10 Iconic Chanel House Codes Reinterpreted by Karl Lagerfeld

In the mid 1920s, Coco Chanel began to integrate tweed into her designs – a nubby, durable textile that was traditionally used for men’s sportswear and tailoring. Lagerfeld reimagined tweed across a plethora of configurations, including two-piece sets, mid-length jackets and midi dresses, utilising the versatility and comfort of tweed to its full potential.

Form meets function is a common thread linking Coco Chanel’s revolutionary two-toned shoes and Lagerfeld’s elegant two-tone cardigans. Well constructed with pockets for practicality that Mademoiselle Chanel herself would surely have adored, Lagerfeld’s two-toned cardigans are a chic and practical wardrobe staple.

Coco Chanel’s preference for accessorising her outfits with multiple strands of faux pearl costume jewellery remains a vital house code of Chanel. The lustrous costume pearl continues to be used as a form of theatrical ornamentation in Lagerfeld’s designs.

The gold chain is another homage to Coco Chanel’s playful use of costume jewellery, and her deconstruction of conventional garments such as jackets, in which a chain was traditionally sewn along the bottom hem to weigh it down. A single gold chain creates an understated look, whilst thicker layered chains make for the ultimate statement accessory.

Inspiration for the interwoven chain was said to have originated from the keychains used by nuns at Coco Chanel’s Aubazine orphanage. Widely known as the iconic Chanel 2.55 bag chain, Lagerfeld reimagined the interwoven chain on belts, ribbed corsets and jacket trims.

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Though designed by Coco Chanel herself in 1925, it wasn’t until Lagerfeld’s helm that the CC logo became an ubiquitous symbol of modern luxury. Lagerfeld deployed the monogram across the house, most famously on the clasp of the Chanel flap bag as we know it today.

A striking image of Lagerfeld comes to mind – black fingerless leather gloves, a shock of white hair tied in a neat ponytail, dark shades, an impeccable white collared shirt. Whether channelling mystery or paying homage to Coco Chanel’s revolutionary Little Black Dress, Lagerfeld explored the versatility of the colour dichotomy, launching endlessly inventive interpretations of the monochromatic look onto the runway.

A connoisseur of ornamentation, Coco Chanel adopted textile flowers to evoke floral motifs all year around. Likewise, Lagerfeld’s designs often played with three-dimensional depth and materiality, brought to life through the lightness and intricacy of tulle and chiffon appliqué flowers.

Signifying simplicity and purity, the camellia was favoured by Coco Chanel, who first pinned one of the white blooms to her belt in 1913. Lagerfeld affirmed the white camelia as an emblem of the house: a quintessential motif of Chanel brooches, fine jewellery, headpieces, and couture.

Concluding in true Lagerfeld fashion, since the 1980s Chanel haute couture shows have culminated in the highly anticipated Chanel Couture bride finale, a coveted look shown on Lagerfeld’s muse du jour that encapsulates both the stylistic flair and conceptual motifs of the collection. During Lagerfelds tenure, Chanel Couture brides included Claudia Schiffer, Linda Evangelista, Natalia Vodianova, Devon Aoki, Cara Delevingne and Vittoria Ceretti.