![](data:image/svg+xml;utf8,<svg xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" version="1.1" height="2396px" width="2953px"></svg>)
A ndrew Grima's daring imaginative and charismatic designs made him a revolutionary of 1960s British jewelry. Entirely self-taught, Roman-born Grima studied mechanical engineering in London before joining the Royal Engineers during World War II. After the war, Grima begin work in the accounts division of his father-in-law’s jewelry firm in London before moving into the design department.
Purely design driven, Grima never let technicalities limit his imagination, creating cutting edge designs using colourful and bold gemstones set in golden irregular and artistic structures. Typically, his pieces were crafted around rare gems or made for one-off bespoke creations. Meaning Grima’s designs are both unique and limited.
As his business flourished, Grima played a key role in the creative scene in 'Swinging London'. In his book on Grima, William Grant explained: "Andrew Grima was friends with Graham Sutherland, John Piper, Elisabeth Frink and Barbara Hepworth. He collected their art and they bought his jewels: he can truly be considered in the context of British modernism." Grima's Jewels have often been referred to as 'sculptures', often featuring unusual gemstones, angular forms and textured gold.
These pieces captured the spirit of the era, reflecting the cultural shifts and artistic experimentation happening in London during the 1960s. He was at home in the company of artists, and many considered him to be an artist himself. Edgy and exciting in his approach (he was said to have always carried a sketchbook with him and could be found drawing designs on napkins in the fashionable restaurants of 1960s London), Grima gathered a cult following of celebrity.
He became the go-to society jeweller to the elite. Prince Philip gifted Queen Elizabeth a ruby and diamond brooch that she was photographed wearing at the Epsom Derby in 2009, while Princess Margaret, Jackie Kennedy Onassis, Ursula Andress and Estée Lauder were among his devoted clients. In 2012, Estée Lauder’s White Gold and Diamond Pendant-Brooch sold for double its estimate in the Sotheby's New York Magnificent Jewels sale.
Today, Grima is recognised as one of the great modernist jewelry designers of the 20th century. His creations often top auction charts and sell over their estimates. Added to this, his work is included in the collection of the Victoria & Albert Museum, while fashion designers Marc Jacobs and Miuccia Prada are collectors. From the early days gracing the pages of Vogue with pieces worn by Bond Girls, Jean Shrimpton and Sharon Tate, to the present day, where Grima counts stars of the stage and screen among his fans. Contemporary fans including Gigi Hadid, Hailey Bieber and Taylor Swift reinforce the enduring appeal of Grima for those wanting to wear statement jewels with a very modern, elegant twist.
