offer more variety and more history to enjoy than the Le Brassus manufacture behind the AP Royal Oak.

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AP Royal Oak

Learn More about Audemars Piguet

The Complete Guide to Collecting the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak

Gérald Genta (1931-2011) became known as “The Picasso of Watches” after designing the iconic Audemars Piguet Royal Oak and Patek Philippe Nautilus.

Gérald Genta (1931-2011) became known as “The Picasso of Watches” after designing the iconic Audemars Piguet Royal Oak and Patek Philippe Nautilus.

Gérald Genta: The Most Visionary Watch Designer of the 20th Century

The Six Most Expensive Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Watches Sold at Auction

The Most Expensive Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Watches Sold at Sotheby’s

Audemars Piguet’s ref. 26052BC perpetual calendar features a traditional minute repeater in a rare, oversize cushion-shaped case.

Audemars Piguet’s ref. 26052BC perpetual calendar features a traditional minute repeater in a rare, oversize cushion-shaped case.

Audemars Piguet: Beyond the Royal Oak

The 5 Most Expensive Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Watches Sold at Sotheby’s in 2024

The Top 5 Most Expensive Audemars Piguet Watches Sold at Sotheby's in 2024

The Perpetual Calendar: Exploring Standout Examples from the Sotheby's Archive

5 Tips for Buying an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak at Auction

A History of the Tourbillon

The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak: Remarkable Tourbillon Examples Sold by Sotheby’s

The Luxury Sales

3 Important Watches That Embody The Current Collecting Trend

Shop Audemars Piguet Watches

Audemars Piguet

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak "Jumbo" Extra-thin (Reference 15202BC.OO.1240BC.01). A white gold automatic wristwatch with date. 2022

Audemars Piguet

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak (Reference 26331OR.OO.D315CR.01). A rose gold automatic wristwatch with date and chronograph.

Audemars Piguet

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin (Reference 15202BA.OO.1240BA.02). A yellow gold automatic wristwatch with date. 2018

Audemars Piguet

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak (Reference 26320ST.OO.1220ST.02). A stainless steel automatic wristwatch with date and chronograph. 2014

Audemars Piguet

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore (Reference 15605SK.OO.A350CA.01). A stainless steel automatic wristwatch with date.

Audemars Piguet

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak (Reference 25730BA.OO.0789BA.06). A yellow gold automatic wristwatch with date, dual time zone, and power reserve. 2001

Audemars Piguet

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak (Reference 26331ST.OO.1220ST.02). A stainless steel automatic wristwatch with date and chronograph. 2019

Audemars Piguet

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Limited Edition (Reference 26239BC.GG.1224BC.01). A white gold frosted automatic wristwatch with date and chronograph. 2022

Audemars Piguet

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak (Reference 25860ST.OO.1110ST.05). A stainless steel automatic wristwatch with date and chronograph.

Audemars Piguet

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak "Jumbo" Extra-Thin (Reference 15202ST.OO.0944ST.02). A stainless steel automatic wristwatch with date. 2003

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Cartier

Cartier

The French maison of high jewelry is also known for their fine watches.

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Learn More about Cartier

Cartier Tank Cintrée

Cartier Tank Cintrée

Collecting the Cartier Tank: A Buyer’s Guide to the Most Important Models

Collecting the Cartier Crash

The Essential Guide to the Cartier Santos

A Cartier Mystery Clock made from rare nephrite, hardstone, mother-of-pearl and diamond mystery clock, circa 1980. Estimate: 150-200,000 CHF

A Cartier Mystery Clock made from rare nephrite, hardstone, mother-of-pearl and diamond mystery clock, circa 1980. Estimate: 150-200,000 CHF

The Enchanting Allure of Cartier’s Mystery Clocks

The Cartier Tank: Revisiting The Most Expensive Examples Sold by Sotheby's

The Evolution of the Cartier Crash Watch

The Cartier Tank: Five Diamond Designs from the Sotheby’s Archive

The Unusual History of the Cartier Crash

The 8 Most Expensive Cartier Watch Models Sold at Auction

The Cartier Santos: Exploring Diamond Models from the Sotheby's Archive

Shop Cartier Watches

Cartier Tank Americaine (Reference WB7018L1). A white gold diamond set quartz wristwatch. 2000

