A Look Into The World of Van Cleef & Arpels High Jewelry
Van Cleef and Arpels High Jewelry

A Look Into The World of Van Cleef & Arpels High Jewelry

Detailed history and buying guide to Van Cleef & Arpels High Jewelry
Detailed history and buying guide to Van Cleef & Arpels High Jewelry

History of High Jewelry At Van Cleef & Arpels

Van Cleef & Arpels is one of the most renowned names in High Jewelry, and it is celebrated for its exquisite craftsmanship, timeless designs, and innovation. Established in 1906, the iconic jewelry maison is known for creating breathtaking pieces that blend artistry with nature-inspired elegance. Van Cleef & Arpels is known for using the finest gemstones, intricate techniques, and imaginative designs that push the boundaries of traditional jewelry-making. They include their popular motifs like flowers, butterflies, and whimsical fairies are often featured in their collections, adding to their timeless appeal. Each Van Cleef & Arpels High Jewelry creation is a true masterpiece, requiring hundreds of hours of labor from master artisans. The Maison combines traditional craftsmanship with avant-garde creativity to produce rare and unique pieces that continue to enchant collectors and admirers alike.

Within the contemporary Van Cleef & Arpels high jewelry world they have many different signature collections including The Classic High Jewelry, Snowflake Collection, Flowerlace Collection, Folie des Prés™, and many other iconic collections. The Maison continually strives to create more pieces to cater to the growing community of high jewelry enthusiasts. Within Sotheby’s marketplace and auctions, many of these iconic contemporary creations and vintage creations have come into the secondary market. When these magnificent creations come into the secondary market, they often sell quickly and go for high prices because of the collector demand for Van Cleef & Arpels High Jewelry.

Van Cleef & Arpels Mystery Set Ruby and Diamond Necklace

Van Cleef & Arpels Mystery Set

One of the most iconic collections within Van Cleef High Jewelry is the Mystery Set. The Van Cleef Mystery Set was patented in 1933 and introduced a new way of setting precious stones that was designed to preserve their beauty. The stones are meticulously cut and individually inserted into gold rails. Van Cleef uses this setting for diamonds, rubies and also sapphires and emeralds. The gems appear to float freely in place, creating a smooth, uninterrupted surface of color and brilliance. The Mystery Set is incredibly difficult to execute, requiring over 300 hours of painstaking work to perfect a single piece. A very special ruby and diamond Van Cleef Mystery Set necklace sold for $670,000 in 2023. The diamonds, estimated to weigh a total of approximately 60.00 to 70.00 carats, are approximately F-G color, and VVS-VS clarity. This extraordinary piece exemplifies the allure, craftsmanship, and value of the Van Cleef Mystery Set. Mystery Set pieces are found in Van Cleef & Arpels’ most iconic collections, such as their Ludo bracelets, Peony brooches, and Floral motifs, making these pieces highly coveted by collectors and connoisseurs of fine jewelry.

Van Cleef & Arpels High Jewelry Gold and Diamond 'Zip' Necklace-Bracelet Combination and Pair of Earclips

Van Cleef & Arpels Zip Collection

The Van Cleef & Arpels Zip Collection is one of the most iconic and innovative creations in the history of jewelry design. Introduced in the 1950s, the Van Cleef Zip Necklace was inspired by a suggestion from the Duchess of Windsor, Wallis Simpson, who was fascinated by zippers, a then-modern invention. Van Cleef & Arpels turned this everyday object into a stunning piece of wearable art, blending technical mastery with luxurious design. One of the most interesting aspects of many pieces in the Van Cleef Zip Collection is the convertible design features. The Zip necklace can be worn as either a long necklace or zip-up as a bracelet. This practical versatility is rare in the high jewelry world. It is both a symbol of Maison’s ingenuity and creativity. By taking an everyday item and elevating it into the world of high jewelry, Van Cleef & Arpels creates a truly magical collection. A Van Cleef Zip necklace sold for $400,000 in 2023. The creation is technically both a necklace and a bracelet. The Van Cleef Zip necklace is set with brilliant-cut diamonds in gold and platinum and mounted in yellow gold. The diamonds on this Van Cleef necklace are estimated to weigh a total of approximately 11.00 - 13.00 carats, on average G-H color, VVS-VS clarity.

