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Dissecting the Genius of John Galliano
Everything you need to know about cult fashion designer John Galliano.
J ohn Galliano is celebrated as one of the original couturiers, a visionary whose theatrical and dramatic creations have redefined the boundaries of fashion. Renowned for his ability to craft designs of the highest art form, Galliano's collections go beyond the realms of just clothing; they are immersive experiences that evoke emotion and tell stories. His journey, marked by both triumph and controversy, showcases the extraordinary milestones that define his legacy.
Born in Gibraltar and raised in London, Galliano's childhood was heavily influenced by his strict Catholic upbringing and strenuous family dynamics. Graduating from Central Saint Martins in 1984, he presented a graduate collection inspired by post-Revolutionary France titled Les Incroyables that would be immortalised in fashion history. The collection's brilliance caught the attention of London's high-end boutique, Browns, which purchased the entire line for resale despite the fact that Galliano was still a student. One of the first buyers was the notable singer Diana Ross. In 1987, Galliano won his first ever Best Designer of the Year award (he would go on to win three more).
John Galliano's Rising Stardom
Soon after Les Incroyables, Galliano set up his own label, enjoying immense success in these early years but it was not without looming financial pressures. By the early 1990s, with support from industry stalwarts like Anna Wintour and André Leon Talley, Galliano was finally able to secure his financial footing for future endeavours. His 1994 collection, Princess Lucretia, was heralded as a pivotal moment in fashion, with The New Yorker reporting that Diane von Furstenberg labelled it “a watershed moment in modern fashion history.” It was here that Galliano repopularised the bias-cut slip dress, drawing inspiration from its original pioneer, the French fashion designer Madeleine Vionnet.
By 1995, Galliano made history as the first British designer to head a French haute couture house when he took the helm at Givenchy. His tenure there was short but impactful, marked by his typical bold experimentation and a commitment to theatrical precision – not a surprise given Galliano’s former job working at the National Theatre in London. This momentum continued when he joined Dior just over 12 months later in 1996.
Galliano was assigned to revive Dior and steer them away from the conservative direction the fashion house was gearing towards, and instead lead Dior into a new frontier of bold glamour and the theatrics that Galliano was known for. He swiftly established his distinctive design language at Dior, reinterpreting classic shapes with a fresh perspective. Galliano’s work was characterised by the bold and the glamorous, featuring sensual bias-cuts, texture and careful embellishments. Each piece was infused with a captivating theatricality in its presentation, making every collection a visual spectacle.
One such collection was Galliano’s Autumn/Winter 1997 Haute Couture collection for Dior, inspired by the legendary Dutch courtesan, dancer and spy Mata Hari. Collaborating with renowned jewellery creator Goossens, Galliano crafted dresses that merged fashion with fine jewellery, featuring exquisite French guipure lace intricately cut and transformed into wearable art. Designs showcased floral motifs dipped in metal, meticulously reassembled with delicate chain links, and adorned with rhinestones and topaz stones for dazzling effect. The Mata Hari collection remains a defining moment in Galliano's career, exemplifying his mastery of couture and his unique ability to blend art with fashion.
Galliano’s influence and stardom skyrocketed in the 2000s. The Saddle Bag he designed in 1999 instantly became an It-girl must-have, particularly after appearing in the crook of Sarah Jessica Parker’s arm in Sex and the City.
The Autumn/Winter 2000 collection further emphasised Galliano’s influence. Famously dubbed the "Newspaper Collection”, this presentation featured garments made from fabric printed to resemble newspaper clippings, merging fashion with contemporary social commentary. The collection was a striking visual statement that challenged traditional notions of couture while engaging with societal issues. The pieces themselves were both wearable and thought-provoking, incorporating headlines and images that commented on news and culture, effectively turning the runway into a platform for artistic expression. Designs from this collection are some of the most covetable archival pieces that stylists and personal shoppers scour the web for today.
Another exemplary Galliano collection was Autumn/Winter 2004, which drew inspiration from the romanticism of the Victorian era. This collection was characterised by classic Galliano for Dior house codes – dramatic silhouettes, rich fabrics, and intricate detailing. Notable pieces included gowns with voluminous skirts, corseted bodices, and lavish embellishments that evoked a sense of nostalgia while remaining strikingly modern. Galliano’s theatrical presentation style and use of layering and texture created a rich visual tapestry of artistry and craftsmanship.
An Unprecedented Fall From Grace
Galliano's journey was not without its challenges. In 2011, two years after being awarded the prestigious French Legion of Honour, his career faced a dramatic downward plunge. The designer was convicted in French court for his anti-Semitic and anti-Asian remarks in multiple drunken outbursts at Parisian pubs. This led to his departure from Dior and a period of personal struggle dealing with alcoholism and drug use. Despite all the controversy and backlash, Galliano still famously designed Kate Moss’ wedding dress that same year.
After seeking rehabilitation, Galliano slowly but surely made his return to the fashion scene in 2013, following an invitation from Oscar de la Renta for a temporary residency. His true resurgence came in 2014 when he was appointed creative director of Maison Martin Margiela (rebranded Maison Margiela as of 2015), where he is credited with invigorating the brand's identity with daring new designs that continued to push the boundaries of fashion.
A Fashion Phoenix Entering a New Era
Since taking the helm as creative director at Maison Margiela in 2014, Galliano has experienced a remarkable revival. His recent Spring/Summer 2024 couture show for the brand was an electrifying reminder of Galliano’s genius and creativity. His affinity for theatrics and bold glamour was on full display, from the exuberant designs to the glossy, porcelain-like skin as crafted by makeup artist Pat McGrath. The show itself was a spectacle of the highest affair, reminiscent of his earlier work but infused with a fresh perspective that shone a spotlight on his creative evolution.
Galliano's influence has extended beyond the runway, dressing high-profile celebrities for major events. Kim Kardashian, Bad Bunny and Zendaya all wore custom Margiela by John Galliano at the most recent Met Gala. Kardashian donned a chain-mail floral dress over a corseted top and a Margiela thong. The look was complete with a controversial boiled knit cardigan thrown atop. Bad Bunny’s ensemble nodded to drama – he sported a bold navy suit with exposed white stitching, an oversized headpiece and angular sunglasses. Meanwhile, Zendaya paid homage to Galliano’s legacy in two different looks, one a stunning remake of an archival Dior look from Galliano’s 1999 collection.
In this new era, Galliano has not only revitalised his career but has also redefined the boundaries of couture, proving that his visionary approach remains relevant and inspiring. As he continues to captivate audiences and influence a new generation of fashion enthusiasts, it’s clear that Galliano's legacy is far from over; it is being reborn in spectacular fashion.
John Galliano at Sotheby's
Ready to start? Catch up on some of the incredible pieces Sotheby’s has sold in the past below and discover coveted creations in Fashion Icons closing 17 December 2024.
