Five Rare Patek Philippe Calatrava Models from the Sotheby's Archive

Patek Philippe is synonymous with Swiss horological excellence, revered for its masterful craftsmanship, technical precision, and timeless designs. Established in 1839, the brand has consistently pushed the boundaries of watchmaking while maintaining an unwavering commitment to tradition. Among its most iconic creations is the Calatrava, introduced in 1932 as the ultimate dress watch. Characterized by its elegant simplicity, the Calatrava embodies the essence of refined minimalism, proving that true luxury lies in detail and artistry rather than excess.

Over the decades, the Calatrava collection has evolved, incorporating intricate handcraft techniques, limited-edition designs, and exclusive materials, while never straying from its fundamental principles of balance and sophistication. Sotheby’s has had the privilege of bringing some of the rarest and most extraordinary Patek Philippe Calatrava models to market—watches that not only exemplify Patek Philippe’s watchmaking prowess but also tell compelling stories of provenance and craftsmanship. Below, we explore five exceptional examples that have captivated collectors and connoisseurs alike.

Patek Philippe Calatrava, Reference 5088/100P-001, Circa 2014, 176,400 USD

This Patek Philippe Calatrava Reference 5088/100P-001 was sold in December 2021 for 176,400 USD.

Originally released in 2014 as part of the Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts series, this model commemorated the brand’s 175th anniversary. Crafted in platinum, its striking champlevé black enamel dial showcases the brand’s commitment to the art of enameling—a meticulous technique requiring unparalleled skill. The watch was further complemented by a set of matching white gold cufflinks, also adorned with the rare champlevé enamel technique.

Adding to its desirability, this piece was retailed by Tiffany & Co. and was sold by Sotheby’s complete with its original packaging and documentation. The Reference 5088/100P-001 is a true testament to Patek Philippe’s ability to seamlessly blend traditional craftsmanship with contemporary aesthetics, making it a collector’s dream.

Patek Philippe Calatrava Reference 3998P Circa 2002, 139,700 CHF

This Patek Philippe Calatrava Reference 3998P was sold for 139,700 CHF in November 2023.

One of the most enigmatic Calatrava models to surface in the market, this platinum Reference 3998P stands out with its Egyptian hieroglyph-adorned dial. This rare piece first appeared in the public eye in 2014, with no known precedents of a Patek Philippe model featuring hieroglyphics, making it an unparalleled discovery in the brand’s history. The inscriptions spell out "SAUD" at 6 o’clock and "AL TANI" at 12 o’clock, offering a deeply personal and bespoke touch.

The watch’s provenance traces back to Sheikh Saud bin Mohammed Al-Thani, a renowned Qatari prince and passionate art collector. Al-Thani, famed for owning the legendary Patek Philippe Henry Graves Supercomplication, was known for commissioning unique timepieces, further elevating this watch’s significance. The Reference 3998P is a brilliant example of Patek Philippe’s artistry, coupled with a fascinating historical connection.

Patek Philippe Calatrava Reference 5089 Circa 2016, 1,168,400 HKD

This Patek Philippe Calatrava Reference 5089 was sold for 1,168,400 HKD in October 2023.

Created to celebrate Patek Philippe’s 175th anniversary, the Reference 5089 is an extraordinary expression of artistic horology. This white gold model features a mesmerizing dial crafted using the intricate technique of wood marquetry. The dial portrays a breathtaking scenic view of Lake Geneva, inspired by a vintage postcard, brought to life through an assembly of carefully selected wood veneers.

The hinged caseback bears the engraving “175 Anniversaire 1839-2014,” marking its place in the brand’s rich history. Opening the back reveals the meticulously decorated movement, further emphasizing Patek Philippe’s dedication to both aesthetic and mechanical perfection. As part of the esteemed Rare Handcrafts series, this model is not just a timepiece—it is a celebration of the brand’s commitment to preserving and innovating age-old decorative techniques.

Patek Philippe Calatrava Rare Handcrafts Reference 5177G-017 Circa 2021, 119,700 CHF

This Patek Philippe Calatrava Rare Handcrafts Reference 5177G-017 was sold for 119,700 CHF in November 2022.

