Watch Collecting 101: A Collector’s Guide to Buying Luxury Watches | Watches & Timepieces | Sotheby's

In 1965, variants with a black acrylic insert were introduced, including the ref. 6240 Rolex Daytona, offering higher contrast.

How to Collect Watches

Guides to collecting Rolex, Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet and more.

Everything You Need to Know to Start Collecting Watches

Watch collecting is on the rise. Here, Sotheby’s experts share insight in to the most important luxury watches, by renowned manufactures such as Rolex, including the Daytona and Submariner. Learn what makes the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak so iconic. And dive into the storied legacy of Patek Philippe, known for its stunning Calatravas and sporty Nautilus.

Whether you’re a seasoned collector or just beginning your journey, Sotheby’s comprehensive watch-collecting guides will help you navigate the luxury watch market, offering insight into rare references and the history behind these coveted masterpieces.

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Sotheby's Magazine

A Champion’s Collection: Tom Brady on Selling his Watches and Memorabilia

A pink Patek Philippe ref. 1518A chronograph watch from 1948, once belonging to the Prince of Egypt, sold at Sotheby’s for $9.6 million in 2021, igniting a crazy for salmon-dial watches that continues today.

A pink Patek Philippe ref. 1518A chronograph watch from 1948, once belonging to the Prince of Egypt, sold at Sotheby’s for $9.6 million in 2021, igniting a crazy for salmon-dial watches that continues today.

Aperture to Tourbillon: 23 Watch Terms to Know

Rolex

Rolex

Many collections begin and end with Rolex. A little knowledge goes a long way when it comes to collecting the world’s most legendary watches.

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The word Oyster on the dial of this ref. 6263 Rolex Daytona denotes the additional water resistance, made possible by the screw-down pushers at 2 and 4 o’clock.

Learn More about Rolex

The Rolex Daytona: The Complete Collector’s Guide

The Rolex Submariner: The Complete Collector's Guide

Rolex GMT Root Beer

Rolex GMT Root Beer

From Pandas to Pepsi: A Guide to Rolex Nicknames

The Rolex Daytona Panda: Five Stand-Out Examples from the Sotheby's Archive

Rolex Daytona Paul Newman Panda

Rolex Daytona Paul Newman Panda

The 5 Most Expensive Rolex Daytona Panda Watches Sold at Auction

The 5 Most Expensive Rolex Daytona Watches Sold at Auction

The Rolex Pepsi: Rugged Examples That Honour the DNA of the GMT Series

The Rolex Daytona: Colourful Chronographs from the Sotheby's Archive

Rolex Daytona Zenith Rose Gold

Rolex Daytona Zenith Rose Gold

Rolex Daytona Zenith: The Essential Guide

The best way to buy a Rolex watch without the waitlist is to buy it at auction at Sotheby’s

The best way to buy a Rolex watch without the waitlist is to buy it at auction at Sotheby’s

Exploring the History of the Rolex GMT

The Rolex Day Date: Revisiting Rare Designs from the Sotheby's Archive

Rolex GMT Root Beer

Rolex GMT Root Beer

A Closer Look at the Rolex Root Beer

Shop Rolex Watches

Rolex GMT Master II Pepsi (Reference 126710). A stainless steel automatic wristwatch with date.

Rolex Submariner Kermit (Reference 16610LV). A stainless steel automatic wristwatch with date. 2003-2004

Rolex Day-Date (Reference 228239). A white gold automatic wristwatch with date and day. 2016

Rolex Daytona Panda (Reference 116500). A stainless steel automatic wristwatch with chronograph. 2018

Patek Philippe Calatrava (Reference 5196P-001). A platinum manual wind wristwatch.

Rolex Pearlmaster (Reference 86349). A white gold diamond-set sapphire bezel with date. 2022

Rolex Cosmograph Daytona (Reference 116520). A stainless steel automatic wristwatch with chronograph.

Rolex President Day-Date (Reference 118206). A platinum diamond-set automatic wristwatch with day and date. 2005-2006

Rolex President Day-Date (Reference 118206). A platinum diamond-set automatic wristwatch with day and date. 2004

Rolex Day-Date (Reference 228236). An unworn platinum blue-dial automatic wristwatch with day and date. 2023

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Patek Philippe

Patek Philippe

The vaunted watch brand can easily keep a collector busy for a lifetime – but with just a little history and guidance, getting started doesn’t have to be hard.

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Learn More about Patek Philippe

The Complete Guide to the Patek Philippe Nautilus

5 Entry-Level Patek Philippe Watches to Start Your Collection

Gérald Genta (1931-2011) became known as “The Picasso of Watches” after designing the iconic Audemars Piguet Royal Oak and Patek Philippe Nautilus.

Gérald Genta (1931-2011) became known as “The Picasso of Watches” after designing the iconic Audemars Piguet Royal Oak and Patek Philippe Nautilus.

Gérald Genta: The Most Visionary Watch Designer of the 20th Century

A History of the Tourbillon

The Luxury Sales

3 Important Watches That Embody The Current Collecting Trend

Patek Philippe’s ref. 5196 Calatrava is a modern platinum interpretation of one of the world’s most timeless wristwatches.

