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I n 2015, Ludivine Griveau became the first female winemaker in Hospices de Beaune’s centuries-long history. Over the past 10 vintages, Ludivine has fine-tuned the cellar to craft refined, more precise wines, and over the past seven years, she has turned her attention to the vineyard. To convert all 60-hectares under Hospices’ vineyard portfolio at the same time is an incredible feat that took great organization, determination and foresight!
It is inspirational to see the transformation in the vineyard, the winery and the cuvées under Ludivine’s leadership. She balances innovation with respect for Burgundian winemaking traditions, crafting wines that are celebrated for their purity, complexity and age-worthiness. Her technical expertise, commitment to sustainability and dedication to Burgundy’s heritage mark her as a trailblazer in the region.
In advance of the 164th Vente des Vins des Hospices de Beaune auction on 17 November, I had the opportunity to speak with Ludivine about her vision for the Hospices de Beaune, the organic transition process and the 2024 vintage.
Jeannie Cho Lee
When did the concept of making Hospices de Beaune more sustainable and organic first form in your mind?
Ludivine Griveau
I joined the domaine in 2015, and the previous winemaker had already started to transform some parcels. But only a few members of the team were really thinking about going organic. I should say that when people think about organic processes, they imagine that everything is done by nature itself. That’s only somewhat true. We are confident in what nature will give us, and we trust in what the vineyard can develop in good health, but we do spray some organic-based products and use machines like tractors. But our soils are protected. Organic processes have to be seen as ensuring the best natural conditions that we can in order to make great wine.
Jeannie Cho Lee
What were the biggest challenges in going organic? Did you find anything discouraging, or where there any factors that made you question whether to continue pursuing the organic certification?
Ludivine Griveau
It was quite often difficult. Working in a vineyard is very hard. Even when you’re doing your best, working long hours with few days off, working weekends, early mornings, late evenings – even then, sometimes, it’s not enough to overcome the high disease pressure. Going organic is hard on vines, and it can be a little bit discouraging to feel like you can lose your crop without seeing any positive feedback from the plant. But the plant is still fighting; it’s just that we can’t see it. So the main challenge was keeping my team motivated by my side and maintaining our conviction that this is the best way forward for the domaine. This success is a team success.
“It’s one thing to work hard in the vineyard, but that doesn’t mean it will become a great wine.”
Jeannie Cho Lee
And 2024 was a particularly challenging vintage in Burgundy. Tell us about what you had to go through this year.
Ludivine Griveau
The rainy conditions were particularly disturbing this year. There were very small windows when we could spray the vineyards, so we constantly had to be ready to go at the starting block. When we started this vintage, we thought the conditions would only last a couple of weeks, but actually there were 16 weeks of poor weather.
The other challenge was how to make the right decisions about which treatments to use, and in what quantities. We decided to spray more often but with small quantities.
Just yesterday we started our tastings of the 2024 vintage with buyers, which confirmed for me that we were right to take the approach we did. We managed to produce 438 barrels and 3 half barrels – much more than we produce normally, and more than many other winemakers were able to produce this year.
Jeannie Cho Lee
Congratulations! Another challenge of your estate is its size. You’re located to the north in Chablis and to the south in Pouilly-Fuissé. How does that affect your operations and logistics?
Ludivine Griveau
We worked seven days a week! As you pointed out, we are 60 hectares under the vine, divided among 23 employees who are each in charge of roughly 2.5 hectares. What was particularly difficult about this year was feeling like I was the head winemaker of 23 different estates instead of just one. My assistant, Sebastien, and I checked each parcel every week. Then, the head of each parcel was in charge of visiting a second parcel once a week to check on the evolution. We also used assistance from an organization called Fredon, which provides services to protect the vegetation of vineyards across Burgundy.
In the end, we managed control the disease pressure during the growing season. All of this together provided me with a full appraisal.
Jeannie Cho Lee
After having undergone this amazing process, how do you feel about the 2024 vintage now that it has finished fermenting? Personally, I was quite surprised by its quality – it is very well balanced and harmonious, with lovely detailed flavors.
Ludivine Griveau
I’m so glad you asked, because it’s one thing to work hard in the vineyard, but that doesn’t mean it will become a great wine. Even before people came to taste the vintage, I felt really proud of all that we’d accomplished and the wonderful grapes that we’d grown.
Now, over the last few days, we’ve been welcoming in a lot of people to taste the wines, including other winemakers. It’s been a wonderful opportunity to share and discuss with them. Every single person was impressed. We heard only congratulations and compliments – even coming from people who, I can tell you, would not be afraid to say if they don’t like something.
“Organic processes have to be seen as ensuring the best natural conditions that we can in order to make great wine.”
We have intense aromas in both the Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, and we have well-balanced acidities. The tannins in the reds are so pure, so direct and to-the-point but still with texture and body. They responded very well to the new oak, which is very well integrated. The new oak was also very helpful for the whites’ expressions – they’re showing very well. All 51 cuvées are quite different, but I’m proud of them all. It’s like being a mother: you always find them beautiful even if you might wake up one day and realize they’re not perfect [laughter].
Jeannie Cho Lee
Well I’m going to extend my congratulations as well, because I tasted them many times with you. Bravo! It’s a fantastic vintage. I find the wines to be in that classic style that true Burgundy lovers have always enjoyed. The elegance, the refinement, the finesse, the purity – all of those characters are in this vintage, and it’s wonderful to be able to see them in so many different forms because these are your 51 different children!
Ludivine Griveau
The wines are already showing very well right now. As you know, when you don’t have to wait too long for a wine to be good then it means the job is done. As of tonight, I feel like the job is done. Now it’s time to welcome people in and let them taste the wines.
