Evolution of the Hermès Mini Kelly Bag
Discover the evolution of the Hermès Mini Kelly bag—from its origins to its status as a fashion icon. Explore its history, design changes, and lasting appeal.
History of the Hermès Mini Kelly
The Hermès Mini Kelly is a testament to the brand’s dedication to timeless elegance and craftsmanship. While the Kelly bag itself dates back to the 1930s, gaining worldwide recognition after Princess Grace Kelly of Monaco famously used it in the 1950s, the Mini Kelly is a more recent development. The earliest known Mini Kelly was introduced in 1957, featuring a mid-length shoulder strap. However, the signature round top-handle, now commonly referred to as a "bracelet handle," did not appear until 1980.
By 1990, Hermès had introduced the Mini Kelly 20 in Retourne construction, a model that remains one of the rarest variations today. Despite its popularity, Hermès discontinued the Mini Kelly in 2009, making post-2004 examples incredibly scarce. However, as the demand for smaller bags surged, Hermès reintroduced the Mini Kelly 20 II with a redesigned structure featuring a more compact handle and reduced depth. Unlike their larger counterparts, Mini Kelly bags never included locks, keys, or clochettes, but they have always been available with shoulder straps since their inception.
Design History of Hermès Mini Kelly
The Hermès Kelly bag has existed in various forms for over a century, yet details about its evolution remain somewhat elusive. Unlike other luxury brands that publicly document their design changes, Hermès relies on dedicated collectors, historians, and auction data to piece together its history. The Mini Kelly’s design has undergone subtle but meaningful refinements over the years, making certain versions highly sought after in the resale market.
The Hermès Kelly 25
The Kelly 25, a slightly larger yet still compact alternative to the Mini Kelly, has been in existence since at least the early 1960s. Early models from this period are rare and feature full-sized Plaque hardware rather than the miniature hardware seen on today's Kelly 25 and 20 bags. Surprisingly, Kelly 20 bags from earlier than the 1960s have been found, though they have always featured miniaturized hardware from their inception.
While Kelly 25 bags have always included a lock, key, and clochette, a shoulder strap was not introduced until more recently. Many believe the addition of a strap coincided with the release of the Hermès Birkin bag between 1984 and 1986. At that time, Hermès used a pinch-clasp on the straps, a design that was phased out for round clips between 1989 and 1990. In 1996, Palladium hardware was introduced to the Kelly line, and by 2000, a second loop was added to the handle attachments to make strap use more practical. Since then, the design of the Kelly 25 has remained largely unchanged, with the most significant development being the revival and redesign of the Mini Kelly 20.
The Hermès Mini Kelly 20
The Mini Kelly 20 has a fascinating history that traces back to 1957, when the first model was introduced with a mid-length shoulder strap. The bracelet-style top-handle, a key feature that differentiates it from other Kelly bags, was not introduced until 1980. By 1990, Hermès had released the Mini Kelly 20 in Retourne construction, an exceedingly rare version sought after by collectors today.
Hermès discontinued the Mini Kelly 20 in 2009, with the last known examples dating from 2004 onward being especially rare. However, just seven years after its discontinuation, Hermès reintroduced the bag as the Mini Kelly 20 II. This updated version featured a more compact structure, with a reduced top-handle and shallower depth. Like all Mini Kelly variations, these bags never included locks, keys, or clochettes, though they have always been available with shoulder straps. Unlike larger Kelly models, it is rare to find vintage Mini Kelly 20 bags with double-loop hardware, as this feature was not added to the design until the 2000s.
The Hermès Kelly 15
In addition to the Mini Kelly 20, Hermès has also produced two exclusive runs of the ultra-rare 15cm Micro Kelly bags. The first production took place from 1984 to 1985, followed by a second release between 1991 and 1992. These petite Kelly bags were primarily crafted from Courchevel, Box, Lizard, and Crocodile leathers and featured an extra-thin strap with miniaturized hardware.
In 2011, Hermès revived the 15cm Micro Kelly as part of Christophe Lemaire’s Candy Collection. Unlike earlier versions, this iteration was primarily made in Swift or Epsom leather, though some were also crafted from Lizard skin. The Candy Collection was significant not only for the reintroduction of the Micro Kelly but also for including the only 15cm Hermès Birkin bags ever produced.
The Hermès Mini Kelly has evolved significantly since its inception, yet it has always remained a symbol of sophistication and exclusivity. From its early days in 1957 to its modern reintroduction as the Mini Kelly 20 II, this small yet powerful accessory has captured the hearts of collectors and fashion enthusiasts alike. Its rare variations, meticulous craftsmanship, and undeniable prestige make it one of the most coveted handbags in the world. Whether as a vintage treasure or a newly released design, the Mini Kelly continues to be a timeless investment in luxury fashion.
Advantages to Collecting Hermès Kelly Bags on the Secondary Market
1. Access
Sotheby's is able to provide access to a curated selection of Hermès Kelly bags from its long established global network of sellers. Sotheby's is a leading global marketplace that offers pristine Kelly bags in the most popular colors, materials and sizes along with rare Himalayan and Limited Edition Kelly bags. Our handbag specialists are always sourcing the most desirable Hermès Kelly bags from collectors around the world. Sotheby's also sells incredible private collections that include one of a kind HSS Kelly bags.
2. Flexibility
Sotheby's provides multiple ways to purchase Kelly bags including auction, online and in person in New York, Hong Kong, Zurich, Paris and London. Sotheby's also offers a concierge service if you need assistance sourcing a specific Hermès Kelly bag that isn't available at auction or online.
3. Value
While Kelly bags in pristine condition sell at a premium to retail, Sotheby's has bags for purchase at auction and marketplace in a range of the most desirable colors and materials. Secondary marketplaces like Sotheby's allow a buyer to purchase a store fresh pristine Kelly bag with the original box and all plastic still on the hardware without waiting for a call from an Hermès sales associate. While it is possible to purchase a Kelly bag at an Hermès boutique, it is hard to predict how long it will take. Additionally if you don't have an existing relationship at the store, it is even harder to pick the exact bag including size, color and hardware. In many cases you may be offered a Kelly bag that may not be your desired color or size. Buyers also come to Sotheby's since they want to purchase more than two Kelly bags in a year. While we encourage you to build a relationship with an Hermès Sales Associate, Sotheby's can save you time when purchasing a Kelly bag.
4. Discovery
One of the best parts of a global luxury marketplace is discovering unique one of a kind Kelly bags or rare limited edition Kelly bags that are no longer available at Hermès. Sotheby's curated selection changes regularly and each auction has a unique selection of Kelly bags including the popular Mini Kelly bag. You are likely to discover something new to you from Hermès.
Buy and Sell an Hermès Kelly Bag at Sotheby's
Sotheby's always has a curated selection of Hermès Kelly bags available for immediate shipping. Sotheby's also sells Hermès Kelly bags at auction in New York, Paris, Zurich and Hong Kong. Expect to find rare and collectible Kelly bags including the popular Kelly doll in pristine and excellent condition. Sotheby's sells Kelly bags in the newest colors and classic neutrals in leather and exotic materials along with collectible Limited Edition Kelly bags. Prices for Kelly bags in pristine condition generally start around $20,000 and can exceed $100,000 for Himalaya and Diamond Mini Kelly bags.
- Browse Hermès Kelly bags available for immediate delivery.
- Explore upcoming handbag auctions in New York, London, Switzerland, Paris, and Hong Kong.
- Speak to a Salon Associate in New York, Zurich, London, Paris, or Hong Kong to schedule an appointment.
- Contact Handbag Specialist about selling an Hermès Kelly bag or submit your item here for valuation.
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