A Luxury Buyer's Guide to Marquise Diamonds

Learn everything you need to know about buying marquise diamonds.

History of Marquise Diamond

The marquise cut diamond is said to have been commissioned by King Louis XV of France in the mid-18th century. He requested a diamond shape that resembled the lips of his mistress, the Marquise de Pompadour. This origin story links the marquise cut to French royalty and romance, contributing to its elegant and sophisticated appeal.

During the late 18th and early 19th centuries, the marquise cut gained popularity among European nobility and aristocracy. Its elongated shape was seen as a symbol of status and elegance. The cut was also known as the "navette" cut, which means "little boat" in French, reflecting its boat-like shape.

The marquise cut experienced a resurgence in popularity during the Art Deco period of the 1920s and 1930s. The geometric and bold design elements of the Art Deco movement complemented the elongated shape of the marquise cut, making it a favored choice for engagement rings and other fine jewelry.

Popularity of Marquise Diamond Ring

Marquise diamonds experienced a surge in popularity during the 1970s and 1980s. This period saw a distinct preference for unique and bold styles in engagement rings, and the elongated, dramatic shape of the marquise cut fit well with the fashion trends of those decades. Today the marquise cut is popular with buyers looking for a more vintage or unique diamond for a more personalized ring. Its unique shape can create the illusion of greater carat weight, making the diamond appear larger than its actual size. The marquise cut also has the effect of elongating the finger, adding to its aesthetic appeal.

One of the most famous marquise diamonds rings was given to Jackie Kennedy Onassis by Aristotle Onassis in 1968. The Lesotho III, one of eighteen gems cut from a 601-carat rough diamond named the Lesotho. It was discovered in 1967 in Lesotho in South Africa. The rough was originally purchased by Harry Winston. It was exhibited at the Smithsonian Institute in Washington, D.C and the Museum of Natural History in New York before being cut into 18 gems. The Lesotho III is a marquise diamond, VS2 and L color and 40.42 carats. Sotheby's sold the ring in 1996 for $2.59 million as part of her estate.

The 4 Cs: Carat, Clarity, Color, and Cut

The marquise cut typically has 58 facets, similar to the round brilliant cut, which maximizes its brilliance and fire. The cut’s elongated shape and pointed ends require precise symmetry and proportions to ensure optimal light performance and avoid a "bow-tie" effect, a dark area that can appear across the center of the diamond.

Carat: As a luxury seller of diamonds, Sotheby's generally carries marquise diamonds that are 3 carats and larger. Sotheby's sells some smaller marquise diamonds but these are either colored diamonds or very high quality diamonds that are classified as colorless and in the flawless/nternally flawless clarity grade.
Clarity: We recommend VS clarity or better for a round cut diamond. Look for no significant inclusions visible to the naked eye, especially near the points and the table facet.
Color: We recommend H color or better for marquise diamonds 3 carats and larger.
Cut: The cut of a marquise diamond significantly impacts its brilliance and the overall appearance of the diamond. A well-cut marquise diamond will have a symmetrical shape, well-aligned facets, and a good length-to-width ratio (typically between 1.75:1 and 2.25:1)

Type I and Type II Diamonds

About 95% of diamonds are Type Ia and contain trace amount of nitrogen. Most engagement rings and other diamond jewelry are made from Type Ia diamonds. Type Ib diamonds are often associated with intense canary yellow diamonds and are often used for jewelry. Type II diamonds are much rarer than Type I diamonds and have fewer inclusions and higher clarity than the more common Type I diamonds.

Type IIa diamonds are the purest form of diamonds with no measurable nitrogen or boron impurities. These diamonds are often colorless but can also be found in rare colors like pink, brown or blue. These are extremely rare and comprise less and 2% of all mined diamonds. These diamonds are formed under high-pressure and high-temperature conditions which can give the diamond higher clarity and brilliance. Sotheby's sold a Type IIa Harry Winston marquise diamond weighing 21.03 carats for just over $2 million in 2023.

Type IIb diamonds contain boron which give them blue or grayish-blue color. Unlike other diamonds, Type IIb are semiconductors and can conduct electricity and are even rarer than Type IIa diamonds. The Hope Diamond is an example of a famous Type IIb diamond.

Fancy Colored Marquise Diamond Ring

The marquise diamond is not typically the most preferred choice for colored diamonds, but it does have certain advantages and is used in some cases. Advantages include the elongated shape can make the diamond appear larger than the carat weight. The unique shape can also compliment the appearance of colored diamonds. The preferred shapes for colored diamonds are generally round, cushion, and radiant cuts since they retain and enhance the stone's color more effectively. These cuts are designed to maximize the diamond's color and brilliance, which is particularly important for showcasing fancy colored diamonds. Marquise diamond can result in higher material wastage compared to other cuts. Given the high value and rarity of colored diamonds, preserving as much of the rough stone as possible is often a priority, making cuts like cushion or radiant more favorable. Marquise diamonds are also prone to the "bow-tie" effect, a dark area that can appear across the center of the diamond due to light leakage. This can be more noticeable in colored diamonds and may detract from the overall appearance.

Celebrity Marquise Diamond Rings

In addition to Jackie Kennedy Onassis, other celebrities have also received marquise diamond rings. Victoria Beckham's original engagement ring from David Beckham in 1998 was a 3 carat marquise cut diamond mounted on a yellow gold band. Catherine Zeta Jones engagement ring from Michael Douglas in 1999 featured a 10 carat marquise diamond surrounded by a halo of 28 diamonds. Portia de Rossi received a 3 carat marquise diamond from Ellen De Generes in 2008. Ashlee Simpson's engagement ring features a 5 carat marquise diamond surrounded by rubies and diamonds.

Buying a Marquise Diamond at Sotheby's

Sotheby's sells natural marquise diamond rings on its marketplace, available for immediate shipping. Prices start at around $20,000 for a 3 carat marquise diamond that is VS clarity and H color. This price can vary significantly depending on the cut, fluorescence, polish, brand and provenance. Along with high quality unsigned diamond rings VS clarity and H color or better, Sotheby's also sells cushion cut diamond rings from top luxury brands including Harry Winston, Tiffany, Cartier and more. Sotheby's also sells rare and impressive marquise diamond rings at auctions in New York, London, Switzerland, Paris and Hong Kong. You can also contact a Client Advisor in New York or Bucherer in Zurich to learn more about Sotheby's diamond engagement rings. In addition to the available marquise diamond rings listed on marketplace or available at auction, Sotheby's is also able to source a marquise diamond ring from its global supplier network. Browse our curated selection online and reach out to a Salon associate to schedule a viewing.