How Coco Chanel Shaped Fashion History

How Coco Chanel Shaped Fashion History

Celebrate Coco Chanel’s birthday with us and take a deep dive into the legacy of this visionary icon.
Celebrate Coco Chanel’s birthday with us and take a deep dive into the legacy of this visionary icon.

C oco Chanel needs little introduction. A name synonymous with elegance, sophistication, and fashion itself, her designs and revolutionary approach to style have left an indelible mark on the fashion industry. On the occasion of her birthday on 19 August, we take a closer look at Coco Chanel, not just as a brand, but as the woman whose life and personal journey continue to resonate in the world of fashion today.


The Early Years: From Cabaret Singer to Fashion Visionary

Gabrielle Chanel, 31 rue Cambon, Paris, 1937. Photo by Roger Schall. © 1938 Shutterstock.
Chanel Haute Couture, 1932
Chanel Haute Couture, 1932 . Sold for 9,375 EUR at Sotheby's Paris in 2015. WestImage - Art Digital Studio

Gabrielle Coco Chanel was born in 1883 in Saumur, France. Her early years were tumultuous, growing up in an orphanage after the death of her mother. It was there that she learned to sew, a skill that would later define her career. Chanel initially aspired to be a cabaret singer, performing in small venues and earning her famous nickname “Coco” from a popular song she sang. However, her dream of a singing career never fully materialised, pivoting towards the fashion world.

Chanel began her career as a seamstress, working in a small shop where she gained practical experience in fashion. In 1910, she opened her first boutique at 21 Rue Cambon in Paris as a milliner. Her designs quickly garnered interest for their simplicity and elegance, and she expanded her business to include clothing in 1913, where she challenged the rigid fashion norms of that era. In 1918, Chanel moved into a larger premise down the road, at 31 Rue Cambon. Gone were the tight corsets and rigid materials favoured at the time – Coco Chanel instead opted for comfortable jersey fabrics and loose, relaxed silhouettes. Her personal style was a reflection of her design ethos: minimalist, elegant, and comfortable. She believed in the power of simplicity and the beauty of understated luxury – something that informed all her designs in the years to come.

Chanel Gold Pearl Haute Couture Choker, circa 1950s
Chanel Gold Plated with Resin Pearl Haute Couture Fantasy Choker, circa 1950's . Sold for 12,600 CHF at Sotheby's Geneva in 2021.

The Post-War Transformation: Establishing a Couture Empire

Chanel Haute Couture, 1960
Chanel Haute couture, 1960 . Sold for 8,125 EUR at Sotheby's Paris in 2017.

While Chanel had already made a name for herself before World War I, it was after the war that she truly revolutionised women’s fashion. The war had changed societal norms, and women sought practicality in their clothing. Chanel responded with her now-iconic designs that blended comfort with style. Her use of jersey fabrics, which had previously been used primarily for men's underwear, not only challenged traditional fashion but also redefined femininity. Each and every design she created sought to underscore this marriage of form, function and freedom.

The little black dress, a wardrobe staple widely known today as an “LBD”, is one of Chanel's most iconic creations, and truly epitomised her design philosophy at the time. "Simplicity is the keynote of all true elegance”, she famously once said. Introduced in 1926, the little black dress was instantly loved for its chic versatility. Who could say no to this effortless, one-and-done style solution? Chanel's early designs set the stage for a new era in fashion, where practicality and style coexisted harmoniously.

A Life Intertwined with Art and Cinema

As a costume designer in Jean Cocteau's musical theater work "Le train bleu" in 1924, Coco Chanel shows what the swimwear of the Roaring Twenties had to offer: lots of skin and freedom of movement. Sasha/Getty Images

Coco Chanel's life was deeply punctuated by cinematic influence. She had a profound love for movies and was known to have close relationships with several prominent figures in the art world, including artist Pablo Picasso and poet and playwright Jean Cocteau. Chanel collaborated with Cocteau on various projects, including designing costumes for his films and plays. Her work in film extended beyond just costume design – she saw cinema as a powerful medium to express her vision of modernity and elegance.

Chanel’s personal life was equally complex, marked by a series of influential relationships that shaped her worldview and, by extension, her designs. Her relationship with the Duke of Westminster, one of the wealthiest men in the world, introduced her to the world of English tweed, inspiring her to create the iconic Chanel tweed suit. This suit became a symbol of modern womanhood, combining masculine elements with a distinctly feminine silhouette.

Iconic Handbags: A Legacy in Leather

Handbags have always been a significant part of Chanel's legacy, but it wasn’t until February 1955 that she introduced what would become one of the most iconic handbags in fashion history – the 2.55. The quilted leather design, inspired by the jackets worn by jockeys, added luxurious appeal while enhancing durability. The rectangular Mademoiselle Lock referenced Chanel's unmarried status, while the burgundy lining was a nod to the convent uniforms from her childhood. The 2.55 was more than just a bag; it was a statement of independence and sophistication, qualities that Chanel herself embodied.

Over the years, the 2.55 evolved into the Classic Flap, with Karl Lagerfeld adding the interlocking CC logo in the 1980s, further cementing its status as a timeless accessory. This handbag, like many of Chanel’s designs, remains a coveted piece, cherished for its elegance and versatility.

The Camellia: A Symbol of Purity and Elegance

Another emblem closely associated with Chanel is the camellia flower. Chanel was captivated by its purity and simplicity, a fascination that began after watching the play La Dame aux Camélias. The flower soon became a recurring motif in her designs, symbolising the elegance and understated beauty that Chanel so admired. From high jewellery to skincare products, the camellia has remained a central element in the Chanel brand, representing the lasting influence of its founder’s vision and the original house codes that still ring loud and true to the brand today.

Chanel Haute Couture, 1963
Chanel Haute Couture, 1963 . Sold for 8,125 EUR at Sotheby's Paris in 2015.

Coco Chanel: An Enduring Legacy

Chanel's influence on contemporary fashion is undeniable. Her timeless creations, such as the tweed suit, the little black dress, and the quilted classic flap handbag, remain relevant and coveted today. Her namesake brand holds universal admiration with appeal that spans generations. Modern celebrities and timeless fashion legends alike have been dedicated fans of the brand, with loyal customers and ambassadors including Elizabeth Taylor, Grace Kelly, Jennie Kim, Margot Robbie, Kristen Stewart, among others.

Chanel's ability to stay relevant in a constantly evolving fashion landscape is a testament to her visionary approach to design. In Chanel’s very own words, “fashion changes, but style endures.”

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