Hermès Haut à Courroies: The Original Birkin Bag
Learn about the Hermès Haut à Courroies, the original luxury travel bag that paved the way for the legendary Birkin.
For over a century, Hermès has been synonymous with unparalleled craftsmanship, timeless elegance, and innovative design. Among its most iconic creations stands the Haut à Courroies (HAC), a bag that not only pioneered Hermès’ journey into the world of luxury accessories but also served as the inspiration for the world-famous Birkin bag. In this article, we’ll explore the rich history, evolution, and enduring appeal of the Hermès Haut à Courroies—a true testament to the brand’s legacy.
Hermès Haut à Courroies: The Original Birkin Bag
Hermès’ first-ever bag, the Haut à Courroies, or HAC for short, debuted in the early 20th century. Originally designed with practicality in mind, it was intended to elegantly carry equestrian essentials such as a saddle and riding boots. Over the decades, the HAC has undergone numerous transformations while preserving its signature timelessness, a hallmark of all Hermès creations. Today, the HAC remains a beloved piece among Hermès aficionados, particularly male buyers who often use it as a sophisticated alternative to briefcases or backpacks. Larger HACs are also favored as versatile travel or weekend bags.
Haut à Courroies translates to “high belt” in French, referring to the distinctive closure straps that secure the top of the bag. Beyond its functional origins, the HAC holds a pivotal place in Hermès’ history due to its connection with the Birkin bag. When Jean-Louis Dumas famously sketched a design for Jane Birkin on the back of an air-sickness bag during a flight from London to Paris, he drew inspiration from the HAC. This lineage firmly establishes the HAC as the forebear of one of the most coveted bags in the world.
The Hermès HAC's Evolution
As the Birkin gained prominence, Hermès also began creating smaller versions of the HAC. While the original Birkins were crafted in 35 and 40cm sizes, the first small HACs measured 32cm across. By the 2000s, the HAC—often referred to as the “HAC Birkin”—was available in even smaller sizes, including 28 and 35cm. One key distinction between the HAC and the Birkin lies in the hardware. Most HACs feature a square-tipped spindle and tubular pontets, though exceptions exist, particularly among HAC 32s produced in the late 1990s and early 2000s.
Limited Edition Haut à Courroies
In recent years, Hermès has released a variety of limited edition HACs, showcasing the brand’s commitment to innovation and artistry. These exclusive designs feature unique details such as intricate embroidery, leather marquetry, hand-painted finishes, and cutting-edge materials. The Rock HAC, for instance, takes inspiration from a classic biker jacket, incorporating exterior pockets and chain accents over smooth black leather. While most limited editions are produced in 40 or 50cm sizes, other HACs can be found in larger dimensions, including 45, 55, and 60cm
The Smallest HAC: A Modern Twist
Recently, Hermès reinvented the HAC as a compact crossbody bag. Known as the HAC à Dos, this modern iteration combines the classic HAC hardware with an adjustable Amazone canvas strap, making it a versatile and stylish choice for today’s fashion enthusiasts. Available in two sizes, PM and GM, the HAC à Dos represents an exciting new chapter in the history of Hermès’ longest-lived design.
From its origins as an equestrian essential to its role as the inspiration behind the iconic Birkin, the Hermès Haut à Courroies has cemented its place as a cornerstone of luxury fashion. Whether as a functional work bag, a travel companion, or a collectible masterpiece, the HAC continues to captivate generations of Hermès lovers with its timeless elegance and enduring ap
Advantages to Buying Hermès Birkin on the Secondary Market
1. Access
Sotheby's is able to provide access to a curated selection of Birkin bags from its long established global network of sellers. Sotheby's is a leading global marketplace that offers pristine Birkin bags in the most popular colors, materials and sizes along with rare Himalayan and Limited Edition Birkin bags. Our handbag specialists are always sourcing the more desirable Birkin bags from collectors around the world. Sotheby's also sells incredible private collections that include one of a kind Hermès Birkin bags.
2. Flexibility
Sotheby's provides multiple ways to purchase Birkin bags including auction, online, and in person in New York, Hong Kong, Zurich, Paris and London. Sotheby's also offers a concierge service if you need assistance sourcing a specific Birkin bag that isn't available at auction or online.
3. Value
While Birkin bags in pristine condition sell at a premium to retail, Sotheby's has bags for purchase at auction and marketplace in a range of the most desirable colors and materials. Secondary marketplaces like Sotheby's allow a buyer to purchase a store fresh pristine Birkin bag with the original box and all plastic still on the hardware without waiting for a call from an Hermès sales associate. While it is possible to purchase a Birkin Bag at an Hermès boutique, it is hard to predict how long it will take. Additionally if you don't have an existing relationship at the store, it is even harder to pick the exact bag including size, color and hardware. In many cases you may be offered a Birkin that may not be your desired color or size. Buyers also come to Sotheby's since they want to purchase more than two Birkin bags in a year. While we encourage you to build a relationship with an Hermès Sales Associate, Sotheby's can save you time when purchasing a Birkin.
4. Discovery
One of the best parts of a global luxury marketplace is discovering unique one of a kind Birkins or rare limited edition Birkin bags that are no longer available at Hermès. Sotheby's curated selection changes regularly and each auction has a unique selection of Birkin bags. You are likely to discover something new to you from Hermès.
Buy and Sell Hermès Birkin Bags at Sotheby's
Sotheby's always has a curated selection of the top Hermès Birkin bags available for immediate shipping. Sotheby's also sells Hermès bags at auction in New York, Paris, Zurich and Hong Kong. Expect to find rare and collectible Birkin and Kelly bags in every sale in addition to other popular Hermès bags in pristine condition in the newest colors and classic neutrals. Sotheby's handbag sales include rare and limited edition Hermès bags in exotic materials, custom color combinations and even diamond hardware.
Prices for Hermès bags range from $3,000 to $5,000 at the low end for the Herbag, Garden Party and Evelyne TPM. Prices for the most sought after Birkin and Kelly bags start at around $20,000 and can exceed $100,000 for the rarest and most desirable limited edition Birkin or Kelly bags.
- Explore upcoming handbag auctions in New York, London, Switzerland, Paris, and Hong Kong.
- Speak to a Salon Associate in New York, Zurich, London, Paris, or Hong Kong to schedule an appointment.
- Contact a Handbag Specialist about selling an Hermès bag or submit your item here for valuation.
Trust our worldwide network of leading handbag specialists from a globally renowned auction house established in 1744.
