Collecting Chanel Bags
While every season Chanel introduces new bags, there are classics from past seasons that remain on the lists of most Chanel collectors. At Sotheby's our Buy Now marketplace is the place to shop modern and vintage Chanel bag classics. Browse Chanel double flaps, single flap bags and limited edition bags in leather, tweed and even exotics before 2019. Chanel has been making iconic bags since 1955 when Coco Chanel introduced the first flap bag. Its enduring popularity remains today.
Below we highlight the XX bags we think every collector needs including a few variations on the flap bag.
1 | Beige Caviar Chanel Double Flap
Nothing is more versatile or classic than a Chanel double flap in beige caviar leather. The Chanel double flap remains one of the most popular Chanel bags and a collection is not complete without a Chanel double flap in neutral beige in caviar leather. Caviar leather is scratch resistant so this is a bag you can wear for years to come. The medium size is the perfect to carry essentials but also small enough to carry day to night. The double flap with diamond-stitched quilting (inspired by men’s jackets at the racetrack) and chain strap were revolutionary when Coco Chanel first introduced it in 1955 and remains iconic today.
2 | Vintage Chanel Classic Double Flap in Black Lambskin
The Chanel bag that would ultimately become synonymous with the brand was not created until 1983. The Chanel Classic Double Flap was first introduced when Karl Lagerfeld became creative director and decided to reinterpret Chanel’s iconic 2.55 Flap Bag. From his artistic vision came two new features – a leather woven chain and Double C turn-lock closure. Lagerfeld’s Classic Double Flap was a breakout success. In spring 2021, the Chanel Classic Flap was renamed to the 11.12, in honor of the original Medium Classic Flap’s style code – A01112. The universal wearability and simplicity of the Chanel Classic Double Flap solidifies this handbag as an iconic statement piece. In addition, the Classic Flap comes with an endless range of options, including quilting (the iconic classic vs. the more youthful chevron), leathers, sizes, and hardware combinations. While the Chanel Classic Flap comes in two main variations – single and double – the double flap version has an extra interior flap. This interior flap separates the interior of the handbag from the main exterior flap. Beyond the practicality of the Chanel Double Flap’s multiple pockets to organize one’s daily essentials, a playful anecdote has long been rumored around the history of these compartments – Chanel purse loyalists say that Coco Chanel would hide her love letters in the zip pocket located underneath the handbag’s outer flap. Each Classic Double Flap bag is handcrafted at the Ateliers de Verneuil-en-Halatte, one of Chanel’s prized Metiers d’Art workshops. The artisans at this shop have each trained for a minimum of four years, mastering every technique required to meticulously craft the Chanel Classic Double Flap, a process that takes a total of 15 hours and up to 180 operations. Almost thirty years later, and out of all the Chanel handbags on the market, the Classic Double Flap remains one of the most sought-after pieces ever crafted.
3 | Chanel Graffiti Backpack
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4 | Discontinued Exotic Chanel Mini Flap
Chanel discontinued using exotic animal skins in bags in May 2019. Chanel is no longer making bags using the skin of snakes, crocodiles, alligators, lizards or stringrays.
5 | Chanel Tweed bag
Coco Chanel designed the first Chanel suit in tweed in 1921. These suits were the inspiration for Chanel tweed bags and no collection could be complete without a Chanel tweed bag.
6 | Chanel Perfume Bottle Bag
After debuting in the Chanel Cruise 2014 collection, the plexiglass Perfume Bottle Bag was a sensational hit. Modeled after the iconic Chanel No. 5 Perfume bottle, these unconventional Chanel bags are adored among fashion trendsetters. Sported by the likes of Kim Kardashian and Kris Jenner, this Chanel purse shines in the spotlight. The limited availability of the Perfume Bottle Bag enhances its appeal, as it remains a coveted piece on the resale market. A modern interpretation of Chanel’s most recognizable perfume bottle, this playful conversation piece is a dream evening bag.
7 | Chanel Kelly Bag
Vintage Chanel Kelly bags with the single top handle regularly sell within days of being listed on Sotheby's Buy Now marketplace. The recent reintroduction in 2023 of the Chanel Mini Nano Kelly bag has also increased the demand and popularity of the vintage Chanel Kelly bags from the 1990s. The classic shape and mini size with the front double C is instantly recognizable and always popular with collectors.
8 | Chanel Denim Bag
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