The Return of Larger Hermès Birkin Bags
Fashion trends are cyclical, and the pendulum is once again swinging in favor of larger handbags. In the world of Hermès, this means a resurgence of interest in the iconic Birkin 35 and even the more substantial Birkin 40. Before 2013, the Birkin 35 reigned supreme, considered the ideal size for women seeking both luxury and functionality. However, as preferences shifted towards smaller bags, the Birkin 25 and Mini Kelly 20 took center stage, skyrocketing in value and becoming the most sought-after sizes in the secondary market. While these compact bags remain highly desirable, the tides are changing. Larger Birkin bags are steadily reclaiming their status, though their auction prices remain significantly lower than their smaller counterparts. For collectors and enthusiasts, this presents a compelling opportunity to acquire these stunning pieces at more accessible prices before their inevitable rise.
A Brief History of the Birkin 35
The Birkin bag itself was born from a chance encounter in 1984 between actress Jane Birkin and Hermès executive Jean-Louis Dumas. The Birkin 35, in particular, quickly became a staple for women who valued elegance without compromising on practicality. Designed to be spacious enough for daily essentials while maintaining Hermès' signature craftsmanship, the Birkin 35 became synonymous with status and sophistication. Over the decades, its popularity fluctuated with shifting fashion trends, but its place in the pantheon of luxury accessories has remained unchallenged.
Crocodile Birkin 35 Bags
During the height of the Birkin 35’s dominance, one of the most coveted versions was the Shiny Porosus Crocodile Birkin. This opulent iteration became the ultimate status symbol, combining the rich texture of crocodile scales with Hermès' impeccable dyeing techniques. Colors that already looked exquisite on leather became even more vibrant and mesmerizing on crocodile, thanks to the meticulous buffing process using a flat agate stone. The Vert Emerald Crocodile Birkin 35 with gold hardware is widely regarded as one of the most stunning versions ever created. Despite their prestige, these Hermès bags have seen a consistent decline in auction values over the past decade, often selling for nearly half of their current retail price, which exceeds $60,000. However, with the renewed interest in larger bags, this may well be a golden era for acquiring Crocodile Birkin 35 bags at remarkable prices.
Birkin 40 Bags
The Hermès Birkin 40 has often been considered the "Man's Birkin" due to its grand proportions, but its appeal extends far beyond gender. Many women appreciate the Birkin 40 for its bold presence, making it an excellent option for a weekend getaway or an everyday work tote. Despite its higher retail price—reportedly around $13,000—the Birkin 40 has historically been valued lower than the Birkin 35 in the resale market. However, this dynamic has been shifting in recent years, with its value steadily climbing. Rarer in the secondary market than its smaller counterparts, the Birkin 40 is a prize for collectors who recognize both its practicality and aesthetic appeal. Those who find one that aligns with their style are often compelled to seize the opportunity before prices escalate further.
JPG Shoulder Birkin Bags
One of the most distinctive variations of the Birkin is the Hermès JPG Shoulder Birkin, designed by Jean-Paul Gaultier during his tenure as the brand's Creative Director. Introduced in 2004, the JPG Birkin measures 42cm across and features exaggerated handles, giving it the appearance of a traditional Birkin sliced in half. Primarily crafted in Clemence leather, rarer versions exist in Ostrich and Crocodile. In 2010, Hermès introduced the JPG Birkin II, which included interior zip and slip pockets, a slimmer profile, and HAC-style square-spindle hardware. By the time the line was discontinued in 2014, these leather JPG Birkins retailed for nearly $11,000, making them one of the more expensive leather Birkin models at the time. Despite this, their resale value has traditionally hovered around half that price. However, with growing interest in larger bags, JPG Birkins are seeing an uptick in demand, and the era of finding them for under $7,000 may soon come to an end.
The resurgence of larger Birkin bags signals an exciting shift in the luxury handbag market. While small bags like the Birkin 25 and Mini Kelly 20 continue to command staggering prices, the relative affordability of Birkin 35, Birkin 40, and JPG Shoulder Birkin bags presents a rare window of opportunity for collectors and fashion enthusiasts alike. As demand for spacious, statement-making handbags grows, the value of these once-overlooked sizes is poised to rise. Whether for their timeless elegance, practicality, or sheer presence, larger Birkins are making their way back into the spotlight—and now may be the perfect time to add one to your collection.
Advantages to Buying Hermès Birkin on the Secondary Market
1. Access
Sotheby's is able to provide access to a curated selection of Birkin bags from its long established global network of sellers. Sotheby's is a leading global marketplace that offers pristine Birkin bags in the most popular colors, materials and sizes along with rare Himalayan and Limited Edition Birkin bags. Our handbag specialists are always sourcing the more desirable Birkin bags from collectors around the world. Sotheby's also sells incredible private collections that include one of a kind Hermès Birkin bags.
2. Flexibility
Sotheby's provides multiple ways to purchase Birkin bags including auction, online, and in person in New York, Hong Kong, Zurich, Paris and London. Sotheby's also offers a concierge service if you need assistance sourcing a specific Birkin bag that isn't available at auction or online.
3. Value
While Birkin bags in pristine condition sell at a premium to retail, Sotheby's has bags for purchase at auction and marketplace in a range of the most desirable colors and materials. Secondary marketplaces like Sotheby's allow a buyer to purchase a store fresh pristine Birkin bag with the original box and all plastic still on the hardware without waiting for a call from an Hermès sales associate. While it is possible to purchase a Birkin Bag at an Hermès boutique, it is hard to predict how long it will take. Additionally if you don't have an existing relationship at the store, it is even harder to pick the exact bag including size, color and hardware. In many cases you may be offered a Birkin that may not be your desired color or size. Buyers also come to Sotheby's since they want to purchase more than two Birkin bags in a year. While we encourage you to build a relationship with an Hermès Sales Associate, Sotheby's can save you time when purchasing a Birkin.
4. Discovery
One of the best parts of a global luxury marketplace is discovering unique one of a kind Birkins or rare limited edition Birkin bags that are no longer available at Hermès. Sotheby's curated selection changes regularly and each auction has a unique selection of Birkin bags. You are likely to discover something new to you from Hermès.
Buy and Sell Hermès Birkin Bags at Sotheby's
Sotheby's always has a curated selection of the top Hermès Birkin bags available for immediate shipping. Sotheby's also sells Hermès bags at auction in New York, Paris, Zurich and Hong Kong. Expect to find rare and collectible Birkin and Kelly bags in every sale in addition to other popular Hermès bags in pristine condition in the newest colors and classic neutrals. Sotheby's handbag sales include rare and limited edition Hermès bags in exotic materials, custom color combinations and even diamond hardware.
Prices for Hermès bags range from $3,000 to $5,000 at the low end for the Herbag, Garden Party and Evelyne TPM. Prices for the most sought after Birkin and Kelly bags start at around $20,000 and can exceed $100,000 for the rarest and most desirable limited edition Birkin or Kelly bags.
- Explore upcoming handbag auctions in New York, London, Switzerland, Paris, and Hong Kong.
- Speak to a Salon Associate in New York, Zurich, London, Paris, or Hong Kong to schedule an appointment.
- Contact a Handbag Specialist about selling an Hermès bag or submit your item here for valuation.
Trust our worldwide network of leading handbag specialists from a globally renowned auction house established in 1744.