A Happy Place: Abdulrahman Al Zayani’s Curated Jewellery Exhibition

T his summer’s jewellery exhibition that Abdulrahman Al Zayani curates for Sotheby’s would have made a great setting for an Orientalist painting. It’s a time travel to a bygone era, one that is, in its curator’s own words, “mystical, sexy and fantastical – a fantasy world – and one that is part of our history.” The way in which Al Zayani approaches an exhibition is akin to that of an artist. In the same way that a painter considers colour, composition and concept, so too does the Bahraini-born founder of A2Z, a luxury advisory focused on fine art and jewellery established in 2018.

Sotheby’s London

A2Z Advisory Jewellery at Sotheby’s

12–22 August 2024

Replete with exotic plants, mashrabiyyas, paintings from Sotheby’s own Islamic Art Department and Ottoman jars, the space exudes sensuality and luxury all at once. The final flourish is the punctuation of over 120 jewellery pieces gathered by Al Zayani from young and upcoming designers through to established ones from across the world. “That is the success of A2Z – diversity,” he says. Washed over with reds and oranges, the decked room in one of the Sotheby’s galleries on Bond Street offers an intimate boutique vibe. In short, it’s a trip – an otherworldly, dreamy destination.

Al Zayani has had a penchant for jewellery for as long as he can remember, and began collecting at 21. It’s more of an eye for beauty – he counts a beaded bracelet bought off the streets of Bangkok among his favourite accessories alongside pieces by JAR, Jewels by Sabba, Hemmerle, Nikos Koulis and others – many of which feature in this show. Alongside a collection of visual art from the Arab world amassed over two decades and which was sold by Sotheby’s last year, Al Zayani has been collecting jewellery and helps others around the world acquire and build collections.

Within the grouping he puts together for Sotheby’s, however, are knee-weakening pieces, among them a 1930s three-dimensional diamond bracelet by Van Cleef & Arpels. “It’s so difficult to come across these pieces because they’re often absorbed in different collections,” says Al Zayani. “Scouting is our job, and it certainly isn’t easy.” Another eye-catching piece is a diamond riviere necklace from William Goldberg in New York whose diamonds are cut in the Ashoka style – between cushion and emerald cuts to offer a light illusion, and which Goldberg owns the patent for. “If less was more, this is the piece I would go for,” says Al Zayani. Another Goldberg piece features Ashoka cuts – a pair of earrings that boast a cascading effect lending the pair “a special sparkle thanks to the Ashokas,” says Al Zayani. The cascade effect reappears in another pair of diamond earrings that come from a family jeweller in Italy, Gorgoglioni, which A2Z works with regularly. “These earrings are different because they cascade both in front of and behind the ear,” says Al Zayani. “When worn, there’s an interesting movement, and an illusion that the earrings are floating.”

Another favourite of his are the diamond ‘shell’ earrings that made their way into the selection because they recall summer and remind him of “how the waves sparkle when it’s golden hour”. Designed by up-and-coming Hong Kong-based Forms Jewellery, the earrings are made from titanium and are therefore lightweight.

Beyond a dazzling array of diamonds on show are other precious stones, as well as pearls that hold a special place in Al Zayani’s heart as they recall his native Bahrain’s great pearling legacy. “Pearls have a certain sense of elegance and sophistication,” he adds. “The pearl earrings set in titanium from Hong Kong-based Forms Jewellery hit the spot – they’re daring and light all at once.” A multi-coloured ring on show features green tsavorites and natural blue sapphires from India, and whose outline and colours reference Mogul design.

Pricewise, the collection is as diverse as its contents, making it accessible to different tastes and pockets. “For me, it’s about what the piece says to you,” says Al Zayani. “It’s not about value or price or name. It’s about beauty.”

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