Hermès Birkin Sellier: A More Structured Birkin Bag

Few luxury handbags hold as much prestige and allure as the Hermès Birkin. Since its inception in 1984, the Birkin bag has become a symbol of timeless elegance, superior craftsmanship, and exclusivity. Named after actress and singer Jane Birkin, this iconic handbag was originally designed to be a functional yet luxurious everyday bag. For decades, Hermès produced Birkin bags in a single construction style known as Retourne, featuring soft, rounded edges and a more relaxed silhouette.

However, in 2014, Hermès introduced the Birkin Sellier, a structured variation that mirrors the Sellier construction of the Kelly bag. Unlike the traditional Retourne Birkin, the Sellier Birkin boasts sharp, defined edges with external stitching, resulting in a more rigid, architectural appearance. This structured design has since captivated collectors and fashion aficionados, offering a fresh take on an already iconic bag.

For years, Hermès collectors had the option of choosing between two distinct Kelly bag styles: Retourne and Sellier. The key difference lies in their construction. Sellier Kelly bags showcase visible exterior stitching that creates a firm, boxy shape, while Retourne Kelly bags feature concealed stitching for a softer, more pliable form. Until recently, the Birkin bag was exclusively crafted using the Retourne method.

The Sellier Birkin made its debut in 2014 as a limited-edition release in 40cm Vache Hunter leather. These early versions were unlined and included unique design features that set them apart from standard Birkins. Following the positive reception, Hermès expanded the Sellier Birkin line, incorporating a fully realized interior and offering the bag in sizes 25, 30, and 35cm. Various leather options, including Box, Epsom, Madame, Monsieur, and Vache Naturelle Grainee, further enhanced the desirability of this structured Birkin.

Since 2020, Sellier Birkins have steadily gained traction in the luxury resale market, though they remain a rare find, making up only about 5% of all Birkin bags sold at auction. The exclusivity of the Sellier Birkin has driven prices significantly higher than their Retourne counterparts. In 2022, the average auction price for a Sellier Birkin neared $28,000, a striking 70% increase over the Retourne Birkin's average of $16,500. Similarly, Sellier Kelly bags have consistently commanded a 25% to 35% premium over Retourne Kelly bags, with their values appreciating by approximately 10% annually.

One of the most coveted variations of the Sellier Birkin is the 20cm Hermès Faubourg Sellier Birkin. First introduced in 2019, this ultra-collectible handbag was released in day and night editions, featuring intricate leatherwork that mirrors the façade of Hermès' iconic flagship boutique at 24 Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré in Paris. With a combination of multiple leathers and matte alligator flaps, these exquisite designs quickly became must-have pieces for collectors.

At auction, the Faubourg Sellier Birkins have commanded staggering prices, averaging over $160,000—more than triple their original retail price of under $50,000. The subsequent La Neige and Midnight So Black editions, released in 2021 and 2022, further heightened the desirability of this micro-sized masterpiece. The La Neige version showcases a matte Béton Alligator body with delicate snow accents, while the Midnight So Black variant features black PVD hardware reminiscent of the highly sought-after So Black collection. These exclusive iterations often trade privately for over $300,000. Collecting all four Faubourg Sellier Birkins is considered a significant achievement among Hermès aficionados, with the full set sometimes referred to as a Beijing Courtyard or a Place du Faubourg.

In 2020, Hermès further expanded its Sellier Birkin offerings with the release of the Sunrise and Sunset editions. These striking 35cm Sellier Birkins feature bold, curved stripes of color, reminiscent of the graceful arc of a Birkin bag's top edge. Finished with palladium hardware, these Sunrise and Sunset Birkins brought a fresh artistic flair to the classic structured silhouette.

At auction, the designs have consistently commanded strong prices, averaging around $34,000. More recently, a third colorway, evoking the hues of dusk, has been spotted on Hermès Bolide bags, leaving collectors eager to see if this stunning gradient will make its way onto a Sellier Birkin in the near future.

The introduction of the Sellier Birkin has added an exciting new dimension to the world of Hermès handbags. By offering a more structured alternative to the classic Retourne Birkin, Hermès has given collectors yet another exquisite option to consider. With its refined craftsmanship, rarity, and rising auction prices, the Sellier Birkin has solidified itself as a must-have piece for serious collectors and luxury enthusiasts alike.

As demand continues to grow and new variations emerge, the Sellier Birkin is poised to remain a coveted treasure in the world of high fashion. Whether one prefers the relaxed elegance of the Retourne or the crisp precision of the Sellier, there's no denying that the Birkin remains the ultimate status symbol, an enduring testament to Hermès' unparalleled artistry and innovation.

Sotheby's is able to provide access to a curated selection of Birkin bags from its long established global network of sellers. Sotheby's is a leading global marketplace that offers pristine Birkin bags in the most popular colors, materials and sizes along with rare Himalayan and Limited Edition Birkin bags. Our handbag specialists are always sourcing the more desirable Birkin bags from collectors around the world. Sotheby's also sells incredible private collections that include one of a kind Hermès Birkin bags.

Sotheby's provides multiple ways to purchase Birkin bags including auction, online, and in person in New York, Hong Kong, Zurich, Paris and London. Sotheby's also offers a concierge service if you need assistance sourcing a specific Birkin bag that isn't available at auction or online.

While Birkin bags in pristine condition sell at a premium to retail, Sotheby's has bags for purchase at auction and marketplace in a range of the most desirable colors and materials. Secondary marketplaces like Sotheby's allow a buyer to purchase a store fresh pristine Birkin bag with the original box and all plastic still on the hardware without waiting for a call from an Hermès sales associate. While it is possible to purchase a Birkin Bag at an Hermès boutique, it is hard to predict how long it will take. Additionally if you don't have an existing relationship at the store, it is even harder to pick the exact bag including size, color and hardware. In many cases you may be offered a Birkin that may not be your desired color or size. Buyers also come to Sotheby's since they want to purchase more than two Birkin bags in a year. While we encourage you to build a relationship with an Hermès Sales Associate, Sotheby's can save you time when purchasing a Birkin.

One of the best parts of a global luxury marketplace is discovering unique one of a kind Birkins or rare limited edition Birkin bags that are no longer available at Hermès. Sotheby's curated selection changes regularly and each auction has a unique selection of Birkin bags. You are likely to discover something new to you from Hermès.

Sotheby's always has a curated selection of the top Hermès Birkin bags available for immediate shipping. Sotheby's also sells Hermès bags at auction in New York, Paris, Zurich and Hong Kong. Expect to find rare and collectible Birkin and Kelly bags in every sale in addition to other popular Hermès bags in pristine condition in the newest colors and classic neutrals. Sotheby's handbag sales include rare and limited edition Hermès bags in exotic materials, custom color combinations and even diamond hardware.

Prices for Hermès bags range from $3,000 to $5,000 at the low end for the Herbag, Garden Party and Evelyne TPM. Prices for the most sought after Birkin and Kelly bags start at around $20,000 and can exceed $100,000 for the rarest and most desirable limited edition Birkin or Kelly bags.

• Explore upcoming handbag auctions in New York, London, Switzerland, Paris, and Hong Kong.
• Speak to a Salon Associate in New York, Zurich, London, Paris, or Hong Kong to schedule an appointment.
• Contact a Handbag Specialist about selling an Hermès bag or submit your item here for valuation.

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