Patek Philippe’s ref. 5196 Calatrava is a modern platinum interpretation of one of the world’s most timeless wristwatches.

Five Rare Patek Philippe Calatrava Models from the Sotheby's Archive

Everything You Need to Know About Vintage Patek Philippe

A pink Patek Philippe ref. 1518A chronograph watch from 1948, once belonging to the Prince of Egypt, sold at Sotheby’s for $9.6 million in 2021, igniting a crazy for salmon-dial watches that continues today.

A pink Patek Philippe ref. 1518A chronograph watch from 1948, once belonging to the Prince of Egypt, sold at Sotheby’s for $9.6 million in 2021, igniting a crazy for salmon-dial watches that continues today.

Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Watches: A Collector's Guide

The Luxury Sales

What Makes These Patek Philippe Watches Treasures of Time?

The Luxury Sports Watch: Defining Models from Audemars Piguet, Patek Philippe and Rolex

The 5 Most Expensive Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Watches Sold At Sotheby's

Sylvester Stallone’s Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime Reference 6300G-010 achieved $5.4 million off a $2.5-5 million high estimate in June 2024.

Sylvester Stallone’s Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime Reference 6300G-010 achieved $5.4 million off a $2.5-5 million high estimate in June 2024.

The Most Expensive Watches Sold at Sotheby's in the First Half of 2024

Shop Patek Philippe Watches

Patek Philippe Calatrava (Reference 5120/1J). A yellow gold automatic wristwatch.

Patek Philippe Complications (Reference 5070J-001). A yellow gold manual wind wristwatch with chronograph.

Patek Philippe World Time (Reference 5230G-001). A white gold automatic wristwatch. 2020

Patek Philippe Gondolo (Reference 5100G-001). A white gold manual wind wristwatch with 10 day power reserve.

Patek Philippe World Time (Reference 5230R-012). A rose gold automatic wristwatch. 2020

Patek Philippe Nautilus (Reference 3900/1J-001). A stainless steel quartz wristwatch with date.

Patek Philippe Aquanaut (Reference 5968G-010). A white gold automatic wristwatch with date and chronograph. 2023

Patek Philippe World Time (Reference 5230G-001). A white gold automatic wristwatch. 2018

Patek Philippe Calatrava (Reference 5127R-001). A rose gold automatic wristwatch with date.

Patek Philippe Gondolo (Reference 5098R-001). A rose gold manual wind wristwatch. 2009

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Audemars Piguet

Audemars Piguet

With a mix of classic complications and industry-shaking icons, few brands offer more variety and more history to enjoy than the Le Brassus manufacture behind the AP Royal Oak.

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AP Royal Oak

Learn More about Audemars Piguet

How to Start Collecting the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak

Gérald Genta (1931-2011) became known as “The Picasso of Watches” after designing the iconic Audemars Piguet Royal Oak and Patek Philippe Nautilus.

Gérald Genta (1931-2011) became known as “The Picasso of Watches” after designing the iconic Audemars Piguet Royal Oak and Patek Philippe Nautilus.

Gérald Genta: The Most Visionary Watch Designer of the 20th Century

The Most Expensive Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Watches Sold at Sotheby’s

The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak: Remarkable Tourbillon Examples Sold by Sotheby’s

The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Rose Gold: Revisiting the Most Expensive Models Sold at Sotheby's

The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak: Platinum Perfection

The Top 5 Most Expensive Audemars Piguet Watches Sold at Sotheby's in the First Half of 2024

The Great Evolution of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak

The Six Most Expensive Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Watches Sold at Auction

5 Sports Watches to Start Your Collection

The Luxury Sales

Nine Exceptional Watches Handpicked for Your Collection

Sotheby's Spotlight: Fine Watches

Sotheby's Spotlight: Fine Watches

Sotheby's Spotlight: Fine Watches

Shop Audemars Piguet Watches

Audemars Piguet

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak (Reference 15451ST.ZZ.1256ST.03). A diamond-set stainless steel automatic wristwatch with date. 2018

Audemars Piguet

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak (Reference 26300ST.OO.1110ST.08). A stainless steel automatic wristwatch with date and chronograph.

Audemars Piguet

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak (Reference 25860ST.00.1110ST.01). A stainless steel automatic wristwatch with date and chronograph. 1998

Audemars Piguet

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak (Reference 26315ST.OO.1256ST.01). A stainless steel automatic wristwatch with date and chronograph.

Audemars Piguet

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak (Reference 26320ST.OO.1220ST.02). A stainless steel automatic wristwatch with date and chronograph. 2015

Audemars Piguet

Audemars Piguet Jules (Reference 26100OR.OO.D088CR.01). A rose gold automatic wristwatch with chronograph.

Audemars Piguet

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak (Reference 15452BC.ZZ.D019CR.01). A white gold diamond-set automatic wristwatch with date.

Audemars Piguet

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak (Reference 25594BA). A yellow gold automatic wristwatch with day, date, and moon phase.