The Reference 5177G-017 exemplifies Patek Philippe’s dedication to preserving Geneva’s horological traditions. Featuring an exquisite blue guilloché and cloisonné enamel dial, this watch is a masterpiece of both craftsmanship and innovation. The intricate enamel patterns, combined with the delicate guilloché work, create a stunning interplay of texture and depth.

Accompanied by a Rare Handcrafts certificate, this 2021 model reinforces Patek Philippe’s role as a guardian of traditional techniques. By continuously supporting and reviving these age-old crafts, the brand ensures that its timepieces remain not only mechanical marvels but also unparalleled works of art.

Patek Philippe Calatrava Reference 6007, Circa 2019, 630,000 HKD

This Patek Philippe Calatrava Reference 6007 was sold in April 2021 for 630,000 HKD.

Introduced in 2019 to mark the completion of Patek Philippe’s new state-of-the-art manufacture in Geneva, the limited-edition Reference 6007 is a striking departure from traditional Calatrava aesthetics. Encased in stainless steel, it features a bold grey-blue dial with an embossed carbon pattern—an avant-garde design inspired by modern materials and textures.

Enhanced by luminous hour markers and hands, this watch represents a rare fusion of contemporary style and classic craftsmanship. Limited to just 1,000 pieces, the Reference 6007 was met with immediate enthusiasm from collectors. Its distinctive design and historical significance make it a highly sought-after piece, symbolizing the brand’s seamless transition into the future of watchmaking.

Each of these rare Patek Philippe Calatrava models represents a unique chapter in the brand’s storied legacy. From the hieroglyph-adorned Reference 3998P to the commemorative Reference 6007, these watches are more than just precision timepieces—they are expressions of artistry, history, and personal narratives.

Sotheby’s has had the privilege of bringing some of the most remarkable Calatrava watches to auction, allowing collectors to acquire and appreciate these extraordinary creations. Whether through intricate enamel work, pioneering dial designs, or historical connections, these timepieces stand as a testament to Patek Philippe’s unwavering dedication to craftsmanship and innovation—ensuring that the Calatrava remains an icon of horology for generations to come.

Advantages to Buying Patek Philippe Watches on the Secondary Market

1. Access

Sotheby’s provides exclusive access to a curated selection of Patek Philippe watches from its long established global network of sellers. As a leading marketplace, Sotheby's offers exceptional Patek Philippe timepieces, from iconic classics to rare references. Our watch specialists are dedicated to sourcing the most desirable Patek Philippe watch models from collectors around the world.

2. Flexibility

Sotheby’s offers multiple ways to purchase Patek Philippe watches, including online and in person at our locations in New York, Hong Kong, Zurich, Paris, and London. We also provide a concierge service to help source specific Patek Philippe watch models not available online.

3. Value

While authorized Patek Philippe boutiques offer their latest collections, finding specific models—especially those with strong collector demand—can be challenging due to availability constraints. Sotheby’s presents a curated selection of Patek Philippe watches, including rare and discontinued references, available for purchase without the need to visit multiple retailers. Shopping with Sotheby’s ensures access to exceptional Patek Philippe timepieces, from vintage icons to modern grail watches, all authenticated by experts.

4. Discovery

One of the greatest advantages of shopping in a global luxury marketplace is the chance to discover unique, limited-production Patek Philippe watches no longer available at retail. Our curated selection of Patek Philippe watches is continuously refreshed, ensuring that you’ll always find something new and exclusive.

Buy and Sell Patek Philippe Calatrava Watches at Sotheby's

Sotheby’s offers a curated selection of the finest Patek Philippe watches available for immediate purchase, as well as through auctions held in New York, Paris, Zurich, and Hong Kong. Expect to find rare and collectible Patek Philippe models in every sale, including iconic pieces like the Patek Philippe Nautilus, Grand Complications, Aquanat, and more in exceptional condition. Sotheby’s auctions feature an array of Patek Philippe timepieces, ranging from elegant vintage models to contemporary masterpieces, showcasing the brand’s unmatched craftsmanship and innovation.

Prices for Patek Philippe watches start around $15,000 for models like the Patek Philippe Calatrava and rise significantly for highly sought-after pieces. Iconic models such as the Grand Complications and Patek Philippe Nautilus often command starting prices of around $30,000, while rare collectible editions can exceed $150,000.

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