5 Tips for Buying an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak at Auction

A udemars Piguet has been making watches since 1875, but it was in 1972 that they introduced what would come to be their most iconic and best-selling: the AP Royal Oak. Originally designed by arguably the best watch designer of all time, Gerald Genta, the Royal Oak was the first stainless steel luxury sportswatch featuring an integrated bracelet.

Over the years, the design has evolved and shifted, incorporating different complications and varying in size – and has retained a loyal band of followers like John Mayer and Steph Curry. Thinking of getting one for yourself? We talked to Vice President and watch specialist at Sotheby’s Vincent Brasesco to get his tips on buying an Audemars Piguet at auction.

Watches

The Complete Guide to Collecting Audemars Piguet

Have a Budget

The ref. 25686SP is a rare, limited-edition Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar dating to circa 1994.

You probably need to be willing to part with at least $15,000 in order to acquire an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak in good shape, but the numbers will simply grow from there. Brasesco emphasizes that setting a budget is the crucial first step in watch, and since Audemars Piguet makes the Royal Oak in a range of metals and embellishments – with automatic and quartz movements, and various sizes – setting a budget where you’re comfortable will allow you to survey the market and see what might be available to you.

Watches

The Complete Guide to Collecting the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak

Know Your Size

A rare ref. 26065OR pink-gold, skeletonized Royal Oak Grand Complication with minute-repeating perpetual calendar and split-seconds chronograph.

Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak has varied widely in size since it debuted in 1972. The first reference measured 39mm – big for the time – though it was also relatively thin at 7mm. It has gone as small as 33mm and as large as 41mm, a massive spectrum in the world of fine watches. And that’s to say nothing of the Royal Oak Offshore dive watch, which generally speaking has quite the bold wrist presence.

So pick your poison. When it comes to the Royal Oak, you can essentially find the best fit for you.

Consider Added Complications

Clean, crisp edges, like on this ref. 26510PT.OO.1220PT.01 extra-thin watch with a tourbillon, are the hallmark of an unpolished Royal Oak, which uses distinctive contrasting finishes to catch the light.

Unlike other watch brands, which tend to design timepiece families with a strict set of complications, Audemars Piguet has allowed the Royal Oak to spread its design wings and incorporate a whole host of bells and whistles. Whether you want a perpetual calendar, chronograph or day date, you’ll likely be able to find a Royal Oak Complication that will accommodate your needs. Prices for these complications will vary widely so keep the first tip in mind here.

Royal Oaks Come in Many Materials

Audemars Piguet crafts the Royal Oak from practically everything: white gold, yellow gold, rose gold, tantalum, stainless steel – the list goes on. Want your dial to be encrusted with diamonds? They do that. Have a preference for ceramic bracelets and skeletonised dials? You’re in luck. There’s a Royal Oak for everyone and every style.

Spring for an Original

The tropical fading of this ref. 5402ST Jumbo Non-Series Royal Oak from circa 1975 draws attention to the gorgeous texture of the tapisserie dial – but avoid ones that exhibit rust and flaking. — The tropical fading of this ref. 5402ST Jumbo Non-Series Royal Oak from circa 1975 draws attention to the gorgeous texture of the *tapisserie* dial – but avoid ones that exhibit rust and flaking.

Even if there’s a Royal Oak to suit any style, Brasesco thinks the one to own is the reference 5402. “It’s the first one,” he says, “the one that started it all.” The reference 5402 was designed by Gerard Genta in one night at the behest of Audemar Piguet’s then managing director, George Golay. The octagonal dial was inspired by a deep-sea diver’s helmet and distinguished itself from the trend of the circular sports of the day. The earliest references are slim and light, made from stainless steel and fairly simple when it comes to dial design. If you’re looking for something timeless and classic, this is about as good as it gets.

Watches

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Buying and Selling Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Watches at Sotheby’s

Sotheby’s is on hand to support with your next Audemars Piguet watch purchase or sale of an existing watch. We have an extensive offering of carefully curated Audemars Piguet watches, covering everything from luxury AP Royal Oak watches for regular use, through to the rarest and most complex Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Tourbillon watch examples.