Arts of the Islamic World & India
Arts of the Islamic World & India
A diamond, ruby and emerald-set gold Manga Malai necklace, India, Tamil Nadu, 19th century
Auction Closed
October 23, 01:24 PM GMT
Estimate
40,000 - 60,000 GBP
Lot Details
Description
comprising forty linked mango-shaped elements, each set with a central diamond surrounded by cabochon rubies, surmounted by an emerald and ruby-set flowerhead, the elements with loops on the reverse, on a flexible flat gold chain, with a ruby-set floral section between each element, the gem-set clasp in the form of addorsed birds, an openwork gem-set pendant suspended below in the form of scrolling foliate tendrils around a central diamond and emerald-set flowerhead, fringed with golden beads terminating in small rubies, the reverse plain gold, four elements engraved with inscriptions in Tamil script, in later fitted velvet box
33cm. length (approx.)
378 g.
Acquired from Spink, London, circa 2000.
Private Collection, UK.
The manga malai (garland of mangoes) necklace is unique to South India and was traditionally worn for special occasions such as weddings and by Bharatanatyam dancers during performances. Inspired by nature, the necklace is composed of interlinked gem-set mango-shaped elements and floral motifs. The mango is regarded as a symbol of love and fertility in Hindu mythology. The design of this necklace has its origins in the Chola period and earlier, with bronze and stone sculptures displaying strands of similar gem-encrusted necklaces. In its traditional form, the necklace would extend down to the waist of the wearer.
The necklace demonstrates the South Indian preference for gold ornaments set with cabochon rubies. Large ornaments such as this are made using the kundala-velai technique, using a lac-filled sheet of gold, with the back polished to a smooth finish.
A closely comparable necklace in a private collection, also dating to the nineteenth century, is illustrated in Krishnan and Kumar 2010, plate 230, pp.159-60. A further example is in the Khalili Collection in London (JLY 1261), published in Carvalho 2010, no.104, pp.194-5. Three similar necklaces were sold in these rooms, 5 October 2010, lot 102; 8 October 2014, lot 302, and 23 October 2019, lot 242.
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