Cartier Santos Dumont (Reference WJSA0017). A rose gold diamond set quartz wristwatch. 2021

Cartier Ballon Blue (Reference W4BB0028). A stainless steel diamond set automatic wristwatch. 2022

Cartier Ballon Bleu (Reference WE902064). A rose gold diamond set automatic wristwatch. 2015

Cartier Tank (Reference W5330001). A rose gold automatic wristwatch with date. 2014

Cartier Ballon Bleu (Reference W4BB0035). A stainless steel diamond set automatic wristwatch.

Cartier Santos (Reference WSSA0078). An unworn stainless steel automatic wristwatch with date and chronograph.

Cartier Calibre de Cartier (Reference WGCA0010). A rose gold automatic wristwatch with date.

Cartier Ballon Bleu (Reference WGBB0036). A rose gold automatic wristwatch with date. 2021

Cartier Tank Anglaise (Reference WT100013). A rose gold diamond set quartz wristwatch.

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A. Lange & Söhne

A. Lange & Söhne

In just a few short decades, the German brand has reestablished itself as the maker of some of the world’s greatest luxury watches.

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Learn More about A. Lange & Söhne

Vacheron Constantin

Vacheron Constantin

The 5 Most Expensive A. Lange & Söhne watches Sold at Auction in 2024

Vacheron Constantin

Vacheron Constantin

The A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk: Exploring Examples From the Sotheby's Archive

A Lange & Sohne Odysseus

A Lange & Sohne Odysseus

A. Lange & Söhne: Exploring the Striking Odysseus Sports Watch

The Five Most Expensive A. Lange & Söhne Lots Sold at Sotheby’s

A Lange & Sohne: Exploring Lange 1 Models in the Sotheby's Archive

A. Lange & Söhne: Superlative Rose Gold Examples from the Sotheby's Archive

Reaching for the Moon with Watches by A. Lange & Söhne

An Interview with A. Lange & Söhne CEO Wilhelm Schmid

The Most Extensive Collection of A. Lange & Sohne’s Work

The Most Extensive Collection of A. Lange & Sohne’s Work

The Most Extensive Collection of A. Lange & Sohne’s Work

Shop A. Lange & Söhne Watches

A. Lange & Söhne

A. Lange & Söhne 1815 (Reference 206.021). A yellow gold manual wind wristwatch.

A. Lange & Söhne

A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 (Reference 109.021). A yellow gold manual wind wristwatch with date, moonphase, and power reserve.

A. Lange & Söhne

A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia (Reference 215.029). A white gold manual wristwatch.

A. Lange & Söhne

A. Lange & Söhne 1815 (Reference 221.032). A rose gold manual wind wristwatch with power reserve. 2007

A. Lange & Söhne

A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 (Reference 130.032F). A rose gold manual wind wristwatch with date, power reserve, and quick date correction button.

A. Lange & Söhne

A. Lange & Söhne Grand Lange 1 (Reference 139.032). A rose gold manual wind wristwatch with date, power reserve, moon phase, and quick date correction button. 2018

A. Lange & Söhne

A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus (Reference 363.068). A white gold automatic wristwatch with day and date. 2022

A. Lange & Söhne

A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia (Reference 386.032). A rose gold automatic wristwatch with dual time zone. 2018

A. Lange & Söhne

A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 (Reference 101.031). A rose gold manual wind wristwatch with date and power reserve.

A. Lange & Söhne

A. Lange & Söhne 1815 (Reference 414.032). A rose gold manual wind wristwatch with flyback chronograph.

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F.P. Journe

F.P. Journe

In just 25 years, the independent watchmaker has established itself through a unique style rooted in heritage and defined by cutting-edge innovation.

