5 Statement Watches You Should Add to Your Collection

5 Statement Watches You Should Add to Your Collection

Sotheby's Watches Specialist Tom Heap picks his five timepiece recommendations from the London Luxury Sales.
Sotheby's Watches Specialist Tom Heap picks his five timepiece recommendations from the London Luxury Sales.

T his May, Sotheby's is gearing up for its next major sale with the Fine Watches auction London. The sale is poised to showcase an array of remarkable timepieces for collectors and enthusiasts alike, with 109 lots set to meet the hammer on 29 March.

This set of highlights was chosen by Tom Heap, Sotheby’s London Watches Specialist, who brings his expertise and keen eye for fine timepieces with this diverse selection – including a rare Rolex Daytona ‘Alpine Cross’, a statement-making Audemars Piguet Royal Oak and a distinctive Cartier timepiece.


Rolex 6239, Paul Newman Daytona.

Leading Tom’s picks is the iconic Rolex 6239 Daytona. Paul Newman Daytonas, as affectionately known within the watch community, are characterised by their distinctive Art Deco-style dials, officially referred to as 'exotic dials.' These dials were rumoured to have appeared in as few as 1 in 20 manual-winding Daytona models from the 1960s to the 1980s. Initially, these watches did not garner much attention from the market but in the late 1980s, a group of Italian watch dealers and collectors coined the term 'Paul Newman' after the legendary American actor was photographed wearing his own reference 6239 on multiple occasions. Since then, the demand and market value for Paul Newman Daytonas have skyrocketed.

Audemars Piguet, Répétition Minutes, John Schaeffer.

Tom’s second choice is a remarkable creation from Audemars Piguet, standing as a testament to the brand's exceptional craftsmanship and represents a truly awe-inspiring marvel in the world of horology. In 1907, Audemars Piguet developed their first minute repeater wristwatch for John Schaeffer, an American industrialist. This groundbreaking prototype boasted a distinctive cushion-shaped case and showcased John Schaeffer's name as the numerals on the dial. Carrying forward the legacy of the cushion design and incorporating the minute repeater complication, the current iteration, the Répétition Minutes, represents an exceedingly rare horological masterpiece, whose rarity is further enhanced by a limited production run of just 10 pieces. Notably, the dial features a satellite hour display using three star wheels, which gracefully indicate the time along the minute track positioned at 12 o'clock. This ingenious mechanism involves the use of three transparent sapphire disks, known as star wheels, each adorned with four hour indicators.

Rolex Daytona, 6265 ‘Alpine Cross’.

Third in Tom’s highlights is the Daytona 'Alpine Research', Reference 6265 owned by Dainius Makauskas, 'The Mountain Tiger'. Dainius Makauskas was a Lithuanian mountaineer and rock climber. In 1967 he won a Bronze Medal at the USSR Championship and was later given the title of Champion of the Soviet Union following an ascent of Chatyn (4,368m) in the Caucus mountains in 1970. Offered by the Makauskas family, who confirmed the origins of the watch, the present watch with a case dating to 1971 was presumably one of the few Rolex Daytonas to adorn a wrist on the eastern side of the Iron Curtain. During a particularly treacherous descent in the Caucus mountains, Dainius had saved the life of a Swiss mountaineer, who upon his safe return to Switzerland in 1972, arranged for Dainius, at the time part of the USSR National mountaineering team, to climb the Swiss peaks including the Matterhorn accompanied by two KGB minders. It was on this trip where Dainius was gifted the present 6265 Daytona by the unnamed Swiss Mountaineer, featuring the symbol of the Foundation for Alpine Research, (pictured on his wrist during an ascent). In 1991 during a climb of the Himalayan peak of Daulagyris (8,167M) adverse cold weather conditions and an knee injury saw Dainius not return from the expedition after a successful summit.

Similar to the previously known Alpine signed pieces, this Daytona falls within the 2.7 million serial range, with the last three digits of the serial number engraved on the inside case back, which is also stamped with 6262. It is currently believed that these watches were produced to commemorate the 1952 expedition. However, it is possible that they were also commissioned for special members of the foundation throughout the production. This watch is intricately linked to the foundation that commissioned it and indeed it is accompanied by a decorative plate featuring the logo for Foundation for Alpine Research.

Until recently, only four examples of the Rolex Daytona reference 6265 were known to bear the emblem of a Swiss cross surrounded by a knotted rope, baffling collectors and scholars for many years. However, a Perezscope article in July 2021 linked this logo, engraved on the case backs of these models, to supply sacks used during the 1952 ascent of Mount Everest. These sacks were supplied by the Swiss Foundation of Alpine Research. This discovery represents a significant and fascinating development in understanding the story behind these exceptionally rare timepieces.

Audemars Piguet, Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Ref. 25636BA.

The second of the Audemars Piguet watches selected by Tom, is the universally recognised Royal Oak. Audemars Piguet established itself as a pioneer in the realm of ground breaking watch designs and high horology, introducing notable timepieces such as the iconic Royal Oak and the self-winding perpetual calendar, the Quantième Perpétuel Automatique. Building upon the merits of these two remarkable designs, the brand unveiled its first Royal Oak perpetual calendar in 1983, the reference 5554.

In 1986, the Royal Oak perpetual calendar underwent a captivating transformation with the introduction of the skeletonised dial edition, reference 25636. This rendition showcased a sapphire crystal in place of the dial, enabling a captivating view of the elegant automatic movement 2120/2800. The timepiece was offered in a range of materials, including stainless steel, platinum, two-tone gold, and pink gold. The present example, however, makes a bold statement in yellow gold.

Cartier London, Cintrée 1969.

In the annals of horological history, few timepieces have captured the imagination and epitomized elegance quite like the Cartier Tank Cintrée. In the wake of the First World War, a seismic shift was underway in the world of design. Inspired by the armored vehicles that roamed the battlefields, Louis Cartier conceived the Tank in 1917—a revolutionary timepiece that embodied the spirit of modernity and sophistication. Yet, it was four years later, in 1921, that the Tank Cintrée made its debut, signaling a new chapter in Cartier's storied legacy. The Tank Cintrée was a triumph of form and function, marrying the ergonomic curved case profile of the Tonneau with the sleek lines of the Tank's brancards. This fusion of design elements resulted in a watch that was both timeless and avant-garde, a symbol of Cartier's ability to seamlessly blend tradition with innovation.

Under the creative direction of Jacques Cartier, the Cartier London workshop emerged as a bastion of experimentation and boldness. While Paris and New York held their own in the world of luxury, it was London that pushed the boundaries, daring to challenge the status quo of watchmaking culture. Here, larger case sizes and unconventional designs flourished, defying convention and captivating the imagination of connoisseurs worldwide. In particular with exploring exaggerated forms, this London Cintree exhibits a particularly curved case.

The present watch, a larger iteration of the Tank Cintrée produced in London during the late 1960s, is a testament to this spirit of innovation. Eschewing the traditional railroad minute track, it embraces a dial layout that is at once free-spirited and sophisticated. The exaggerated Roman numerals, strategically placed, evoke a sense of whimsy and elegance, inviting the wearer into a world of timeless sophistication.

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