Van Cleef & Arpels High Jewelry Diamond clip, 'Ludo-Hexagone'

Van Cleef & Arpels Ludo

The Ludo bracelet is another one of Van Cleef & Arpels' iconic jewelry creations, first introduced in 1934. Named after the nickname of Louis Arpels, one of the Maison's co-founders, the Ludo bracelet reflects the elegance and bold design of the Art Deco period. It is characterized by its unique and innovative construction, which resembles a flexible mesh belt adorned with a gemstone-encrusted buckle. The mesh displays the craftsmanship signature to the Maisons, each bracelet is crafted to resemble flexible mesh that drapes gracefully on the wrist. The buckle is the focal point to the design The buckle typically has diamonds, rubies, sapphires, emeralds and other precious gemstones. Each gemstone is carefully chosen for its quality and brilliance. Over the years, Van Cleef & Arpels high jewelry teams have created numerous iterations of the iconic Ludo Bracelet. When vintage Ludo bracelets come to Sotheby’s they have exceeded their estimate and sold as top lots. In 2021 this Gold, Diamond and Enamel 'Ludo Hexagone' Bracelet sold for $95k approximately 20k above its estimated value. The Ludo bracelet remains an enduring symbol of Van Cleef & Arpels' creativity and mastery in jewelry design, balancing innovation with timeless beauty.

Van Cleef & Arpels Diamond Tie Necklace

Collecting Van Cleef & Arpels High Jewelry At Sotheby's

High Jewelry from Van Cleef & Arpels is some of the most sought-after creations by collectors in the secondary market. High jewelry is extremely valuable in the secondary market for the materials used to its craftsmanship, rarity, and historical significance. High jewelry is known for its meticulous craftsmanship and attention to detail. The pieces are typically handmade by highly skilled artisans who spend countless hours working on every aspect of the jewelry. High jewelry pieces are typically produced in very limited quantities, or even as one-of-a-kind creations. This exclusivity makes them highly desirable, as collectors and investors are always drawn to rare items that few others possess. High jewelry is also seen as an investment. Rare and unique pieces tend to appreciate in value over time, especially when the supply of certain gemstones decreases, or if the jewelry has provenance from royal or celebrity ownership. Many collectors buy high jewelry not just for its beauty but also as a financial investment that can increase in value, much like fine art or rare vintage cars. One of the most rare and exclusive Van Cleef & Arpels creations sold at Sotheby’s in June of 2024. The Van Cleef and Arpels Diamond Tie Necklace sold for $3.6 million. The Van Cleef diamond Tie necklace is from 1929 and is composed of graduated links set with variously cut diamonds that can rotate for variety of wear. This vintage piece exemplifies the value, admiration and collectibility of exceptional Van Cleef & Arpels High Jewelry creations.

Van Cleef & Arpels Type IIa High Jewelry Diamond Ring

Buying Van Cleef & Arpels High Jewelry At Sotheby's

Sotheby's often has impressive Van Cleef & Arpels High Jewelry creations available at auction. Sotheby's also has a curated selection of Van Cleef & Arpels High Jewelry available for immediate purchase on marketplace. If you would like to view a Van Cleef & Arpels High Jewelry creation, a salon specialist would be happy to assist. Sotheby's is also able to source Van Cleef & Arpels High Jewelry from its global supplier network.

  • Explore upcoming jewelry at auctions in New York, London, Switzerland, Paris, and Hong Kong.
  • Speak to a Salon Associate in New York, Zurich or Hong Kong to schedule an appointment
  • Speak to a Jewelry Specialist about selling a Van Cleef & Arpels High Jewelry

Trust our worldwide network of leading jewelry specialists from a globally renowned auction house with a 280-year history.

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