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Learn More about F.P. Journe

Expert Voices: Charlie Foxhall on the F.P. Journe Resonance

The 5 Most Expensive F.P. Journe Watches Sold at Auction in 2024

Five Extraordinary FP Journe Watches Sold at Sotheby's

Sylvester Stallone’s Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime Reference 6300G-010 achieved $5.4 million off a $2.5-5 million high estimate in June 2024.

Sylvester Stallone’s Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime Reference 6300G-010 achieved $5.4 million off a $2.5-5 million high estimate in June 2024.

The Most Expensive Watches Sold at Sotheby's in the First Half of 2024

The Five Most Expensive F.P. Journe Watches Sold at Sotheby’s

A Very Rare and Beautiful Watch: F.P. Journe's Resonance Comes To Auction

A Look Back in Time: Five Iconic Watches that Celebrate the Innovations of F.P. Journe’s History

The Genius of François-Paul Journe

Two Watches Born of François-Paul Journe’s Genius

Shop F.P. Journe Watches

F.P. Journe LineSport Chronographe Rattrapante (Reference CMS/CM). A titanium manual wind wristwatch with date and split seconds chronograph. 2019

F.P. Journe (Centigraphe Souverain) A platinum chronograph wristwatch with 100th of a seconds, 20-second and 10 minute registers, Circa 2011

F.P. Journe Octa Réserve de Marche. A boutique edition pink gold wristwatch with date and power reserve, Circa 2012

F. P. Journe Chronometre Souverain. A platinum manual winding wristwatch with power reserve indication.

F. P. Journe Chronomètre Optimum (Reference CO). A rose gold automatic wristwatch with power reserve.

F.P. Journe Elegante. A titanium and diamond-set wristwatch with motion detector, Circa 2021

F. P. Journe. Quantieme Perpetual Boutique Edition. A platinum calendar wristwatch with power reserve and leap year indication. 2021

F.P. Journe (Chronometre a Resonance). A pink gold dual time zone wristwatch with double escapement and power reserve, Circa 2016

F.P. Journe Line Sport Chronographe Rattrapante a pink gold split second chronograph manual wind wristwatch. 2021

F. P. Journe Chronomètre à Résonance. A platinum dual time manual wind wristwatch with power reserve indication. 2023

F. P. Journe Élégante Titanium. A titanium quartz wristwatch. 2021

F. P. Journe Octa Divine. A rose gold automatic wristwatch with date, moon phases, and power reserve indication. 2005

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Richard Mille

Richard Mille

In just 25 years, this iconoclastic brand has become one of the biggest names in watchmaking.

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Richard Mille RM 50-01, circa 2015. Estimate: $1-1.5 million

Learn More about Richard Mille

The 5 Most Expensive Richard Mille Watches Sold At Auction

Richard Mille, RM 57-02 Falcon

Richard Mille, RM 57-02 Falcon

Richard Mille: Diamond-Set Masterpieces from the Sotheby's Archive

Richard Mille: 7 Extraordinary Watches from the Sotheby’s Archive

The 5 Most Expensive Richard Mille Watches Sold by Sotheby's in 2024

A Richard Mille Limited Edition Rafael Nadal Americas Reference RM035 carbon automatic wristwatch

A Richard Mille Limited Edition Rafael Nadal Americas Reference RM035 carbon automatic wristwatch

Exploring the Case Shapes of Richard Mille

Richard Mille: Pushing the Boundaries of Material Innovation

The Most Expensive Richard Mille Watches Sold by Sotheby's in H1 2024

Showcasing the Richard Mille Watch Designed in Collaboration with Rafael Nadal | The Luxury Sales

Specialist Picks: 10 Notable Timepieces From The Hong Kong Sales

Discover the Innovation of Richard Mille Watches worn by World Champion Athletes | Fine Watches

Nine Exceptional Watches Handpicked for Your Collection

How Much Is Your Watch Collection Worth?

How Much Is Your Watch Collection Worth?

Sotheby’s Specialists are on hand to provide a free, no-strings-attached valuation.

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