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From Van Cleef & Arpels to Buccellati and Bulgari: A Story of Family Jewels
As The PHILLIPS Family Collection comes to the rostrum on 4 April in Hong Kong, Uni Kim dives into the family story of cherished jewels and a love for exquisite artistry.
I n a world where heirlooms are often tucked away in private vaults, there is rarely an opportunity to witness the beauty and craftsmanship of a cherished family collection. A remarkable assortment of jewellery – carefully curated over the decades – is now poised to make its debut at auction. In an exclusive interview, Uni Kim, Sotheby’s Asia Co-Head of Sale, Jewellery, we delve into the captivating story behind an extraordinary collection and explore the exquisite pieces that have captivated the hearts of generations.
The collection's origins offer us an intimate glimpse into the family's careful eye for both unique and iconic jewellery designs. Now, ready to share their collection with the world, this auction is a means to spread the joy of wearing and adoring these beloved pieces. It is a testament to the family's profound appreciation for the artistry of jewellery and each unique piece that was collected.
“The hope is that the new owners of these pieces would utilise and enjoy these designs in their daily life.”
Over decades, members of the family developed relationships with the jewellers, giving them knowledge of and deep appreciation for each piece. Designs were sought out not just for their value but for their craftsmanship and personal appeal. The family’s connections with renowned designers, particularly Buccellati and Bulgari, add a sense of exclusivity to the collection. A number of unique pieces were offered directly and solely to the family.
The collection showcases a remarkable display of craftsmanship, which was another criteria that had to be met. Think Buccellati’s signature rigato technique, where tiny strokes are painstakingly engraved onto precious metals to give a sheen akin to the lustre of silk. “The technique, the hours, the effort by the jewellers—it's really all about the craftsmanship,” the family shares. Some examples from the sale include a Mario Buccellati Diamond Cuff Bracelet and a Gianmaria Buccellati Diamond Demi Parure among other pieces from the esteemed jewellery house.
Discover More Buccellati From The Collection
This passion for the craft extended into more unconventional stones and materials and an affinity for all colours of the rainbow. An abundance of coloured gemstones and other less common raw materials are present throughout the collection, from wood and peridot to coral and chalcedony. Part of this collection’s uniqueness lies in this vast range of colour and material and the differences between each design. The jewellery was truly treasured, with some pieces being worn on an almost daily basis and even to sleep. Other pieces were so cherished they were collected in various other colours and materials so as to match different outfits. One such beloved piece was the Van Cleef & Arpels Rose de Noël. Available at the sale are four beautiful iterations from 1805-1890 featuring materials like coral, diamonds and mother-of-pearl.
‘Rose de Noël’ Coral and Diamond Demi-Parure | Estimate: 120,000 - 150,000 HKD
‘Rose de Noël’ Coral and Diamond Demi-Parure | Estimate: 120,000 - 150,000 HKD
'Rose de Noël' Mother-of-Pearl and Diamond Demi-Parure | Estimate: 130,000 - 160,000 HKD
'Rose de Noël' Mother-of-Pearl and Diamond Demi-Parure | Estimate: 170,000 - 240,000 HKD
Beyond their material beauty, these jewels hold sentimental value. They were not objects to be observed from a distance, but a part of the family’s day-to-day life. Most of the pieces were not kept in a safe; instead, they were worn and paired with different outfits for just about any circumstance. “These pieces were taken out and treasured,” the family shares.
This collection honours a legacy and is testament to a love for jewellery that transcends generations. These treasured pieces will find new homes, allowing others to experience the same joy and enchantment that the collectors have felt throughout the years. This was something expressed by the family, a desire for each piece to get a new lease on life via their next owner. “The hope is that the new owners of these pieces would utilise and enjoy these designs in their daily life.”
