Royal & Noble

Royal & Noble

View full screen - View 1 of Lot 257. An embroidered, metal-thread and glass jewel highlighted mitre (Mitra pretiosa), European, 18th/19th century.

Property from the Berkeley Collection at Spetchley Park

An embroidered, metal-thread and glass jewel highlighted mitre (Mitra pretiosa), European, 18th/19th century

Lot Closed

January 18, 06:17 PM GMT

Estimate

1,000 - 2,000 GBP

Lot Details

Description

Property from the Berkeley Collection at Spetchley Park

An embroidered, metal-thread and glass jewel highlighted mitre (Mitra pretiosa), European, 18th/19th century


exuberantly worked with floral and scrollwork design with cream silk lining, one side centered with a silk and metal thread embroidered cartouche with St Catherine of Alexandria, the other side centered with a blue glass cabochon, embroidery sits against a silver ground edged with gilt braid

Approximately 46cm. high, 38cm. at widest; 1ft. ⁶⁄₁₁in. high, 1ft ²⁄₉in. wide

A Mitre (Mitra, Infula) was a headdress for all bishops and was established only during the 11th and 12th centuries. The privilege was accorded by the Pope (who wore a Papal Tiara) to high ranking abbots. The shape changed over time. Originally it was a soft round cap with a pointed crown, then the point disappeared and returned as two stiffened points at the sides, and then they moved to the front and back, as in the present example. The points became taller and taller and changed in shape, swelling outwards towards the apex. Attached to the circular band around the lower edge of the mitre, are two hanging bands (Latin: Infulae, English: lappets), possibly originally intended to tie underneath the chin, otherwise the reason for their presence is not known. Originally in gold white, then by the 13th century decoration was much more elaborate,  with the use of embroidered scenes, and by the 15th century the band and lappets were embellished in gold, pearls, enamels and precious stones. In the Baroque period when gold was heavily used on vestments, the design of the mitres stayed traditional. They were divided into three classes, and worn on different occasions. The Mitra simplex was plain, the Mitra pretiosa was decorated with jewels, and the Mitra aurifrigiata was embroidered (sometimes with gold) but with no jewels. This mitre is a version of the jewelled Mitra pretiosa. As the mitre was an episcopal insignia and not part of a set of Mass vestments, it could be decorated independently and as simply or as richly as requested.