Audemars Piguet

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore (Reference 25940OK). A rose gold automatic wristwatch with date and chronograph. 2014

Audemars Piguet

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore (Reference 26480TI.OO.A027CA.01). A titanium automatic wristwatch with date and chronograph.

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Cartier

Cartier

The French maison of high jewelry is also known for their fine watches.

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Learn More about Cartier

Collecting the Cartier Crash

The Essential Guide to the Cartier Santos

Cartier white gold emerald diamond watch snake dial

Cartier white gold emerald diamond watch snake dial

Cartier Watches: Exploring the Use of Diamonds

Five Extraordinary Cartier Watches Sold at Sotheby’s in 2024

Cartier Panthere Watches: Five Stunning Examples from the Sotheby’s Archive

The Cartier Tank Watch: Five Standout Examples from the Sotheby’s Archive

The Evolution of the Cartier Crash Watch

The Cartier Tank: Revisiting The Most Expensive Examples Sold by Sotheby's

The Cartier Santos: Exploring Diamond Models from the Sotheby's Archive

The Cartier Tank: Five Diamond Designs from the Sotheby’s Archive

Shop Cartier Watches

Cartier Calibre de Cartier (Reference WF100005). A rose gold diamond-set automatic wristwatch with date.

Cartier Baignoire (Reference WB520002). A rose gold diamond-set quartz wristwatch. 2014

Cartier Santos (Reference WGSA0018). A rose gold automatic wristwatch with date. 2019

Cartier Tank Americaine (Reference WB7045L1). A white gold diamond-set automatic wristwatch with date.

Cartier Santos Dumont Le Bresil Limited Edition (Reference WSSA0046). A platinum manual wristwatch. 2020

Cartier Tank a Vis Privee CPCP Collection (Reference W1529451). A yellow gold manual wristwatch. 2004

Cartier Santos (Reference WJSA0007). A rose gold automatic wristwatch. 2019

Cartier Santos (Reference WJSA0008). A yellow gold diamond-set automatic wristwatch. 2020

Cartier Ballon Bleu (Reference WGBB0042). A rose gold automatic wristwatch.

Cartier Baignoire XL (Reference WB520005). A yellow gold diamond-set manual wind wristwatch.

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A. Lange & Söhne

A. Lange & Söhne

In just a few short decades, the German brand has reestablished itself as the maker of some of the world’s greatest luxury watches.

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Learn More about A. Lange & Söhne

The Five Most Expensive A. Lange & Söhne Lots Sold at Sotheby’s

Reaching for the Moon with Watches by A. Lange & Söhne

An Interview with A. Lange & Söhne CEO Wilhelm Schmid

The Most Extensive Collection of A. Lange & Sohne’s Work

The Most Extensive Collection of A. Lange & Sohne’s Work

The Most Extensive Collection of A. Lange & Sohne’s Work

Shop A. Lange & Söhne Watches

A. Lange & Söhne

A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 (Reference 101.039). A white gold manual wristwatch with date.

A. Lange & Söhne

A. Lange & Söhne 1815 (Reference 233.025). A platinum manual wristwatch.

A. Lange & Söhne

A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia (Reference 842.032). A rose gold diamond-set automatic wristwatch.

A. Lange & Söhne

A. Lange & Söhne 1815 (Reference 233.025). A platinum manual wind wristwatch.

A. Lange & Söhne

A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 (Reference 115.032). A rose gold manual wind wristwatch with date.

A. Lange & Söhne

A. Lange & Söhne Grand Lange 1 (Reference 115.028). A white gold manual wind wristwatch with date.

A. Lange & Söhne

A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 (Reference 101.025). A platinum manual wind wristwatch with date and moonphase.

A. Lange & Söhne

A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Up/Down (Reference 405.035). A platinum manual wind wristwatch with date and chronograph. 2017

A. Lange & Söhne

A. Lange & Söhne Datograph (Reference 403.032). A rose gold manual wind wristwatch with date and chronograph.

A. Lange & Söhne

A. Lange & Söhne Grand Lange 1 (Reference 139.032). A rose gold manual wind wristwatch with date and moonphase. 2018.

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How Much Is Your Watch Collection Worth?

How Much Is Your Watch Collection Worth?

Sotheby’s Specialists are on hand to provide a free, no-strings-attached valuation.

Get In Touch

The best way to buy a Rolex watch without the waitlist is to buy it at auction at Sotheby’s

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View 2 of Auction: Arcade Sale | New York

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View 2 of Auction: Noble & Private Collections

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View 2 of Auction: Fine Watches

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View 2 of Auction: Fine Watches

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View 2 of Auction: Important Watches

View 2 of Auction: Important Watches

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6 December 2024 | 10:00 AM EST | New York

View 2 of Auction: The GOAT Collection: Watches & Treasures from Tom Brady

View 2 of Auction: The GOAT Collection: Watches & Treasures from Tom Brady

Upcoming Auction

The GOAT Collection: Watches & Treasures from Tom Brady

10 December 2024 | 7:30 PM EST | New York

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